mischakoning

<p>I've recently bought a 500SWC/M (actually an SWC which was later upgraded to SWC/M) and it is indeed an excellent camera. Got it for a mere 900 Euros, which is very inexpensive. They usually go for a couple of hundert more here in central europe. Hoewever, a few years ago a good user would still cost you 1500 on the well known auction site.</p>

<p>The reason for me was just to try it out. So much is written about the SWC and sometimes my 500C and C/M with 50mm lens was just not wide enough (that's at least what I told my wife). Since they seem to hold their value nowadays, I decided to buy, try and resell if I wouldn't like it. Well, I haven't used it all that often, it is rather specialised and it takes quite some room in the bag, with a 500 and a few lenses and backs but I sometimes just take it out on its own and come home with good pictures.</p>

<p>The camera does take some time to get used to though. Distance "guestimating" at close range has to be done carefully and I tend to take more pictures at close range with this wide angle lens. Portraits taken with this camera have a very special look and I just love the square.</p>

<p>thank you for your suggestions. Seems that there is more than one way of copying my negs...</p>

<p>For years I've been shooting medium format negative film and only occasionally a few slide films. Now that I have bought a medium format slide projector, I would like to take more slide film but also would like to project some black-and-white pictures that were taken on black-and-white negative film.</p>

<p>So what would be the easiest way to create a b/w slide out of the b/w negatives? Would it suffice to just copy the negative onto another negative (using a macro setup and background flash?).</p>

<p>If so, what would be the best type fo film for this? TMX would probably not be too good, sind the slides would project pink-ish (never had any luck fully getting rid of the pink residue) but would a film like Delta 100 work? I mean, it's plenty sharp and probably contrasty enough to make a decent copy?</p>

<p>Does anyone have experience with such set up?</p>

<p>(Note: this is not a how-to-take-b/w-slides post, I know about DR5 although I've not tried it - yet)</p>

<p>and of course there's always the solution of becoming a paying member of photo.net, less advertising - however, being a webdesigner by trade, I'm curious wat Friskies did do wrong :o)</p>

<p>hi, seems to be an adapter from the small (narrow) tripod screw on your ballhead to a large tripod mount screw size. There were indeed two sizes, with the smaller diameter being more comon nowadays but there are still many cameras around (also LF) using the larger diameter screw for more stability. Hasselblad cameras actually had two holes, one for the larger, one for the smaller screw (then use a slide-in tripod mount).</p>

<p>An article on how to us 120 film in a 616 camera using original 616 spool ends written by Peter A. Lerro Sr. can be found on my website. <a href="http://kodak.3106.net/index.php?p=516">Convert a Six-16 Folding Camera for Use with 120 Film</a>. Let me know if it works for you.</p>

<p>for what it's worth, Hasselblad made a filmback type "A16s" which had a film gate in superslide format. I think this would make cutting somewhat easier. I actually do have one of these but have never used it.</p>

<p>hi, the <a href="http://www.photoboerse.at/">Photoboerse</a> at Lerchenfelder Straße 62-64, A-1080 Wien has a good selection of classic cameras and accesories.<br>

The Leica shop mentioned by the previous poster does make your mouth water (make sure you <strong>don't</strong> take your credit card with you, it might get expensive :o)<br>

United Photography, pretty much opposite the Leica shop in the same street might still have some second hand gear, but not sure. There are some shops in the same vicinity as well so you might go on foot and have a look around.<br>

have fun shopping!</p>

<p>according to the instructions that came with my flash (Mulitblitz V series) the modelling light lasts only for 12 hours. Reason for this is that the 600 Watt halogen bulb is not really made for continuous usage. However, I have yet to change my first bulb. One was broken upon arrival but the new ones put in 2 years ago still work. I always switch off my modelling lights when the scene ist set, that may help too.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/lens-table">Look here on photo.net</a>.</p>

<p>ps: you'd best contact me offline.</p>

<p>hi Deepak,<br>

I do have a camera plus manual. Would you like a scan of the manual or would you like the original? Willing to part with it for shipping cost only. Where are you located?<br>

best regards, mischa</p>

<p>Maybe my post comes a little late but I just saw your question.<br>

There are a lot of possibilities here. When you buy a second hand camera you may always sell it for about the same price you bought it for. The question really is: are you willing to use an all manual camera or do you also want to have the possibility to set it to auto. when you're entirely new to film-photography and new to black-and-white and also want to develop your negatives yourself, be prepared for a very steep learning curve.<br>

So before you go out and spend a lot of money, I would suggest to start as simple as possible. Buy yourself a simple Canon EOS or Nikon (or whatever) SLR camera, using standard 35mm film.<br>

When you want to toy with black-and-white film and want to develop your own negatives, just buy yourself some D76 developer, some basic dark room equipment and try to develop a few film. It's all very easy and it's best not to start buying the best and most expensive equipment finding out later you don't like black-and-white.<br>

That's the way I did it, found out I really like it and bought better equipment when I was ready for it and I knew what I needed.</p>

<p>Hi Pete,<br>

absolutely, I'm still trying to update my Kodak site and have collected a number of good pictures already but haven't had time, mostly because of all the work on my non-Kodak camera collection site.<br>

I just have too many cameras stored in boxes and I'm currently selling out, at least getting rid of most of them in order to concentrate on the "nicest" cameras - but we all know how difficult it is to stay concentrated and not to wander off :o) Also trying not to read the question about "the best range finder"...</p>

<p>Hi Pete,<br>

there is a picture of the self timer on my website <a href="http://kodak.3106.net/index.php?p=711">http://kodak.3106.net/index.php?p=711</a>. Unfortunately also undated. But it seems you are correct assuming this to be an item sold during WWI.<br>

I'll check my old German catalogues this weekend to see if there is an original German version.</p>

<p>Hi Alvin,<br>

congratulations with your purchase, the Busch Pressman Model D was my entry into large format and although I mostly use a monorail in my home studio nowadays, it's still a very nice camera. The body on my D was actually cut in two to allow for back movements but I never used that "new" feature.<br>

Anyway, what you'll want to look for is sheet film holders for 4x5 or 9x12 format. 4x5 is probably the better choice as more film is available.<br>

Here's a link with info on <a href="http://www.butzi.net/articles/filmload.htm">how to load the film in the sheet film holders</a>. Seems a little intimidating at first but it's not al that hard.<br>

The hardest part is actually tying to remember the order of things to do when you want to take a (read: one) picture :o)</p>

 

<p>hi Pete,<br>

I'm also a big fan of Yashica TLRs. My first real medium format camera was an lie-new Yashica D which I purchased in Prague. Apparently a shipload of Yashica Ds was imported during the "Prague Spring" in 1968, just before the iron curtain around the Czech Slovakian republic was closed again.<br>

I bought mine about 5 years ago and have used it a lot, they weigh next to nothing, can be hand held up to 1/15 (when not drinking too much coffee) and make no sound at all.<br>

After my first D came an A-TLR, then another D then a MAT, then an LM and then some other Yashica TLRs. They just look so cool although the later once do seem to have some film transport issues.<br>

All of them except the A have the 4-element lens. According to some sources the 635 and D were produced during the same time and come with either 3 or 4 element lenses, seems to have been the both transitional models.<br>

regards,<br>

mischa</p>

<p>Last week I re-discovered by Yashica Campus so I took that one out this weekend, shot a roll of old Portra 400BW (or something). And I also used my little Olympus MJU-1 again, it's too new to fit in this forum but it's just one of those point-and-shoot cameras I've learned to love....</p>

<p>Then I've opened many boxes of cameras, sorting out which to keep and which to sell, it's a hard job but well, when one needs more space to live.</p>

<p>yes, that seems to be the camera. Thanks! Of course the film chamber is not a bad place to store parts but why would anyone take the camera apart and then leave it like that. Ok ok, maybe he or she was unable to put it all back together again. I've heard that things like that happen. Not to me mind you *hahaha*.<br>

Thank you for the info!</p>

<p>hi,<br>

I have recently bought a 1 Euro unknown TLR in a very bad condition, some parts aparently came off and were placed in the film chamber. Who would do something like that... well, he or she probably wasn't a collector :o)<br>

Anyway, one of the parts missing is the name plate. Does any of you know which camera this is? There is no marking or reference to a name at all.<br>

thanks in advance!</p><div></div>

true, there is a lot of conflicting information on the web about the Click and Clack, then, to make things more confusing there are a few different models as well<br><br>Not sure if a simple calculation would do the job as the film plane is curved. So the DoF might actually be more at f11 than with other, flat plane cameras.

there's even a Version III (3), take a look at my <a href="http://www.3106.net/photo/cam1028.htm">Fed Micron 3

here</a> (oops, many writing and spelling errors, maybe I should read what I've written before uploading the file.

Maybe an update later today). <br> <br>I've only used it once, over 70 exposures is a lot really, especially after

having used medium format but this small camera is great. I've only used it in flash mode, did not trust the meter

really but it might work. Have fun with yours and it's a great thing someone is still using these real snap-shooters.

Jack, thank you for the fast answer! It indeed seems to fit and I even have some information on the website:

<br><br>

<a href="http://kodak.3106.net/index.php?p=213&cam=1494">Kodak Premoette Junior No.1</a>

<br><br>

<a href="http://kodak.3106.net/index.php?p=512">Film Packs</a>

<br><br>

Missed the film pack option completely, my fault. McKeown's Kodak Booklet does not have any references to the Premoettes and my other references don't have any pictures. Hhhmmm, might be time to go out and buy the full McKeown :o)

<br><br>

thanks again for the fast answer!

and the last one...<div></div>

and the next<div></div>