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cian_perez

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Posts posted by cian_perez

  1. <p>I picked up my camera and lens from International Camera earlier in the week. It didn't take this long to fix (one month). It's just that it took me this long to find time to get back into the city to retrieve it.<br>

    I did speak to them when they called to followup and convey that they were done with the lens repair (approximately a week after I dropped the camera off), and they said they would CLA the body for free since they had it on the bench with the lens. (I forgot to mention prior that they requested to keep the body as well to make sure it wasn't a problem on my RZ67 Pro II.) They do all their own repairs in-house. They don't farm it out. They even do repairs on digital bodies.<br>

    Anyway, the shutter on my 110/2.8 does open and close as expected now. I haven't put any film through it yet, but visually everything is functioning as it should. So far so good.</p>

  2. <p>Just an update. I dropped off the lens at International Camera in downtown Chicago. They had a few endorsements in this forum. The quote to repair was $178. My lens was still very minty. Given a replacement used lens is nearly twice the cost, I'll opt for the repair.</p>
  3. <p>Thanks gentlemen. I live near Chicago, and from a quick search on the web there appears to be a few reputable repair facilities here. Not surprising, given the size of the population as well as the number of serious/professional photographers in the area. Also, I already have a few contacts to pursue based on past threads here. I'll report back on what I find.</p>
  4. <p>A bad shutter assembly? I was afraid of that. I was aware of all those other points you made, so the bad shutter is starting to be the obvious culprit.</p>

    <p>I'll see how much local a reputable facility will charge for the repair. I can visibly see the shutter blades and they do not appear misaligned or mangled, so hopefully they're simply "stuck".</p>

    <p>Thank you, Marc. </p>

  5. <p>Hello gang -</p>

    <p>Hoping you could help me with a problem I'm having with my 110mm/f2.8 W RZ67 lens. I am using the lens on a RZ Pro II. I am just now getting acquainted with this body and lenses (bought it over a year ago). I have read the RZ Pro II manual as well as many of the troubleshooting threads here. I even have Bob Shell's Mamiya book and have read the appropriate sections in there as well.</p>

    <p>I have three lenses:<br>

    > 65mm/f4 K/L L RB<br>

    > 110mm/f2.8 W RZ<br>

    > 180mm/f4.5 W-N RZ</p>

    <p>The 65mm RB and 180mm RZ lenses are functioning properly. I can see through the WLF, focus, and trigger the mirror/shutter successfully in M mode at various shutter speeds and apertures. The camera itself also seems to behave as expected with the warning lights (more on this later) when a condition presents itself to not allow the release of the mirror.</p>

    <p>My problem is with the 110mm lens. The shutter blades seem to be stuck in the closed position. At first, I thought this may have been a battery issue, but the 180mm lens functions as expected on the Pro II body. I then tried to use the 110mm lens in the emergency (fixed 1/400th shutter) mode, but no luck. The blades are still closed. From viewing through the back of the lens, I can activate the DOF preview just fine. I have cocked and released the lens manually multiple times but the shutter blades still won't open.</p>

    <p>Concerning the battery - It seems strong enough to allow the lights to function on the Pro II body but I cannot hear any beeping. Is it supposed to beep? I have some new batteries on order, but again, the shutter blades on the 110mm lens are still fully shut when installed or detached from the camera body so a battery issue may not be the culprit.</p>

    <p>I tried holding the lens alone with the shutter trigger release button/nib pushed down and giving it light taps/bumps but that didn't work either. Anything else I can try on the lens itself to release the blades?</p>

    <p>Thanks!</p>

  6. <p>In support of William's response, the mirror/baffle inside the camera body doesn't move any faster based on the shutter speed selection. The shutter inside the lens, however, will adjust accordingly.</p>
  7. <p>Here's what I know from being a one month RZII owner.<br>

    I've been a film shooter for a while (since late 90s), but have always been interested in MF. The one MF camera that I used to drool for was the Fuji GX680III which came off the market a few years back. It had bellows focusing and T&S capabilities (mimicing LF), and just looked downright cool, but it was expensive. Ten year time warp forward... On a fluke from a FS ad I saw here, I chose to look into the Mamiya RZ medium format system. WOW! That stuff is CHEAP on the used market! Especially when it can be purchased still new today for $$$. And it has some of the features of the Fuji (bellows focusing) that I recalled being enamored by with MF in the past. Researching further, I became intrigued, and wondered why I wasn't aware of the Mamiya RB/RZ cameras before.<br>

    The Mamiya RB and RZ series do have rotating backs. Hence, the "RB" name (the RZ is the later models). The RB is fully mechanical, but the RZ has electronically controlled shutters (and, thus, needs a battery). You can use RB lenses on an RZ body but not vice versa. Since there seems to be a large following, Mamiya still supports both versions. You can still buy RB bodies and lenses new as well as equivalent RZ bodies and lenses. The latest version of the RZ is the RZII "D", which works natively with Mamiya's digital back. The earlier RZ and RZII bodies will work with aftermarket digital backs.<br>

    Anyway, I ended up buying a fairly complete Mamiya RZII kit from a hobbiest here just a few weeks back through the classifieds. (Again, I was stunned as to how cheaply these can be had on the used market.) I have been reading up and familiarizing myself with the system (even before purchasing of course). I have a full arsenal of Canon EOS gear, but I am still impressed with the Mamiya, especially given the modular nature of the system and the many available lenses and accessories, and the rotating back is pretty cool too. <br>

    HTH.</p>

  8. <blockquote>

    <p>(a) You might consider getting the special Mamiya electromagnetic release if you're only using it on the RZ, but it's pretty expensive if you're buying new.</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>I have considered that originally, but I normally prefire the mirror. Also, there is one KL lens in the kit. The electromagnetic release for the RZ will not fire the KL lens, correct?</p>

     

  9. <p>Hey Gang -<br>

    I'll be joining the MF ranks soon. Got a second-hand Mamiya RZII kit inbound. I'm pretty excited, since I very much still enjoy the film experience and have always been drawn to the mystique of larger formats. I figure the handling and ergonomics on the RZ will be dramatically different vs the 35mm world I'm used to, but this is something I look forward to.<br>

    My questions are concerning cable releases. I typically use one with my 35mm/DSLR gear, since I primarily shoot landscapes on a tripod.<br>

    Are there any "darlings" among the available cable releases? <br>

    Any ones to avoid?<br>

    Is there a particular length that works well for this subject matter and how one interacts with the RZ on a tripod with a WLF or prism finder?<br>

    I'm envisioning the 12" length may be a tad short and the 40" seems it will get caught on things, so is a 20" length pretty popular? Or am I being foolish in asking and simply should go find out on my own via trial and error?<br>

    Any qualms with the following two offerings from our sponsor?<br>

    http://www.adorama.com/CZCRP20.html<br>

    http://www.adorama.com/CZCRSP20.html<br>

    Thanks!</p>

    <p> </p>

  10. <p>Thanks Bruce and gang. I'm pretty excited. I've committed to purchasing an RZ67II kit from a hobbiest. </p>

    <p>It will come with three lenses, but one of them is the RB (KL) version of the 65mm. From what I can tell, this lens has a manually adjusted floating element even though it does not have the "L-A" designation. Adorama's website explains, "It incorporates an adjustable floating element system for correction of edge sharpness and distortion, especially at wide open apertures and close distances."</p>

     

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