jamespjones
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Posts posted by jamespjones
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If you understand shutter flash sync you can ignore me. Although I have a Canon 650
EOS, I haven't had this problem but - years ago I did have this problem with my K1000 -
and I didn't understand the concept of shuttersync. If you have a shutterspeed that is too
fast (125/sec+) on the EOS and you use a flash you will have a half exposed frame
because the shutter is moving too fast to properly expose the whole frame with the flash.
Try changing the shutter speed to 125 or lower. If that doesn't work I suppose you have
the type of problem listed above. http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?
msg_id=00HLSY
<br><br>
I am sympathetic to your situation because the only photo I have of my grandfather that I
took is half exposed. You can see it at <a href="http://www.photographyri.com/
index.php?blog=5&page=1&disp=posts&paged=2">http://www.photographyri.com/
index.php?blog=5&page=1&disp=posts&paged=2</a> listed on the 29th under
"immortal beloved."
<br><br>
You can try to see if you can scan the negative and overexpose the darker portion to
capture the information (if it was indeed a shutterspeed issue). I haven't had too much
luck this way but it will depend of the exposure of the negative.
<br><br>
James<br>
<a href="http://www.photographyri.com">photographyri.com</a>
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That is interesting. Is it possible for you to post the scans? I just did a quick check and I
didn't notice an irregularity. I wonder what may be causing it.
<br><br>
James<br>
<a href="http://www.photographyri.com">photographyri.com</a>
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With regard to the specifics - I have a pretty limited gallery up at the moment, but for each of
the pictures in the gallery the film/camera info is listed - it's a mix of 35mm and MF. <a
href="http://www.photographyri.com">www.photographyri.com</a>
All the film has been scanned in the v750 and probably cleaned in PS, but it gives you an
idea. I'll try to put up other scans over the course of the next week or so.
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I don't know if it can be used at any time - simply because I haven't tried it at all DPI. I can
say that when "film holders" is selected and thumbnails on or off you can get the high
resolutions lens at 2400 DPI. In this particular case I was using the auto thumbnail option
with the "film holders" option for the sharp image at 2400DPI and "film area guide" for the
less sharp image at 2400DPI. I didn't move the holders or reload the film, just two scans
in a row. Until the software was updated (or unless I missed it in the original release I had)
you weren't able to hand select the scan area without using "film area guide" thus hand
cropped photos were by default lower res. However, I updated my software and noticed
the thumbnails check box, turned it off with the "film holders option" on and cropped the
same slide and got the full resolution.
It may have been the case that you didn't engage the high res lens with hand cropping
until you reached the 6400DPI threshold with the originally shipped software, but it is not
the case now. I believe it always used the better lens when you allowed auto thumbnails -
even with the original software. One of the key things to note is that I am using the Epson
software and not the SilverFast. I never got SilverFast to do exactly what I wanted because
it didn't seem to engage the high res lens when I wanted it to.
In other words, with the newest Epson software, you can use the "film holders" options
turn off auto thumbnails and hand select your scan area at 2400DPI and engage the higher
resolution lens. I may have not noticed this option in the original software; but I just don't
think it was an option (I got my scanner in June). So, you can get high quality scans
without being 6400 DPI on a hand select. I believe that the high res lens was always being
used on auto thumbnailed images. This may have lead to problems with people using
charts to compare quality if they didn't have the higher res lens engaged (which you
wouldn't know unless you were aware of the two lenses) because I don't think the hand
selected scans used the higher quality lens until recently (via the software update).
Camera Hasselblad 500C/M, T* 80mm Planar lens, Fuji 120 film - probably Astia. Colors
unedited from scans.
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I've been using the v750 for a couple of months and I just put up a blog entry regarding
my results. I've found it to be an excellent machine overall but like everyone else I am not
a fan of the supplied film holders. I've compared a scan from the Nikon 9000 to a scan
from the Epson. The Nikon image has been sharpened in the Nikon scan software, and it
is a much higher res scan (4800 16x oversampled vs. 2400 on the Epson). I just don't
have the patience or access to do a true 1 to 1 comparison. The results are my daily use
results - with the Nikon I pushed for the best possible (USM, DeIce, Oversampling) - with
the Epson I go for what I need (2400 dpi, 48 bit color, no-deice, PS USM, custom color
profile). The scanning time was about 30 minutes on the Nikon (roughly 480MB file
resulting) and the epson took about 2 minutes (120MB file). Check it out if you're curious.
<a href="http://www.photographyri.com">www.photographyri.com</a>
Canon D400 / Digital Rebel XTi - Buy in Tokyo or Hong Kong?
in Mirrorless Digital Cameras
Posted
I would buy at Yodobashi Camera in Japan - they buy in such bulk that they usually beat Bic
camera. Be aware that you can bargain often times on price - especially in Akihabara.
Memory prices in Akihabara are also very good but Hong Kong may beat them. Ask the store
clerks if they can do duty free. The places with big duty free signs are overpriced. If you are
looking second hand - go to the Ginza. Lots of second hand shops.<br><br>
James<br>
<a href="http://www.photographyri.com">photographyri.com</a>