john_hanlon3

<p>Ninety percent of everything is crud. (Sturgeon's revelation).</p>

<p>The Tamron is a little less than half a stop slower than the Sigma at the long end which isn't significant in good light but the 10% reduction in magnification may or may not be an issue for you. Also I don't know how the AF speed of the Tamron compares with the Sigma. Be aware that your existing lenses have a low trade in value as JDM rightly pointed out.</p>

<p>Hello Carolyn,</p>

<p>A new Tamron 18-270 will cost you $479 after rebate at B&H, a new T1i will cost you $549. You might consider a second body. With a superzoom you are trading off optical performance for convenience but most of the time you would probably be quite happy with the results. </p>

<p><em>I understand it should be much wider than the EF 17-40 f/4L lens mounted on my 7D.</em><br>

<em> </em><br>

Wrong. The focal length of a lens does not change when mounted on a crop sensor body.<br>

The 17-55 acts as a 27-88 on the 7D. <strong>17 x 1.6 = 27, 55 x 1.6 = 88.</strong></p>

<p><em> The EF 17-40mm f/4L actually works as a 27mm-64mm lens on my cropped-sensor camera.</em><br>

<em> </em><br>

True, and the 17-55 works as a 27-88 on a crop sensor. No gain at the wide end as Carl pointed out.</p>

<p>I would also recommend John Shaw's book on Landscapes. In fact I recommend you buy all his books. Learn from the master!</p>

<p>Hello Woody,</p>

<p>There are many such lenses available from both Canon and the independent lens makers. First you need to decide how much range you need, 17-50, 18-55 or 18-200 for example. Also do you need a fast lens, ie. f2.8 or would a slower variable aperture be adequate (fast lenses are expensive and heavy). You then need to see how much you can afford. The Canon 18-55 f3.5-5.6 IS is sharp, light and cheap and would be a good choice for your 1000D. You can read test reports on Bob Atkins.com or Photozone to help you decide. I use a 18-55 IS on a 30D and I am very happy with it.</p>

<p>Hello Ding,</p>

<p>What have you got to lose? Let us know how you get on!</p>

<p>Hello James,</p>

<p>B&H and Adorama are both excellent vendors and you may buy from them with full confidence. If I was you I would wait until they re-open on April 7. Adorama usually has the best selection of refurbished equipment. I've bought many refurbs from them over the years and never had a single problem. The items looked and worked like brand new and came with all the same accessories and software that you would get with a new product. The only real difference is in the plainer packaging and the three month warranty but to offset this you will save a nice amount of money. For used equipment, KEH have a great reputation although I've never bought from them myself.</p>

<p>If you want to buy into full system DSLR then I think Canon or Nikon are probably the best choice. Either way you won't be disappointed. I would also recommend that you read the articles on choosing a camera in the learning section here on photonet.</p>

<p>Hello Ivan,</p>

<p>You are free to use whatever you want. There are plenty of choices including some good free software like Picasa or Paint. NET for example. I use both of those plus PaintshopPro X2 which is reasonably priced. I'm sure you'll get plenty of advice to spend hundreds of dollars on Photoshop. For myself, I'm not interested in spending hours and hours tweaking an image to the nth degree.</p>

<p>Hello Tammy,</p>

<p>The IS and AF/MF are controlled by two separate switches so it's impossible to answer your question. Would you please clarify? Also which lens are you using? The shooting mode setting doesn't matter.</p>

<p>Hello Richard,</p>

<p>What are you waiting for? To quote Bob Atkins' review: "a killer lens". I have the IS version but it gets heavy in a hurry shooting hand held, even after removing the tripod mount, so I always use a tripod or monopod with IS switched off. Add a Canon 1.4X and you have an excellent 420mm f/5.6 with virtually no loss in sharpness or focusing speed.</p>

<p>Bob's review is here: <a href="http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/reviews/300-4.html">http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/reviews/300-4.html</a> Note that he finds the non-IS version a touch sharper than the IS.</p>

<p>Hello Brian,</p>

<p>You don't need software. Go to Walmart and buy a card reader for $13, plug it in to your computer, stick the card in and away you go.</p>

<p>Hello Anthony,</p>

<p>You can mount a polarizing filter on any lens, however be aware that the 55-250 & the 70-300 both have rotating front elements, the 50 does not.</p>

<p><em>"Stanley Unwin lives again!"</em><br>

<em></em> <br>

Hardly, Raffy isn't even close to Unwin's mastery of Gobbledegook.<br>

Anyway Robin, thanks for the reminder, it brings back many happy memories!</p>

<p>Hello again Raffy,</p>

<p>I have just read your equally incomprehensible post on the Lieca forum. You have raised the art of technobabble to new heights, I salute you! :-)</p>

<p>Hello Raffy,</p>

<p> </p><div></div>

<p>What difference does it make?</p>

<p>Hello Alper,</p>

<p><em>"I know I really should get a better telephoto lens..." </em><br>

<em></em><br>

Why? You don't need expensive equipment to take good pictures, besides, you can't beat free. Don't be intimidated by the photonet lens snobs! We've all had the problem you described at one time or another, the oxidized layer insulating the contacts is invisible. Enjoy your lens!</p>

<p>Hello Dan,</p>

<p>" ...<em>except for the inverse pole approach for macros"</em><br>

<em></em><br>

Why anyone would want to do that is beyond me. Trying to operate an upside down camera while being squeezed between the tripod legs is an exercise in frustration, believe me, I've tried it and it just doesn't work! A solid tripod with legs that spread wide enough to get the camera low to the ground is what you need. You also need a wired remote shutter release to eliminate camera vibration. Remember that any movement is magnified along with the image. The 055XPROB that Monika recommended is probably a good choice, plus a good quality ball head, or three-way head - your choice.</p>

<p>If it wasn't for Mark's link, I would never have found the 18-135 review either. Could somebody explain to me how to find it starting from the equipment tab?</p>

<p>Hello Anthony,</p>

<p>As Edward rightly points out, the tripods you are considering would not provide a rigid enough support for a 400mm focal length. However, I think a Gitzo carbon #2 would be a good compromise between the conflicting requirements of weight and rigidity. I use a Gitzo 2530 and an Acratech GV2 in gimbal mode to support a 30d+EF 300mm f/4+1.4X TC with satisfactory results, although I am probably right at the limit for the tripod. Certainly a longer lens would demand a Gitzo #3 or greater.</p>

<p>The 2530 (replaced by the 2531 I think) weighs 3lb and the head 1lb. At my age this is as much weight as I want to carry!</p>

<p>Hello Andrew,</p>

<p>As Jeremy suggested, clean the battery contacts with an eraser. The contacts might look clean but an oxidized layer would be impossible to see with naked eye. If that doesn't work, test the battery with a voltmeter to make sure it is actually charged, your charger could be dead.</p>

<p>Actually, Ø = diameter. (Engineering drawing symbol).</p>

<p>Hello JDM,</p>

<p>"yes, but</p>

<h1>99.98% of <em>Everything</em> is c#$p"</h1>

<p>Actually, "ninety percent of <em>everything</em> is <strong>crud</strong>" (Sturgeon's Law coined by author Theodore Sturgeon in 1951). I couldn't find "c#$p" in my dictionary but I did find the word "crap". I do wish people would not try to disguise "rude" words with silly symbols.<br>

End of rant:)</p>