thierry nguyen cuu - nomad

David,

After reading all the responses, I forgot about the threat :)

I think that most of 5D users are Film photographers who don't like to convert the reach of their lens.

I've been myself shooting Nikon for a long time, and I turned to Canon the time I found that my D200 body was made in Thailand, my DX lenses were made in China, the lense cap from Taiwan, My SB800 was made in mexico ...

The main reason in fact is that I fell in love with the L series lenses, and everything is Made in Japan.

What is the main difference between the 30D and the 5D?

IMO, the main difference is x1,6.

Let's talk numbers (and $)

30D sensor x 1,6 = 5D sensor in term of megapixel (Nothing really new though ...)

Take the size of the 5D sensor, divide it two times by (1,6) and you'll have the size of the 30D sensor.

What's the point here? Well what I'm saying is at same image size the 30D and the 5D have exactly the same resolution i.e details.

They both have Digic II...

So the main difference so far between the 5D and the 30D (always talking numbers) is Price of 5D divides by 1,6 IS NOT equal to price of 30D (but more expensive).

So for the difference of price, I'll be happy to "leg zoom" to catch up with the 1,6 factor :)

A few steps forward or backward should be enough in most situations (Portrait, landscape ...). In sport photography , the 1,6 factor is a bonus.

And yeah, I've printed 20'' x 32 '' with shoots I pulled out from my previous 20D (With a little help of CS2 I regcon)

The 5D offers a wider range of ISO though (and a few more invisible focus points).

I've been longtime pulling hair off my head before I decided for the 30D, and some lenses.

I'm covering from 16mm to 320 mm with my 30D (10-22 EF-S, 14-70 L, 24-70 L, 20-105 L, 50 f1.4, 100 f2.8 Macro, 70-200 IS L) and keep buying lenses :)

My Advice would be: Go for the body you feel the most attracted to. When you'll have the body of your dreams, you'll find the cash to fit it with decent lenses... with some sacrifices ...

There are a lot of guys (and girls) out there, shooting with the 300 rebell and 350 XT, and have their shoots published in magazines ...

Before you wipe your credit card, I'd reccomend to check dpreview.com (both cameras are reviewed here with shot tests). For the lenses the best so far is thegigitalpicture.com

And yes, I will go FF on the replacement of the 5D.

Merry Xmas

Ester,

It all depends on your stock of lenses. If you don't have any EF-S lens yet, it's more likely to switch to the 5D, especially if you want to turn pro.

The 10-22 with the 30D is about 16-35 in 35mm equivalent.

I dont know a bout the price of the 10-22 but by selling the 30D you may invest into a 5D + 17-40 f4 L for a not really big difference (on top).

Budget is one of our worse ennemy but if you want to pull the $$ out of your it's worth to spend the cash where it could last.

Personally i'm shooting with a 30D and don't have any issue with focussing...

And yeah, the FF give you more flexibility and creativity.

I agree with mark with M mode rather than Tv or Av.

And it still depends on where you will be from the runway, and which lens will be used (considering that you're not going to switch lens all the way long).

Models tend to walk quite fast so you need some fast speed but you still need to control the background/depth of field so the best way to go is definitely M.

Keep your speed unchanged (raising ISO if needed) while tweaking aperture and/or flash compensation as explained by Mark.

I have 2 580EX and when using one as master and the other as slave, you can have full control of the slave from the master.

For more infos about the ST-E2 functionalities and control: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=product.jsp&A=kitInfo&Q=&sku=164264&is=REG

According to BHphotovideo.com you can do all from your questions above.

Hum... This sounds very strange.

What I would recommend is to go to a shop in your area with your 2 bodies, try to sit a 17-40L from the shop on both of them.

If you have the same effect with your own 17-40L, then your 30D might need some help. Try your 17-40L with a 30D from the store ...

Somehow, it wouldn't explain why all your other lenses work well with the 30D.

BTW, what are your other lenses? Are they all 'L' ?

Chris,

Did you try to trigger the strobes with your built in flash head?

With the 580EX, there is a pre flash, from the flash head, to send information of the exposure to the body (via the ST-E2)... This shouldn't affect the shot by itself, but it sounds like your strobes are triggered by the preflash.

I've used my 20D with it's built in flash to trigger some studio flash without any problem.

I didn't use any wireless controller to trigger off flash usnit though.

Hope this could help.

Well well...

I've been shooting Nikon for a while when i decided to switch to Canon.

What i can say is the most important thing to consider is: how do you feel using such or such body. Of course your feeling is up to your budget.

I'd say that the 400D is the last release, so it is more likely the 'best' techno, and it inherits from the higher range techno as well.

If the difference between 8MP and 10MP is not significant, i still beleive that the more you have the better it is :)

Go for the 400D and invest to good glasses with the saved $ from the 30D

"Also any tips on where to buy cheaply in New Zealand would be great."

ebay? check for your local customs policies: i think that orders from overseas under 1000 NZD is free of taxes.

Cheers

Here is something I shot with a 24-105 on a 30D body.

Shot in RAW and converted in JPEG with RSE -no PP-<div></div>

Thank you for your comments.

The 10-22 was my last purchase. At that time I had to think deeply either to have a EF-S lens or not.

And because I needed an ultra wide lens and I couldn't afford a 17-40 (16-35) and a FF body at the same time.

Cruel world :).

I think that the only way to 'get rid of it' is to take a shot.

I remember beeing stuck with the * for a while, even when recomposing and several half shutter depresses. It was still there until you take a shot.

I'm using a 30D, after a 20D, and own a few glasses: 10-22, 50 f1,4, 100 f2,8

macro, 70-200 f2,8 IS and of course the 24-105 f4 IS.

It's been a while that i'm looking at a 24-70 f2,8 and/or the 5D.

So my big concern is which size to choose? The bigger size of the 24-70

aperture or the size of the FF?

The best option so far is to get them both... and I may need to play lotto for

that :)

You're right.

I made a mistake about the price.

I was obvisously comparing the price of the 16-35 f2.8 and the 17-40 f4.

Thanks for your comment Mark.

I agree that manual focus is the most accurate for macro. I just wanted to try something funny :)

Since macro photography is motion sensitive, what do you thing of AI SERVO focusing?

I'm using a 30D with a 100 f2.8 Macro.<div></div>

If I could, i would have the whole collection of L lenses :)

From the time i can not afford them all, i try to get to the limit of the one I already have.

I have a 24-105 on a 30D and for the extra dollars, i got two 580EX so I can have the light when i need.

But because I shoot indoor more than outdoor, and the flash don't give the same (wanted) effect, I consider to get a 24-70 and the extra stop.

The 24-70 is twice the price of the 24-104, but il lets twice as much light through ...

So if the price is not your primary concern, i'll highly recomend the 24-70 f2,8

Cheers

James,

Just wondering, is it a long range lens hat your are talking about?

If it's very bright and you use a long range lens @ f4, you'll probably have a short DOP and a ... burned out background...

So you may need to go for M mode and spot expose on your subject.

If you're using a wide angle, the best solution, in my opinion, for fill in here is to use a reflector to bounce the light back on your subject.

James, you got it.

Hum...

Just for fun: let's say that i wanted to understand how the camera, and the 100 f2,8 macro lens behave when they are stuck together.

These tests have been made with a 30D body, all in Tv mode.

When i set a "high" speed, the maximum aperture value blinks to tell me that i am under exposing.

If i want to keep the "high" speed, to compensate, i need to raise the ISO till the aperture stop blinking (good exposure)

Test 1. 30D + 10-22 EF-S

Raising ISO: MAX aperture stop blinking (@ an apropriate ISO value)

Test 2. 30D + 50 f1,4

Raising ISO: MAX aperture stop blinking (@ an apropriate ISO value)

Test 3. 30D + 24-105 f4 L IS

Raising ISO: MAX aperture stop blinking (@ an apropriate ISO value)

Test 4. 30D + 70-200 f2,8 L IS

Raising ISO: MAX aperture stop blinking (@ an apropriate ISO value)

Test 5. 30D + 100 f2,8 Macro

Raising ISO = aperture stops down.

The more i raise the ISO the more the aperture stops down.

So i will never have a good exposure (keep in mind that i want to keep my speed value)

Therefor, no matter what the purpose with macro and speed are for. The main concern here is the behavior of the 100 f2,8 Macro in Tv mode.

Sorry if i wasn't clear in my first question.

Thanks for your answer.

My primary concern is the Aperture behavior when raising ISO in Tv mode.

Let's say that i want a speed of 1/1000 in Tv mode, and let the camera set the aperture. When the maximum aperture is reached, i have to compensate by raising ISO (otherwise, i'll under expose)

But when i raise ISO, in Tv mode, the aperture stops down, and i end up still under exposing :)

So, in Tv mode, can you really use the 1/8000 speed @ ISO 100, without shoting directly to the sun to get some "well" exposed shots ?

Hi there,

I'm playing around using a 30D body and a 100 mm f2,8 macro.

I wanted high speed macro shots and had to increase ISO to use speed over

1/1000.

I noticed that increasing ISO, to somewhere above 1250, stops down the lens

aperture.

I ended up with an aperture set to 32 (in Tv mode) ...

Any ideas?

Try this:

1.Turn the flash off.

2.Switch to P mode, read the mettering.

3.Switch to M mode and set the Speed and Aperture according to the readings in P mode (in step 2). Turn the flash on.

The flash acts only with the aperture and NOT with the speed.

Start shooting and check the LCD.

If you want more background/foreground, tweak the aperture but keep the speed UNCHANGED.

Enjoy.

IK,

You didn't mention about your budget.

If you need a (versatile) good lens with a good value for the money, i'd reccomand the 24-105 f4 L IS. It's "slower" than the 24-70 f2,8 but the IS allow you to shoot 3 steps slower, and has a longer reach.

If you need a wider capture the 10-22 is one of the best wide angle for the APS-C size censor.

Of course the 16-35 f2,6 L is the top of the list but the price puts it out of reach of common shooters :)

I have the 20D and 30D with 50f1,4, 24-105 f4 L IS, 100 f2,8 Macro, 70-200 f2,8 L IS. I'd say that i'm a lot more confident when shooting in low light condition with IS lenses.

The best place to have complete reviews on everything CANON, in my opinion,

is www.the-digital-picture.com

If you stick in APS-Csize censor, the EF-S 18-55 f2,8 IS is the must.

Hope this could help.

Happy shooting

IK,

You didn't mention about your budget.

If you need a (versatile) good lens with a good value for the money, i'd reccomand the 24-105 f4 L IS. It's "slower" than the 24-70 f2,8 but the IS allow you to shoot 3 steps slower, and has a longer reach.

If you need a wider capture the 10-22 is one of the best wide angle for the APS-C size censor.

Of course the 16-35 f2,6 L is the top of the list but the price puts it out of reach of common shooters :)

I have the 20D and 30D with 50f1,4, 24-105 f4 L IS, 100 f2,8 Macro, 70-200 f2,8 L IS. I'd say that i'm a lot more confident when shooting in low light condition with IS lenses.

The best place to have complete reviews on everything CANON, in my opinion, is www.the-digital-picture.com

If you stick in APS-Csize censor, the EF-S 18-55 f2,8 IS is the must.

Hope this could help.

Happy shooting

I beleive that in the listed lenses here, the 70-200 IS f2,8 is the best one for portraiture.

The long end of the lens allows a very nice blurred background and the sharpness is far better than the 2 other lenses mentioned.

I have the 24-105 and the 70-200 IS, but it happens that i sometimes use the 100 f2,8 macro for portrait as well, the macro thing allows me a big range of focus working distance :) .

This is, in my opinion, the best website for anything CANON, you may find some usefull info here: http://www.the-digital-picture.com/

Cheers.

I have a D200 and i have the same err message problem and also need to release the shutter to get rid of it.

The first time i got this err message was when i hooked a 70-200 2.8 VR lens for shot outdoor (not extreme but cold condition).

I though it was a contact problem so i tried to unmount and re mount the lens: nothing better... i end up pulling out the battery and put it back in.

Since i keep having the err message anytime with any lens and without lens on it: it happens after the first shoot when the camera is turned on.

I did try to shoot with or without a lens, with or without the vertical grip (with 1 or 2 batteries) diffrent CF cards ... same thing.

I ended up giving it back to Nikon for service. I'm still waiting for it to come back.

Till there i'm still investigating of the origin of this message ...