jim_bob12

<p>A fairly recently acquired OM-4 which is mostly excellent...<br>

I'm getting an underexposed band down the right hand side of the frame, it only appears on shots taken at 1/125 - seems fine faster or slower. Is this shutter bounce or shutter capping? It's a very well defined line and extends into the frame from the right-hand side about 8mm.<br>

It's been in for repair a couple of times, but still does it. Any ideas?</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>Jim</p>

<p> </p><div></div>

<p>It's not under warranty unfortunately, i've done the adjustment myself using this as a reference <a href="http://www.richcutler.co.uk/r-d1/r-d1_16.htm">http://www.richcutler.co.uk/r-d1/r-d1_16.htm</a> it's for the RD-1, but they have the same rangefinder mechanism as the later Bessa's.<br>

It's not something i'd like to do too often - a repair man job next time i think.<br>

Infinity is now spot-on, close focussing with the rangefinder still matches the distance markings on the lens - but i guess i'll have wait and see with the next roll to make sure!</p>

<p>Horizontal alignment is out on my R2a, this hasn't really been an issue with 50mm lenses - close focus is spot-on.</p>

<p>I'm about to start using an Elmar 9cm however, not reaching infinity is likely to cause problems with longer focal lengths isn't it?</p>

<p>Can infinity focus (horizontal alignment) be adjusted without affecting close-focus?</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>Jim</p>

<p>Mission acomplished... all frames on the roll look ok, but i will print a few more just to be sure.</p><div></div>

<p>Thanks John, that's what i've done - it looks a lot better but i'm not convinced it will cure it as my OM-1 looks very much the same, but doesn't suffer from the problem anywhere near as much. I'll post some results when i get around to developing this roll.</p>

<p>The rough silver line that would be closest to the film (just above the film rail in the pic) isn't that obvious to the eye but has shown up in the picture quite a lot. This seems the most likely culprit, some carefully applied matt black paint may be the answer - i'll give it a go.</p>

<p>That's my thinking too, which way does the shutter travel in an OM? right to left? Even with the good camera, you can occasionally see the same faint line on the right edge of the print - that would be the left edge looking in the back of the camer wouldn't it?<br>

The most obvious shiny bit looking in the back of the camera with the shutter open, is some (what looks like) glue holding a felt strip in place, there's one at the top too, but the glue is more obvious on the bottom. This is not present on the left and right sides though - so possibly not the main cause.</p><div></div>

<p>That could be possible with the second example - this was shot a few years ago, i developed everything in a Jobo CPE2 back then. Now i always develop by hand and use semi-stand agitation, three inversions every three minutes, and plastic reels. I'll see what my next roll looks like. Thanks for all the suggestions - hopefully i'll get tho the bottom of this soon - and learn a thing or two as well!</p>

<p>I think you're probably right.. i'll compare the OM-1 and OM-2 and see if i can spot any differences.</p>

<p>I forgot to mention... in the corners the white line forms a cross - you can just see this in the top left and bottom right of this picture.</p>

<p>It doesn't extend into the film leader, but does show up on all four edges of each frame (usually far more obvious along the top) i do do all my own processing, but this doesn't affect my other cameras...</p><div></div>

<p>I'm positive it's internal reflections, film is always new and processed within a couple of days.<br>

Any ideas how these reflections can be reduced or eliminated? The OM-2n is the older camera and seen a lot more action, 79 or 80 i think, but it looks fairly clean inside and works perfectly otherwise.</p>

<p>When printing full-frame from my OM-2n there is usually a rough white border just inside the film rebate. This gets more and more visible with higher contrast, and looks really bad... It is visible in scans and on prints.<br>

This is also sometimes visible on negatives from my OM-1n, but it is far less and only occurs in certain light situations.<br>

Can this be fixed? is it internal reflections around the film opening?<br>

As i like to print full-frame this is really causing a headache! any help would be gratly appreciated.</p>

<p>Thanks<br>

Jim</p><div></div>

Doh! I just realized the film expired in April 2005, is that likely to give an extreme increase in grain?

its a resize of a 12 megapixel scan, my scanner is crappy (a Pacific Image Prime Film 3600u), but i still get very fine scans from the same type of film with very little grain - your right though this is significantly grainier than B&W stuff i have shot with Neopan 1600

 

This is what the grain looks like close-up<div></div>

Hi folks,

 

i have just started developing my own C41 negatives and im having some realy

good and some realy bad results - i just developed this film:

 

The film was Konica VX100 and it was developed using the Nova press kit (i cant

seem to find kits with a seperate bleach and fix). I have had some very fine

results from the same film and chems, but this one is extremely grainy, whats

up? dead blix?

 

This is the third film i have developed in the same chems - the first two were

very good, fine grained.

 

Thanks

 

Jim<div></div>