alioffe

With this camera it may be NOT a battery problem. When I had this camera I had such issue as well with different batteries and battery grip BP-50 and fresh batteries. I did investigation on Internet at that time (1999. I cannot find them now) and found a lot of users suffer from the same kind defect ("mirror up + battery indicator = empty"). Very often happens in contiguous mode. Must turn off camera or press shutter again

 

I sent the camera (on warranty) to repair center. After a month or so returned with "Repaired EPU (CPU?). Replaced battery cover...". After a while it started experienced the same problem again may be not so wildly. But send for another months again was too much for me

 

In my understanding the camera has some kind protection mechanism which is over sensitive. It is triggered during normal operations because the adjustment is not correct. Because it is an analog circuitry (at least partialy) the parameters may float in time and depend on temperature, etc.

I had this with Canon 5d and old Adobe RAW converter (on RAW files), which came with PCS2. Since I upgraded ARC to the latest version everything looks fine.

I think with 2nd curtain sync and longer shutter speed it is more noticable and does not matter how fast your mirror. I like solution with * button. But again shutter speed shouild be fast enough anyway.

Yes, some people (e.g. my wife) do this consistently. This is a pain in the ... to take pictures of her with flash. Almost all of them are ruined.

But most people who I have picture taken do not exibit such behoviour.

If you can, say one who you take picture of do not look directly into camera, smile and relax. Sometime it helps.

First of all, happy New Year and thanks a lot for everyone who tried to help me.

I will try to clarify the issue.

Before submit my post I read the post

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00JGRZ&tag=

 

But my issue is different than this one. Generally I'm happy with autofocus performance in 'room' conditions. I tried 'taped-news-paper'. I tried portraits in difficult light situations and night shots. It is very impressive and I think is much better than my old Elan+28-135.

 

1) I did not get 100% accuracy every time especially in bad lighting and THIS IS EXPECTABLE and understood: as any analog system it has some degree accuracy and % of errors. The worse conditions, the more errors. This is not an issue.

 

2) What I did not expect, it performs much worse (worse than Elan+28-135) when TEMERATURE IS AROUND or slightly below FREEZING point. Namely, autofocus fails very often during perfect light conditions. If not failed, the errors often were so significant that makes result unacceptable.

 

3) Yes, I did nature shots with CPF, but I did the same all time with Elan on maximum zoom when it has F/5.6 and found no such issue. The CPF in my understanding is no more than 1.5stop (Hoya)

 

4) I did portraits without CPF and focused on most contrast parts of face - eyes.

 

5) The distance was always greater than minimum. For portraits it was enough to have 'head and shoulder' or greater @ 105mm. Objects were still

 

6) I used central focusing point selected and 'one shot' modes, which I assume has best performance.

 

If someone has used this combo in conditions as descried, please share the experience with us. I will appreciate it very much.

 

I will continue my investigation as weather allows and will post if find anything new. I will try another my lens, but it is not quite comparable for this kind issue - 50/1.4.

 

I guess, it is a difficult issue in terms that I have to proof (or disproof) that system does not work not in 'laboratorial' conditions, but on the field. I anticipate that it will make harder conversation with Canon?s support especially if manual said 'Working temperature range: 0C-40C/32F-104F'.

 

BTW, I found that the sensitive area around focusing point is less than on Elan. It is especially noticeable during night shots (tried X-mas lights). It means that if focusing point is not EXACTLY on contrast part of frame the focus does not work. Is it only my impression?

Sorry, forgot to say, for landscape shots I had CP filter attached

Last example. Thanks again<div></div>

another example<div></div>

Yesterday I took 5d + 24-105ISL for my first field trip and was somewhat

disappointed with autofocus performance and reliability:

 

1) Temperature - a little below or just above 0C. Normal day or morning light

conditions, IS off, tripod, battery ? full, central focusing point, ?one shot?

mode. Autofocus failed very often on simple landscapes, trees, mountains, with

many medium contrast objects. To make it work I had to use horizon line or a

white building on gray background. If not failed - many shots after careful

examination at home were not in focus. Another example of bad performance ?

macro shots.

 

2) Another example ? 'head and shoulder' portraits, still objects, handhold,

IS - on. In open shadow in snow environment, or on sunny spots. Temperature - a

little below 0C. Tried to focus on eyes (what could be contrastier?) Many shots

missed due to auto focus failed and I had to refocus multiple times. Again,

where it was not missed ? many out of focus.

 

I used to own Elan II + 28-135IS and did successfully a lot of above even

during minus 10-15C degree including night shots. Yes, it was slower but not

failed so many times.

 

I tested 5d+24-105 at home, at normal temperature even with not good light.

Autofocus performance seems good to me. Not perfect every time, but acceptable

and not failed so often.

 

Is that what I should expect from high-grade professional equipment?

Thanks in advance.

 

See examples<div></div>

I used it on my Elan II (until it was recently stolen) and found it very useful

particularly for some landscapes with foreground and group portraits when zoom

lens in use. I've never taken a shot in this mode, but used it to figure out

maximum possible aperture and then set it in the manual mode.

 

Now I'm looking for a digital replacement, particularly 5d. Reading the manual

to my surprise I found that this highly computerized camera does not have this

simple function. Am I correct?

 

Also reading forums I've never seen a complaint about someone could be missing

it. Seems to me everyone is happy without DEP.

Unfortunately I cannot use DOF preview as I have poor eyesight (uncorrectable)

and completely rely on auto focus. Tables or calculator? I don't think this is

a practical option.

 

I would like to hear how other people (if any) with similar problem (or without

it) could solve this.

 

In any case I won't change my mind about buying 5d.

 

Thank you.

What the size would be recommended for retouch work, selection? The bigger the better? Or small could be good enough? Any particular type? high-end model or middle price could be enough?

Thank you.

I looked through reviews (All review I found was about PRO) and colorvision's

website in the comparison chart and do not understand clearly the difference so

cannot decide which I need and what this additional $100 for?.

 

I consider myself as an advanced amateur and a kind freaky about quality, who

is entering into digital age.

 

1. Will Suite work as good as PRO for regular digital photo workflow with a

regular computer equpment PC and Mac (Assuming I do not have projector)?

 

2. I also have concern that my monitor/videocard may be incompatible: CRT

monitor NEC MultiSync FP955, videocard Matrox Marvel G450, Windows XP. I have

also ViewSonic VP930b (on different computer with 24-bit videocard).

 

Has for anyone calibration failed due to incompatibility or other hardware or

software matter?

 

Thanks for the help!