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jamespjones

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Posts posted by jamespjones

  1. I would buy at Yodobashi Camera in Japan - they buy in such bulk that they usually beat Bic

    camera. Be aware that you can bargain often times on price - especially in Akihabara.

    Memory prices in Akihabara are also very good but Hong Kong may beat them. Ask the store

    clerks if they can do duty free. The places with big duty free signs are overpriced. If you are

    looking second hand - go to the Ginza. Lots of second hand shops.<br><br>

    James<br>

    <a href="http://www.photographyri.com">photographyri.com</a>

  2. If you understand shutter flash sync you can ignore me. Although I have a Canon 650

    EOS, I haven't had this problem but - years ago I did have this problem with my K1000 -

    and I didn't understand the concept of shuttersync. If you have a shutterspeed that is too

    fast (125/sec+) on the EOS and you use a flash you will have a half exposed frame

    because the shutter is moving too fast to properly expose the whole frame with the flash.

    Try changing the shutter speed to 125 or lower. If that doesn't work I suppose you have

    the type of problem listed above. http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?

    msg_id=00HLSY

    <br><br>

    I am sympathetic to your situation because the only photo I have of my grandfather that I

    took is half exposed. You can see it at <a href="http://www.photographyri.com/

    index.php?blog=5&page=1&disp=posts&paged=2">http://www.photographyri.com/

    index.php?blog=5&page=1&disp=posts&paged=2</a> listed on the 29th under

    "immortal beloved."

    <br><br>

    You can try to see if you can scan the negative and overexpose the darker portion to

    capture the information (if it was indeed a shutterspeed issue). I haven't had too much

    luck this way but it will depend of the exposure of the negative.

    <br><br>

    James<br>

    <a href="http://www.photographyri.com">photographyri.com</a>

  3. With regard to the specifics - I have a pretty limited gallery up at the moment, but for each of

    the pictures in the gallery the film/camera info is listed - it's a mix of 35mm and MF. <a

    href="http://www.photographyri.com">www.photographyri.com</a>

     

    All the film has been scanned in the v750 and probably cleaned in PS, but it gives you an

    idea. I'll try to put up other scans over the course of the next week or so.

  4. I don't know if it can be used at any time - simply because I haven't tried it at all DPI. I can

    say that when "film holders" is selected and thumbnails on or off you can get the high

    resolutions lens at 2400 DPI. In this particular case I was using the auto thumbnail option

    with the "film holders" option for the sharp image at 2400DPI and "film area guide" for the

    less sharp image at 2400DPI. I didn't move the holders or reload the film, just two scans

    in a row. Until the software was updated (or unless I missed it in the original release I had)

    you weren't able to hand select the scan area without using "film area guide" thus hand

    cropped photos were by default lower res. However, I updated my software and noticed

    the thumbnails check box, turned it off with the "film holders option" on and cropped the

    same slide and got the full resolution.

     

    It may have been the case that you didn't engage the high res lens with hand cropping

    until you reached the 6400DPI threshold with the originally shipped software, but it is not

    the case now. I believe it always used the better lens when you allowed auto thumbnails -

    even with the original software. One of the key things to note is that I am using the Epson

    software and not the SilverFast. I never got SilverFast to do exactly what I wanted because

    it didn't seem to engage the high res lens when I wanted it to.

     

    In other words, with the newest Epson software, you can use the "film holders" options

    turn off auto thumbnails and hand select your scan area at 2400DPI and engage the higher

    resolution lens. I may have not noticed this option in the original software; but I just don't

    think it was an option (I got my scanner in June). So, you can get high quality scans

    without being 6400 DPI on a hand select. I believe that the high res lens was always being

    used on auto thumbnailed images. This may have lead to problems with people using

    charts to compare quality if they didn't have the higher res lens engaged (which you

    wouldn't know unless you were aware of the two lenses) because I don't think the hand

    selected scans used the higher quality lens until recently (via the software update).

     

    Camera Hasselblad 500C/M, T* 80mm Planar lens, Fuji 120 film - probably Astia. Colors

    unedited from scans.

  5. I've been using the v750 for a couple of months and I just put up a blog entry regarding

    my results. I've found it to be an excellent machine overall but like everyone else I am not

    a fan of the supplied film holders. I've compared a scan from the Nikon 9000 to a scan

    from the Epson. The Nikon image has been sharpened in the Nikon scan software, and it

    is a much higher res scan (4800 16x oversampled vs. 2400 on the Epson). I just don't

    have the patience or access to do a true 1 to 1 comparison. The results are my daily use

    results - with the Nikon I pushed for the best possible (USM, DeIce, Oversampling) - with

    the Epson I go for what I need (2400 dpi, 48 bit color, no-deice, PS USM, custom color

    profile). The scanning time was about 30 minutes on the Nikon (roughly 480MB file

    resulting) and the epson took about 2 minutes (120MB file). Check it out if you're curious.

     

    <a href="http://www.photographyri.com">www.photographyri.com</a>

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