david_windsor
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Posts posted by david_windsor
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I found the workaround. Its in the second page of the settings dialoge, Under 'shutter lock'. It must be set to 'off;no lens'
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I just tried making myself a pinhoe bodycap, but when I got it on the camera, my
hopes were dashed by a 'no lens attached' error...
Ive seen images taken with a sony a-100 that were supposedly pinholed, but I
cant figure it out, any advice is appreciated!
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Could someone please tell me the exact dimensions of this sensor type? I cant
find it online anywhere, or an explanation of what 1/1.6 means... is that
dimension/dimension? or a ratio?
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some Sony reviews I've read talk about DRO, but none at all mention whether or
not that function is worth it... Is it a destructive feature where quality of
image is concerned?
More specifically, is it just a process of pulling the levels around (as one
would do in photoshop) or is it doing something different to manage more detail
in shadow area?
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anyone here know the math for calculating what a given hole diameter will be in
f-stop? I want to know so that I have a jumping off point when I start building
my pinhole lens.
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My advice, go with the consumer level cameras first... The xt kit lens is shite, and it will cost you just about the cost of the camera to get a good one. Meanwhile the fujifilm is built specific to that camera and chances are you will get good results when you take carefull considerations in design. A company would be hard pressed to sell a camera without interchangable lens if the lens was crap.
If you dont wanna limit yourself, I recomend getting a film camera. For 200$ you can get what ammounts to a 21 megapixel camera (scan your negatives) and a lens that would cost you close to a thousand dollars digital/new.
Too many people feel the need to go entirely digital. If you wanna turn pro, then you shouldnt be afraid to use film. Much more resolution can hit a negative than can hit a CCD or CMOS sensor. and the equipment is likely going to cost you 1/10th the price.
Oh, and someone asked about the s9000 write speed... Its fairly decent at about 1-1.5 seconds for a raw file.
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Thats what their called? a mouse? Do they slave trigger?
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They are amazingly cheap, and I was hoping I could use them in a large array. My
teachers have always told me that any light is good, depending on how you
control it after it comes out of the source... I was wondering if these things
can be plugged into any light socket, how strong they are, do they have a built
in slave, ect ect... Please, Anyone who can say anything about them (that isnt
'go get a proper flash setup) please tell me.
Looking for usefull comments, kind regards,
David Windsor
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I think that the best advice give in this thread has been: Put the images back up on your site, and if she wants to take legal actions against you, thats when your matter will be resolved...Untill the first photographer wants to pay to file a subpeona, you should do your own thing and ignore her.
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Im going to have to disagree with the people who have posted above me...
Granted you didnt get a contract... This isnt a good idea because it causes these 'angry moments', but insofar as it is beneficial to her, its also her downfall.
Technically its the creator of a work that holds the copyrights, (and no they donot need to be registered in order to be established) and withought a contract that says you've signed over the photos rights to her, she is in theory stealing from you.
no places in the world are more strict about photography than quebec and france (I happen to be native to quebec), and you cannot publish the image of another person withought their consent... However, regardless of their appearing in a photo, the owner is (always) the person who created it.
Does the 'theif' have high resolution files? The negatives? If you can prove that you took those photos, you dont even need a lawyer... Write her a letter saying that she has infringed your copyright and conducted herself deviously. At the very least, you can publish them on your own website afterwards.
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I already bought the camera, didnt know GN meant glass.... :P got any ideas? would scuffing it reduce sharpness?
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Im geting a holga with a glass lens.... Would scuffing its surface reduce
overall sharpness? Im not so interested in having the sharp quality... I will
definately shoot a rool before I apply the scuffing, but am curious regardless!
Perhaps acetate could be put in front of the lens, and I could scuff that?
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I tend to avoid shooting in raw provided im at a location where im not in complete control over when the images will present themselfs...
at a wedding you never know when someones going to kiss someone else, when someone will cry, or when a drunkard will groap the bride. Id hate to have a card full to the brim when something truely incredible happens.
The small size and faster shooting I get with my cameras jpeg's make me shoot in jpeg mode unless im in a studio type setting.
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so your telling me any 4x5 120 roll film back will mount in a graflok?
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sorry, I wasnt clear... Im looking to ebay a 120 roll film holder, but I have no way of knowing what sort of pack will mount the graflok back... they all dont specifically say 'will fit a graflok'.
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How can I tell if a 120 roll film holder will mount into a graflok back?
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what are the formulea I need to figure out the 35mm equiv. focal length on my
4x5 camera?
also, Is it true that with a large format camera, minimum focusing distance is
limited only by how far out you can extend the bellows?
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I have a 500watt halogen lamp and it gives great diffused light when I put it
outside the window.
What I wanna know is what material can you use as a reflector that wont
melt/burn at high temperatures? Something white and prefereably non reflective.
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were you using an in camera spot meter? sometimes (ISO100, f/16, 1/2000) gets read but what it actually says is (ISO100, f/16, 10/2000) meaning 1/200. The only way I can see the photo your describing having happened (flash excluded) is if you were using a long lens, and just happened to shoot from an angle that put heavy closed shade in behind your model. In that case f16 at 200th might give you a very dark background.
Otherwise you can try using a flash unit... But remember, on camera flash is ugly.
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HM... all it takes really to make a strong composition is to look at the subject of your image, and find the most interesting angle from which to capture it. Repetition, ballance, shapes and symmetry/asymetry are among the tools that help us to find these 'interesting angles'
Sometimes all it takes to find an interesting angle for a scene is to change the eye level... people see things from eye level their whole lives and showing them something new can arouse curiosity.
http://www.photo.net/photo/4239801
http://www.photo.net/photo/4797318
both those images youve captured shows us good composition, so dont let someone tell you that you have no eye for it. that bieng said, its time to tear you a new one.
http://www.photo.net/photo/4797322 this photo is of such poor composition that it hurts your gallery. The use of a wide angle lens should never be employed simply as a means of capturing a larger angle of view. The ONLY time a wide angle lens is effective when used as a tool to exagerate elements in the foreground or background (perspective). Youve done that very well in
[ http://www.photo.net/photo/4985022 ] that photo When you want to get more of the scene photogrpahed, the proper (nicer technique) is panorama.
dont be so bummed when someone judges your work... Some people are just to arrogant to be nice. My black and white teacher for example... the most arrogant basterd you ever will meet in your life... His work is inffallable and all other printers are incompotant... at least thats what he sais about the subject... but if you listen to him when hes chewing you a new asshole, you will learn to print a very very impressive photograph.
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1) is it important to keep mixed chemistry in light proof bottles? (fix and d76)
2) Does d76 and film fix keep in powder form after the bag has been opened.
Could I mix half a bag and then tuck the unused powder away for later use?
a-100 pinhole bodycap
in Sony/Minolta
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Will do rich, but I think I might be re-doing the 'lens'. I tried using a heated thumbtack in order to get the roundest hole possible, and when I tried to press it through the body cap, I only then realized that the thumbtacks plastic had also melted. Finally; my pinhole is 'less than round'.
For my next try, I will get some contact cement, and make the pinhole using a sewing needle and some sandpaper into the aluminum of a Pepsi can. This way, I can glue it over where my already to big one is.
For now, the images just seem out of focus, and according to my in camera meter, the pinhole is only ~f22