hermestr2000

thanks for the answers folks, I will try various recipes you have provided and post the scans to this forum by the end of this months...

istanbuldan selamlar dimitri...:)

I have an upcoming project about theatrical performances, where I will shot

B&W and develop personally. I would like to hear your recommendations and

experiences on similiar projects, about film, developer, developing times,

lens of choice, etc.

It would be great to se your photos if available...

Thanks...

here is a table for correction of reciprocity effect taken from Ansel Adams book the Negative:

Exposure time | Aperture Adustment | or Time adjustment(in sec.)

1/100.000 | 1 stop more | use aperture adj.

1/10.000 | 1/2 stop more | use aperture adj.

1/1000 | none | none

1/100 | none | none

1 | 1 stop more | 2

10 | 2 stops more | 50

100 | 3 stops more | 1200

set your camera mode to Manual, turn of the on camera flash from the menu. By a second hand or cheap on head flash (TUMAX). Insert into your hotshoe. Cover the front of your flash like yu do. Check that your camera shutter speed is equal or below flash sync speed. It is near 1/200 or 1/250 for most cameras.

Hope this helps...

Kodak TRI-X 400 ASA should be fine for all situations. It has finer grain than TMAX 400. You can easily push the film 1 f-stop with no problem at all. (That means you can shoot at 800 ASA). I must warn that the grain size will be disturbing at enlargements above 30 cm x 40cm.

You may only need an 3200 ASA film in indoors at low light photography, like in concerts where the lights are dim and people on the stage are moving...<div></div>