jay a. frew

Hello Christopher:

<quote>I purchased the EOS 350D twin lens kit, it's a great kit and I am really enjoying using it<end quote>

If you enjoy your XT body and kit lenses, why not buy another 350D body? They are only about $500.00 new. Then you would have a body for each lens.

As you know the XT weighs just over 1 lb. A 28-300 zoom is around $2000.00 and weighs 3.7 lbs (without a body attached). Two, XT bodies plus your kit lenses weigh just a bit less than the 28-300 (without body).

You would end up with:

a 2nd body in the event that one fails while on a trip;

lenses that you know and like;

an option to use a single lightweight body and lightweight lens; and

$1500.00 in your pocket.

Cheers! Jay

Hello Francis:

This idea may seem a bit off the wall but....

Since, for your stated application, you don't need much flash power, nor bounce/swivel capabilities, have you considered buying a used EOS body with built-in flash? A nice, used Elan 7 can be had for about the same price as a 220EX flash. It has ETTL, FEC, FEL and it is much lighter than your 1V.

Bodies older than the Elan 7 (like the Elan II) can be had for about US75.00.

Price ranges I quoted are from KEH...

http://www.keh.com/OnLineStore/ProductDetail.aspx

...but I'm sure there are better deals if you shop around.

Cheers! Jay

Hello Leia:

Your camera body is a tool, you seem to like using it, and it is doing a good job for you - why upgrade now if you cannot afford to? Are you losing business because of your 300D?

You should have a back-up camera body if you are doing weddings. If I was in your shoes, I would buy another 300D. They are well under $400.00 used from a reputable dealer like KEH or B&H:

- you would not have to learn a new operating system or switch between two different sets of controls (under the pressures that can accompany any wedding contract);

- all your camera accessories would fit the second body; and

- it would pay for itself in very short oder.

Then you could save for better lenses (1st) and a body upgrade (future).

Cheers! Jay

I use Picture Window Pro from Digital Light & Color (dl-c.com). It is about 90.00. There is an upgradeable standard version for about 50.00. Free trial versions are available for download.

The web site contains the manual (and several white papers) that are free to download (you don't need to purchase anything to get the manual). There is also a users forum on the web site where you can get help from the creators (and power users).

I found PW Pro easier to learn than photo shop elements. The Pro version is a fully featured photo editor, without all the extra stuff I dont't need, but, it is easy to use for basics (levels, color and sharpening).

Cheers! Jay

Hello Frank:

I do not know about the Metz, but the 383 Super should be safe to use with your XTi. I use it with my EOS film cameras and my Casio digi cam. I did test mine with a VOM and it was less that 6 VDC.

Here is a link to a list of flash trigger voltages for various flashes:

http://www.botzilla.com/photo/strobeVolts.html

The values on this list were contributed by individuals who conducted their own tests so you will see a range of voltages for any given flash.

Have fun with your new camera!

Cheers! Jay

Hello Aden:

"I often travel to poverty stricken areas where walking around with the camera is just not smart. I like to be able to just whip the camera out of the bag and shoot...quickly."

I would not choose a 1Ds MkII with either of these lenses if I was worried about my safety/security and the ability to remain inconspicuous in the environment that you describe. This kit is going to get you some attention for sure!

Cheers! Jay

Samir:

"I just can not see the advantage (except the radio transmission) over Speedlites. Is there something I am missing?"

This may be a little long winded, but you asked for it ;~))

If all you will ever do is use a flash mounted on the camera, a dedicated flash may be best. If you want to use off-camera flash there are, in my opinion better options.

In most situations, good radio trigger will be more reliable than a good optical trigger. Any optical trigger will only work on "line of sight" (although it will work by reflection in a relatively small space). Optical triggers can be unreliable outdoors in bright sunlight. Radio triggers will shoot through many obstacles and will work over longer distances outdoors, regardless of light conditions.

Manual flash system (with radio or optical triggers) is my choice over the Speedlight, system because:

1. Cost. 2 x 430EX + ST-E2 = approx $670.00 (if you buy 580Ex that increases to $1000.00). 2 x Sunpak 383 Super + Wein Optical triggers = less than $300.00

2. Flexibility: if one of my manual flashes fails or is damaged it is cheaper, and maybe easier to replace since I can buy any suitable brand. If an optical trigger fails I can replace it alone (it is not built-in to the flash) and the Wein Peanuts are so cheap (a 3-pack is less than $60.00) you can carry spares.

3. Portability is not much different with either Manual or Canon system. The Wein optical components are tiny.

4. Since I control the settings on the flashes directly, I feel that I will get more consistent results (debatable). I also feel that the "learning curve" is steeper with the Speedlight multiple flash system.

5. External Power and PC Connectors - I don't believe the 430EX has external power nor PC connectors. The 580EX has an external power but no PC connector. My Sunpak 383 Supers have both external power and external PC connetors.

After saying all that, I will also add that I have a Canon 420 EX. I bought it before I understood camera flash. It is very well built. It can be used as a "Manual" off camera flash (i.e., not part of a Canon tethered or remote flash system) with a hotshoe connector but it has two serious limitations:

1. It has an "Energy Saver" mode which automatically shuts power to the flash after 90 Secs. It will not wake-up when used as a "Manual" flash. You must go to the flash and hit one of its buttons to wake it up.

2. You cannot control the power output (without putting something in front of the flash). It will fire full power only.

Hope this helps you.

Cheers! Jay

Samir:

Before you spend a lot of $$ on Canon flash equipment, have a look at this site:

http://strobist.blogspot.com/

Check-out the "Lighting 101: Learning Flash Basics" and "On Assignment" links. They explain how to get pro quality results from low cost manual flash gear.

If you by good quality manual flashes instead of the Canon system, you could easily save enough money to buy a set of "Pocket Wizard" radio triggers.

The techniques explained on the Strobist pages will also help you if you decide to go with the Canon flash system.

Cheers! Jay

Hello Mark

I have been using the Kinesis PJ Strap.

kgear.com/h/#h675

I have used it since last winter with an EOS 3 plus battery pack with 70-200 2.8L plus TC (fairly heavy kit).

There is no swivel on the connector strap.

I bought an extra set of connectors for my second body (easy to switch bodies from my vest pocket).

Cheers! Jay

Kiran:

"Is there some basic stuff which i have missed?"

Is the camera in "One Shot" AF mode? If so, it will not release the shutter until focus is achieved. Switch the AF mode to "AI Servo." In AI Servo mode, the camera may not obtain acceptable focus but it will release the shutter.

Cheers! Jay

Do you need TTL? If you do not need TTL in this set-up then you do not need to use a dedicated Canon flash.

If you want to use your 380 EX with a remote trigger (full power only) you may also have to contend with the "Save Energy" mode. I don't have a 380 EX, but, when used with a remote trigger (on a hot shoe connector), my 420 EX "goes to sleep" after 90 seconds. I then have to walk over to it and press a button to "wake it up."

Get a manual flash. For example, the "Sunpak 383 Super" is only about $70.00 new. It has a low trigger voltage that won't hurt your camera (you can connect it directly to your hotshoe). It is a very good unit with good manual control features and it has both external power and PC connections. The only thing it is missing is a zoom head. There are many other, new and used, manual flash options.

Cheers! Jay

Hello Scott:

I have enjoyed my 17-40 for over 2 yrs. No problems. Like you, I ordered mine and that always comes with some risk (these things cost so darn much money). But, the cash savings made the risk worth while. Unfortunately, no one can tell you how your copy of the lens will perform.

My research prior to purchase found many (many, Many) more good and rave reviews than negative ones. After receiving the lens, I did not conduct a true "technical" test (who would trust my results anyway). I made sure that it was OK "physically" and then I just shot with it and evaluated the results against what I was trying to achieve.

I cannot comment on its use with an APS Digital body as I only shoot film. I think 30 days is plenty of time to shoot a few rolls of E6 film and evaluate the results. I'll bet, since I read your bio, that you can keep an eye on your film while it is being processed. On top of that, you have the added luxury of being able to try this lens as a "super wide" zoom and as a "wide to normal" zoom.

Cheers! Jay

Hello Robert:

John Shaw wrote some very good books that explain the use of close-up attachments on various lens types and compares them to macro equipment. They also detail other equipment requirements (some that you can easily make at home) and techniques. One is called "John Shaws Nature Photography Field Guide" and another is "Close-ups in Nature." These are very common sense (useful) guides and they do not get bogged down in formulas and theories etc. If you can only get one book, the Nature Photography Field Guide covers close-ups adequately and also has very good info on other topics.

Cheers! Jay

Hello Jeffery:

I have used my EOS 3 with two, non IS, L lenses in temperatures down to -30 C. I have not had a battery (nor any other) problem so far. I use the BP-E1 with nimh rechargeable batteries plus a Cr5 (which is loaded into the portion of the BP-E1 that slides onto the camera body grip). The BP-E1 has a switch enabling power to be fed from the AA batteries or from the Cr5. This allows you to keep shooting, if need be, until you can change the AAs. You can also get spare AA battery trays for the BP-E1 so you can pre- load the trays, carry them in a warm pocket and pop them in the BP-E1 in the field with little fuss. If you need to recharge in the field where there is no power, solar battery chargers are available. I have never used one so I cannot comment on their effectiveness.

Note that the BP-E1 does not have camera controls (shutter button, AE Lock Button or control wheel) nor does it increase shooting speed. If you need these functions use you may want to consider a PB-E1 (no control wheel) or PB-E2 (shutter button, AE lock button and control wheel).

A very important cold weather consideration (which you probably already know) is that you must zip the cold camera equipment into a case before you go into a heated environment. If you don?t, moisture from the warmer air will condense on your camera and lens. This moisture may actually freeze leaving a layer of frost/ice over your entire camera/lens assembly. This will coat any glass and may effect the proper function of camera control interfaces. If it happens it will take the camera out of service until the moisture is removed - - keep this in mind if you want to duck into a heated tent for a quick hot coffee.

Cheers! Jay

Mars C

As you requested, I offer this correction (pasted from EOS 3 Manual):

"About Eye-Control AF. Eye-Control AF enables you to focus at where you look within the area AF ellipse in the viewfinder. The camera instantly detects where your eye is looking and activates the corresponding focusing point (among the 45) to focus. Eye-Control AF works in both horizontal and vertical camera orientations."

I use an EOS 3 and I am quite certain that "eye control focus" does not activate "automatic focus point selection." If it works for you, ECF is a great functional asset to a camera body. It can be switched off when it is not needed, or if it gets in the way (I use it nearly all the time).

The only drawback to ECF that I can see is that it does not work well for all (or at least enough) users. That, in my opinion, is why it is not used in 'Pro' (EOS 1x) and 'Consumer' digital bodies.

Cheers! Jay

Hello Juan:

If a canon flash is out of your price range, and you can manage without ETTL, I would recommend the sunpak "383 super" (I think they are approximately US70.00 ea - new). I have two of these and they are very capable (manual control and both hot shoe + pc connector). The only thing they are missing is a zoom head.

There are some very good used Nikon flashes available. They have many better features than the canon units.

I also have a canon 420 EX. It is fine for ETTL when connected to the appropriate canon body, but, it does not have manual control and it does not have a pc connector (flash shoe only).

There is a wireless canon flash system but it is expensive.

If you have questions about flash look into the links below. The first link (Strobist) has lots of good info on using "off camera" manual flash (including equipment recommendations). I strongly recommend you look at Strobist before you spend money on a dedicated Canon flash. The 2nd link is all about canon flash systems.

http://strobist.blogspot.com/

http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/

Cheers! Jay

Hello Andy:

do a google search on "lens hood cap". There are lots of links.

Also see http://www.lenscoat.com/. You might be interested in their product as well.

Cheers! Jay

"Does this mean that Canon may announce a successor to 5D before next summer?"

I do not know about that.....but....the huge rebate offers DO confirm (to me at least) that DSLR buyers are being gouged.

Cheers! Jay

Hello Andy:

I hear ya. Those bodies are so far out of my $$ orbit that I never look at the prices. I was referring to the 30D (although I was not specific in my post). It is US1150 @ B&H and CAN1499 @ Henrys.

Cheers! Jay

In my experience, the sales tax is rarely (if ever) part of the advertised retail price here in Canada. There is no duty on Canon equipment when you purchase these items in the US and legally ship them to Canada. I do not believe that I pay duty on Fuji film either, but I would have to check. If I do, it isn't much and I save big bucks buying from the US.

For example: Provia 100F is nearly $11.79/roll here in Ontario...BEFORE you add the 14% tax (no, that does not include processing). Presently, I need about $1.15 Canadian to buy US1.00. Provia 100 @ B&H = US4.49. 4.49 x 1.15 = Can5.16. I save $6.63/roll. Multiply that by 60 rolls /year (or more)! Oh Yeah, Provia 400 is $18.99/roll before tax!

The cost of shipping is usually offset by the sales tax savings (due to the lower price) and it helps to buy film in 20 roll bricks...as if any of you guys are interested in film...the same may apply to digital consumables. I also saved money on inkjet supplies.

I asked the people at Henry's Toronto store (via email...they are online at Henry's.com) why prices are so much higher and they did not give me a response. I don't believe the BS about the "small Canadian market"...the US/Can cost disparity on other items (including autos and luxury/hobby stuff) is not always as big as the one that exists in the photo marketplace. And Hey...If they were serious about expanding their market they would lower their prices.

I have also noticed that the huge price differences do not apply to all photo gear. For example, I save a lot of money buying film, lens, accessories (eg., filtres, Pocket Wizards, flashes, light stands and light modifiers) from the US. However, there is very little to be saved in buying a digital slr body from the US and shipping it to Canada.

I believe Cannucks are "paying the price" for a lack of competition in the Canadian photo equipment/materials market. There seems to be very few distributors supplying/controlling this market. My advice to other Cannucks.....check the prices at the reliable US online retailers before you buy in Canada. Do not screw with the Canadian Government and try to avoid the taxes...it is not worth it.

Hey, I am as patriotic as anyone else! I would buy my "Japanese products" in Canada if they were reasonable. But, I'd still be shooting my FD kit, and not nearly as often as I would like, if my only other option had been to buy an EOS kit plus film here at home.

Cheers! Jay

Hello:

I am also waiting for Canon to build a reasonably-priced (note that I did not say cheap) DSLR based on the EOS 3 -- complete with ECF. I'll keep my EOS 3, shoot Provia and scan until they do so.

Cheers! Jay