jpthurston
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Posts posted by jpthurston
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<p>Oddly enough with the latest state o the art 36Mpxl Nikon D800 you are seeking to teach it a very old manual camera trick that the film era Hasselbald V-series excelled at.<br />1.Take external meter reading to get an EV value at some shutter and aperture combination, whatever you want.<br />2 Dial that EV value into the (Hasselblad) lens.<br />3. Lock in that EV and with both the shutter ring and aperture rings (Hsselbald) in synch so that same EV value is obtained by cycling thru the various shutter/aperture combinations that achieve the desired EV value. <br />4. Buy a Hasselblad V-series camera and your wishes will come true.</p>
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<p>Seriously now, I dont think John Kennedy's challenge of putting a man on the Moon also ever included training the astronauts for family self timer portraits on the surface! :)</p>
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<p>Try Bestine Solvent. Used in Graphic arts applications, available at Arts Supply stores. Test first no matte what you use.</p>
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<p>Only 4 GB of RAM is a BIG problem to begin with as Photoshop CS5 on my iMac takes up over 2GB just for the app. <br /><br />I am using a very old 24" 3GB iMac and just got a Canon 5D MkIII, and its full res 22Mpxl RAW files can be over 30MB each and it comes to a grinding halt when digesting/processing/off loading from cards. I do use a FW400 CF card reader and that helps some.<br />Max out your RAM, hopefully to 16 or 32GB.</p>
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<p>Who uses AWB on any manufacturer's camera? <br />That is the "Good Luck" setting on cameras. </p>
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<p>Traveling in SE Asia with a RB67? Perfect place to hire an elephant to carry that tank along for the ride.<br />It's been done before, but a Mamiya 7II Rangefinder would be a dream camera to use instead of that RB travel nightmare!<br />Good luck. </p>
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<p>Steve jobs notoriously hated fans and the perceptible hum/whine noises that most Wintel machines make. <br /><br />My iMac is on all the time and only until this summer's heat wave in Southern California (102°-112°...unbelievable for here) did I ever experience an above normal range of heat dissipation problem, which actually gave me freaky screen effects from the overheated GPU and Video Card. <br /><br />Solution: There are a variety of apps available that can raise the speed of the 3 internal fans on a Intel-iMac, and can be set to any speed and internal temperature you desire with a corresponding increase in the noise of the fans from inaudible to annoying. <br /><br />Beware, the first time you crank them up, accumulated silicon dust bunnies come flying out! I have been using this one for 2 months now with absolutely no damage to the iMac and it can be reset to the default fan settings anytime. <br /><br />http://www.derman.com/iMac-Fan-Control</p>
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<p>Kodak is only selling the junk Consumer films like Gold and the photo kiosks, not their Professional Films division.<br />Film will be around for quite awhile and is affected more by the price of silver.</p>
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<p>Got a similar problem with a 6 year old iMac...the video card is on the ritz with erratic screen rendering when it seems to warm up. Alos looking at new/refurb with 16GB vs 3GB!<br />First things first at least update to 10.6 to eliminate the video problems perhaps.<br />Disk Warrior dont know about. There are some equally good free utilities to try first on the HD.<br />If all else fails, money solves everything! Get a new one.</p>
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<p>In camera B&W is just a JPEG setting so you lose right off the bat. Forget that idea or just use a cheap P&S.<br />You could always pony up for a Leica M9Monochrome Digital camera and produce real B&W only DNG files and learn how to shoot B&W with filters and everything all over again!</p>
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Lesson to be learned: Never listen to neighbor's advice, regardless of product.
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<p>Apple's lack of 5dIII raw support in OS has everything to do with half the posters' problems...grayed out icons in Finder and no previews, no support for Aperture...why OP is having a problem installing ACR is a mystery? Operator error? All OS updates and Adobe updates installed?...hard to tell without being there.</p>
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<p>Unfortunately the problem lies with Apple's MAC OS X...any flavor of Critter, Snow Leopard or Lion, as the necessary resources to read the latest .CR2 and .jpg generated by a variety of new (bleeding edge) cameras are not built in into the Operating System yet, and Apple has not released an incremental update to support the 5DMKIII and others yet.<br>
Serious flaw in their OS-level implementation of being able to keep up with new cameras. No simple plugins, it has to be an OS update.<br>
Don't believe me? Here is your proof:<br>
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT4757<br /><br />Call Apple Support and complain, or scour the support page but i found this by typing "Camera RAW support". </p>
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<p>One Word: iMac Build to Order...well 4 words.<br /><br />Why? Max Ram capability 16GB vs 8GB on Mini.<br /><br />CS3??...Upgrade quick. Why waste your time with it and use superior, and memory hungry, CS5 and LR4 </p>
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<p>My suggestions:<br />Either reposition your umbrella, and/or use a larger diffuser of some sort, as the obvious catchlight and reflection of your lighting umbrella in the Eggplant is distracting, unatttractive and needs to be removed in post-processing. <br />Perhaps ditch the umbrella and use your flash bounced against a card into the scene with your other diffused flash as fill in. "Aubergine avec un parapluie" isn't on the menu I presume.<br /><br />Take along a Mister-bottle and or glycerine to add a little sparkle to the food items that should...that lime looks dead.<br /><br />Checkout Food Arts magazine for good food shot styling: Shallow depth of field/heavy blur to non essential items, close cropped, rich color saturations, even and non-obvious lighting.<br /><br />Good Luck and make sure its fun too! </p>
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<p>Lots of comparisons of scanned res, MTF and other techie issues...That I do not pretend to know a lot about.<br /><br />Strictly from the dimension driven math of this comparison, I figure a 96Mpxl sensor would be the right physical dimensions for a Full Frame 6x9 image area.<br /><br />How is that you say?...MF digital backs today have a pixel pitch of about 7 microns (.007mm). The 6X9 image area is 84mm X 56mm, that comes out to 12,000 pixels X 8,000 pixels = 96 Mpxls.<br>
A nice round number...and not on the market yet at any price!<br>
Wait... I believe the Iranian's capture of the RQ-170 stealth drone has some mighty fine huge Mpxl optical digital sensors in it for sale to highest bidder right now! :-)</p>
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<p>E-6 Days are numbered unfortunately. The best lab we had in San Diego close to me just quit all Silver processing/printing and only prints digitally now.<br /><br />The good news is there is still one lab in our county that handles tons of E-6/C-41 in multiple sizes by mail order from all over and the lab looks clean. <br />I have received decent and affordable work from them, with one-day turnaround by USPS.<br>
Give em a try:http://www.northcoastphoto.com/film_developing_scans.html <br>
Good Luck!</p>
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<p>Don't forget the forklift!<br />Hand inspecting the equipment and film as carry on, not only thru the TSA, but Mexican Customs...are you kidding?</p>
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<p>"A few months ago I was down in Indiana and bought some color film in one of the Amish stores."<br>
Now that must have been something unusual as the Amish faithful eschew all use of electricity and modern devices.<br>
Their darkrooms are eternally dark! Sort of Fred Flintstone School of Photography.<br>
As a side note: I just returned from Kalona Iowa, largest Amish community west of the Mississippi, where oddly enough the town's photography studio was shuttered and condemned unfit for occupancy.</p>
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<p>Unusual workflow sequence, but then I don't understand your intended output...which is the whole point of any workflow.<br /><br />For what its worth my workflow steps in ACR:<br>
1. Open RAW file after importing from Bridge.<br>
2. Workflow options at bottom of window set to: AdobeProPhoto, 16-bit, Native resolution of camera capture.<br>
3. Set White Balance with WB tool on neutral object (R=G=B values) or target if included in image, adjust accordingly for aesthetic considerations.<br>
4. Set Black Point Slider to just before clipping occurs with option(alt) key held down.<br>
5. Set Exposure Slider to just before clipping occurs with option(alt) key held down.<br>
6. Set Brightness (Midtones) as an aesthetic consideration of what was actually shot...no numeric or histogram value.<br>
7. If needed Set Fill light (rarely) to fix bad exposure/lighting.<br>
8. Set Recovery slider with option(alt) key held down, but with a gentle hand as it can smear out highlights when specular highlights should exist.<br>
9. Clarity Vibrance and Saturation are also aesthetic controls but can give images a brittle look or "Hawaii" look if over done. Lowering clarity does wonders for bad complexions though.<br>
10. Evaluate image...does it really need any Tone Curve adjustments after color correcting and setting White and Black points properly? If so a little Point adjustments or Tone Curve...but very little. NEVER Sharpen here UNLESS you directly outputting to a .JPEG file with the Save as button for quick files for proofs, web etc<br>
Your done!<br>
Open as a 16-bit Photoshop .psd file and proceed with any pixel fiddling: Cropping, Resizing, Dodge&Burn with Overlay Layer, Additional Tone Curves with Curves layer, Clone stamping for retouching on duplicate Background layer. <br>
Soft Proof to Output device, make adjustments if out of Gamut, THEN Sharpen and convert to output Profile for printing or sRGB profile for web/email/un-profiled printers. If needing jpeg output drop to 8-bit mode now AFTER editing. Why throw away half of your pixels for a JPEG at the beginning of editing?<br>
Why any extra file formats, steps ie., tiff, jpegs etc?? K.I.S.S. Keep it simple stupid!</p>
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<p>For an accurate Managed Color Workflow you HAVE to calibrate your monitor otherwise its just a random bunch of number fiddling trying to match output by "chasing the color" when your screen is never brought into sync by the "Prescription" correction that an accurate monitor profile will bring to that workflow.<br>
Of course you wont see a difference in subtle color gamut changes because your display is not accurately displaying any color info sent to it regardless of 8, 16-bit, Adobe98, sRGB, Adobe ProPhoto or soft proofing with a ICC profile for a printer and paper combo. </p>
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<p>Who cares about vintage cool factor except if you worry about what people think about you and your (functioning?) camera instead of the quality of your images and the ease with which you produced them.<br>
Shoot with equipment that works for your style of shooting (no pun intended about the rifle) firstly.<br>
The Mamiya 6 is an awesome camera considering its ease of use like a 35mmRF yet huge negs, it comes with great lenses and is a turnkey deal.<br>
Forget the Bronica...its a lousy Hasselbald knockoff. Look at KEH prices to give you relative desirability by virtue of prices for both.</p>
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<p>OOps I meant EF-S lenses, which project a smaller image circle onto the smaller cropped sensors of the non FF camera bodies.</p>
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<p>Save money with Digital? Rethink that for a moment...calibration software, inkjet printer, quality paper, inks, monitor calibrator, quality lenses, not the crop crap kit plastic lenses, Adobe Software and others, time in front of computer...it really is just about the same.</p>
<p>It just depends on what you are trying to do...its not the tool, its the task and which tool best meets the needs of that task.</p>
<p>If you plan eventually on a full frame camera dont waste money buying a crappy kit lens (EF lenses) as it becomes a vignetting piece of junk when you go FF.</p>
<p>Buyer Beware.</p>
Canvas Size / Image Size
in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing
Posted