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carol_maurin1

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Posts posted by carol_maurin1

    hassy and macro with bellows

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    new to MF macro. Found a used, in ex condition, bellows with a 135mm

    f/5.6 S-Planar. It says on the barrel synchro compur. Didn't come

    with any sync cords. Think this needs 2 syncs. However, do I need

    the bellows with a lens. I have 150, 100 and 60. This may be an

    added cost that I don't require. Would appreciate thoughts. I have

    a 503 CW and 500 CM. Don't know if that matters. Thanks

    carol

    xtol - thin negs

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    followup: Mixed a new batch of XTOL. Noticed that it was Solution A

    that does not dissolve well. Kodak, upon calling, said to mix

    slowly. Add water, add powder gradually. This didn't get EVERYTHING

    dissolved. I heated up the mixture. Not until I got to almost 100

    deg did I get it to ALMOST completely dissolved. I added 'slowly'

    solution B. Ran a strip from 35mm TRI X, 1:1, 6 min (according to

    their charts), in my JOBO. Very nice contrast; very nice negs. In

    thinking back to all the times I've mixed XTOL, mixing to completion

    has always been a problem. I suspect, I had too much undissolved

    and, hence, the thin, unusable results. We'll see how the 120 (ISO

    320) turns out. Shouldn't make any difference.

    carol

    xtol - thin negs

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    I've been using XTol with fairly good results, but always a bit thinner than HC 110. Today Using TRI-x 320 (120), 1:1 Rotary, 7.5, 8 and 10 min, no-prewet (as recommended by JOBO), all were way too thin. On half the roll of the 10 min roll, I processed using HC110. Gorgeous. Therefore, I knew they were properly exposed. I'm assuming the XTOL is the problem. All else remained the same. The above 2 tests were done with 2 different batches of XTOL. I have used it frequently in the recent past I've noticed my negs were thinner than desired. Any suggestions. Tues I'll call Kodak, but for now this is very disconcerting because most of my stuff is portraiture and I enjoy the low grain. thanks for any help carol

    trouble with XTOL

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    I've been using XTol with fairly good results, but always a bit thinner than HC 110. Today Using TRI-x 320 (120), 1:1 Rotary, 7.5, 8 and 10 min, no-prewet (as recommended by JOBO), all were way too thin. On half the roll of the 10 min roll, I processed using HC110. Gorgeous. Therefore, I knew they were properly exposed. I'm assuming the XTOL is the problem. All else remained the same. The above 2 tests were done with 2 different batches of XTOL. I have used it frequently in the recent past I've noticed my negs were thinner than desired. Any suggestions. Tues I'll call Kodak, but for now this is very disconcerting because most of my stuff is portraiture and I enjoy the low grain. thanks for any help

    carol

    Flash bracket for Hasselblad

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    I have the same setup. I just got the JUSTRITE bracket. Flash over the lens, which is a superior setup. www.justritebracket.com or (248) 777-0592. Gary is a rare gem. He is the maker and designer of these brackets. He's extremely helpful. It is easy to hold and sturdy. I also use it for my 35mm setup. Because of his quick release plates and quick shoe bracket, making the transition in the middle of a shoot is a breeze.

    hope this helps

    carol

    maine workshops

    in Portraits & Fashion

    Posted

    For anyone thinking about taking the Maine Workshop, think again. Although these things are always teacher specific, the owner/director has not responded to anyone's dissatisfaction concerning the class we took this past summer. I pass this on in order to help avoid the wasting of large sums of money. If you are interested, email me and I will further explain.

    Extreme grain in prints

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    I used TRI X (400) for all my portraiture work. TXP when using MF. I

    expose at 200. I use HC110 solB. 15-20% reduction in time. 68 deg.

    The 11x14 enlargements have minimal grain. Even the 16x20's are good.

    Of course, everyone sees differently, but I don't like large grain for

    my portraiture work so that is something I have worked hard to reduce.

    Carol

    darkroom workshops

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    Looking for a high quality workshop with references. I only want references because I took a workshop (2 weeks) at the Maine Workshops this past summer that I wasted (15 others as well) about $3000. I'm interested in advanced darkroom. Thanks for input

    carol

    decreasing grain using TRI X

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    For my portrait work, I use TRI X (400 or 320(MF)). I meter my studio at 200. I use HC110 (B) solution, although I double the dilution and time. (1:14, 12min 45sec) I got the times out of Anshell's book. It was 7.5, doubled would be 15 min. I deduct 15% for rotary (JOBO) processing. I mix everything with distilled water. I don't use Stop bath, but a water bath for 30 sec. Fix for 5 minutes, rinse for 2, hypo for 2, wash for 5, edwal wetting agent is the final step. My prints for either 11x14 or 16x20. (8x10's are fine). In fact, the grain is not so bad, but there are times when I would prefer smaller or less grain. I would appreciate any advise. I'm hesitant to use Xtol, although I have, but so-so results. thanks for any help.

    carol

    bluish green cast to negatives

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    Was wondering if anyone who uses TF-4 Fixer from the Photography Formulary has experienced bluish green negatives? It doesn't seem to effect printing. Has happened using freshly mixed chemicals so it was not exhausted. Also was wondering if you have found using a alkaline base preferable? thanks

    carol

    alkaline vs. non-alkaline

    in Portraits & Fashion

    Posted

    I'm trying to figure out- in simple terms - if I should use the fix from the Formulary (non-alkaline?) for film and/paper. I hear things like emulsion swelling and other negative ideas associated with what appears to be standard fix (such as Kodak rapid fixer). I like using the PF TF-44 (I think that's it) because it eliminates stop (use water instead) and hypo (saves time). But the bottom line is I want the best negs and prints I can make. I would appreciate input. thanks

    carol

    question for PMK users

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    Did my first PMK development today and wanted some feedback. Since I have never seen negs from PMK before, they have a greenish brown stain. Haven't printed them yet. They look nice with good detail. Here's what I did:

     

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    Ilford 5+ (120) processed in JOBO CPA2+. I used the small tank filled it with 500 ml of stock. Mixed 10 ml of A, 20 ml of B with 1000 ml of distilled water. At 70 deg I processed them for 11 minutes. Did a 1 minute water stop bath; 5 min TF-4 fix; 2 min bath in the used developer and a 20 min water rinse. 20 sec in photo flo. Hung to dry.

     

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    Would appreciate any suggestions other PMK users might have. Also have a roll of Plusx 120. Can't find any development times for that. Has anyone used this for their portraiture work? I use Trix and Plus for that. How much developer would one use for the large JOBO tank. The one that holds 6 rolls of 35mm? I know I need to get Gordon's book, but until I do �..well thanks

     

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    carol

    PMK

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    First time PMK film (in liquid form) developer user. After I got it I read somewhere that it is fairly toxic. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated. The Formulary included a paper about 2 other products that sounded interesting: DiXactol Film developer and ABC Pyro Plus film developer. Looking for feedback from users. thanks

    carol

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