bill_morrow1

Thanks all. Yes, question pertained to quality of the same cropped image, if the same image was obtained with one camera then the other.

6 fps incidently is real helpful on something fast moving like rodeo.

I'd read a Bob Atkins post previously stating the 5D had more and bigger pixels, and should therefor yield superior image quality.

At day's end though, they're both great cameras. Thanks again...

My question is...given the above lens on a 40D (with 1.6x crop) vs 5D (FF), and

cropping as required in both cases to the same sized image, which would give

the better resolution of the cropped image. My first choice would be to use

the 40D and get a greater effective FOV. A weekend shoot of a rodeo with the

5D provided some very clear crops. Any input, as always, is appreciated.

Just came across this. To add, that I have sold cameras and

lenses to them. My experience with them was excellent. Nice people.

Mine works flawlessly. I can't recall exactly but there was some

physical anomoly that took me a minute or two to figure out. Of course

reading the instrtuctions would have helped, but.... I think it's something that was taken off the 20 that was needed on the 40. The good news is that the "thing" I thinking of (without looking) is STORED inside the BG. Thinking bout it...it may havebeen the original battery cover...and the problem may have been figuring out how to get the battery cover off the 40. Whatever...it does work.

If you buy a 5D, be sure to invest in a sensor cleaning kit. Why it's

more of a problem than any of my 1.6 jobs, I am not sure. It really

is a pain keeping it clean. I have a beautiful 20 x 30 blowup from a

300D (6 mp), so don't be dazzeled by a couple of mp difference.

My 40D is superb.

I have a 17-50/2.8 Tamron and an 18-250 Tamron. All the rest are Canon. Only experience with lens other than Canon is the above, and

I've been more than satisfied. With enough scientific equipment I'm sure I could find some differences, but with my 40D...pictures look great.

Is your reader internal to the computer? I had this problem also.

Even if it's built in, it's still plug-n-play if you will. There are

no drivers. I removed and reinstalled the plug that connects to the

mother board. After that, all was fine. Caution. This is a very small Molex type connector (at least on my Dell). I wasn't real comfy doing with everything powered up, but I didn't think it would read it the other way. That may be incorrect, I'm not sure. I don't say this is the solution to your problem, but it was the one for mine.

With regard to this lens, I have the usual vignetting problem with my thin Hoya circular polarizer at the wide end. Sky gets very UNEVENLY dark, depending on the adjustment. The question: would using a LINEAR

or non-circular polarizer, even this out. I'm aware of all the auto-focus problems associated, but my interest is in the condition I mentioned. Not just the 10-22 by the way. Evident in all wide view lenses I have used with polarization. Of course if I had an old style 77 I would just try it, but naturally I don't. Thanks....

I use a Manfrotto 3245. Quik-release grip, but no tilt head.

It has it's place. The tilt head addition would be beneficial, but

the monopod is a quick-use thing for me. If I want more, I'll

use one of my tripods. Walked around in a crowd of people last night

with pod attached and collapsed. Squeeze handle and it drops for

support as needed, but you don't bang everything and everyone with

something unwieldy. And at the end of the day, it doesn't give the

absolute stable support a tripod does. Depends on your application.

Physically, how close are the portables? Some of those Motorola units

are rated at 5 watts. Inquire what band they are operating? High band (like around 173 mhz; UHF or trunked, which would be in the 800 mhz region. Also...what function on the 5D is affected by the RFI?

I have a 5D, but don't generally have occasion to use it in an RF-rich

environment. When they're not shooting, borrow a portable and try to duplicate the problem. I'm not sure any of this is going to help, but

it's a direction.

They must really be flying out the door. I had the CSR call me when one became available, and while we were talking--it evaporated. He

did call the next day with an availability, and I ordered. I have

ordered from others, but on items like this, I stay with B&H

exclusively. I called Shutterbug once and inquired as to history of

complaints about some advertisers. They were pretty candid.

Since we're on the subject of the 100-400 and filters...I actually

purchased a Canon polarizer. The quality is no better than any of the others, but that's not the point. Point is that...the lens cap

(Canon) will not engage the lip of the Canon polarizer on the Canon lens. Therefor, the options are while walking around, keep the lens hood on (which I do), or remove the Polarizer to replace the lens cap.

All other filters by the way, will engage the Canon cap. A call to Canon got the response..." really...I didn't know that". Anyone else

run into the same thing? It's not an ultra thin by the way, but then it's not exactly a wide angle of view. Gotten used to the anomoly,

but I'm still curious as to why.

I can't speak to the direct comparison, but I do have the 100-400 L

and a 400 SIGMA prime. There have been times I would have wished for

a little adjustment room to better frame the shot, which fixed did not

provide. And always consider the weight. The 100-400 is just about the most I want to walk around with. I've owned heavier. They're just a bit inconvenient.

Thanks guys. I think I'll connect it and give it a shot--so to speak.

Hey....what's the worst that can happen? (LOL). Dear Canon: Out of box failure. Please replace under warranty.

I was kinda wondering about that myself....that is, will the BG-E2

I already have work on the new 40D that I am getting. Some obvious

advantages here of course. I've gotten both answers...i.e, yes it will and of course, no it won't. Anybody know for sure? Thanks

While we're on the subject of battery grips. 20D manual shows BG-E2.

The 5D specs BG-E4. Now I have a 20D with BG-E2. My questions are

1. Can the E2 be used on the 5D (even though book says E4) and 2. if

anyone has a 40D manual....will the E2 work on the 40D. I don't know what the 30D required as I don't have one. The 10D was ED-3. This

is as bad as trying to keep up with 1-series suffix letters.

Thanks

Pretty much the same thing. Grabbed it by accident one day (it's

really for the EOS-1N). I know it doesn't work on the 20D, but haven't tried it on the 5D

Digital SLRs have a lot of advantages over film versions,

but this "aint one of 'em" Like one of the previous posts,

I too never saw the dirt problem with my 20D. Now...enter

a 5D. And try one with two cats! It's discouraging I know,

but if you read enough of the above, you WILL trumph. Lay

off the vacuum (I was so frustrated I used a shopvac in

reverse)as it actually forces dirt up around the mirror.

This places it in your view, even after you've cleaned the sensor.

I went with the Delkin Sensorscope kit as a lot of my problem was

actually seeing inside. There are other systems, and a lot of very good suggestions and posts on here. It may seem intimidating

but get confidence in your ability, it's just one of those

things you do--like cleaning the lens. Read these posts and the

links they provide. Other cautions that you will read, but just

make sure you fully charge the battery before starting. I really

don't know why I never had this problem to a large extent with the 20D. Testing: shoot the blue sky at f22. Play with focus eg

fucus at a tree they pan out but also suggested, just let the camera

autofocus on the sky. In short--play with it