peter_b__sydney_

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<p>I have searched for at least an hour now for any other thread detailing a stuck shutter cocking lever & button to no avail until I saw this small sentence above ! The shutter cocking lever and button on my Mamiya C330f has suddenly started to stick after I (wind on the next frame of the film then) depress it. It returns after I give it a little nudge back up. This is with or without any lens in place. Any suggestions as to how I could fix this ?</p>

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<p>I managed to identify and fix the problem which I detailed <a href="http://goo.gl/Nv4wcl">here </a> http://goo.gl/Nv4wcl</p>

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<p>I've had stuck shutter buttons.</p>

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<p>I have searched for at least an hour now for any other thread detailing a stuck shutter cocking lever & button to no avail until I saw this small sentence above !<br>

The shutter cocking lever and button on my Mamiya C330f has suddenly started to stick after I (wind on the next frame of the film then) depress it. It returns after I give it a little nudge back up. This is with or without any lens in place.<br>

Any suggestions as to how I could fix this ?</p>

<p>>Where did you find 3mm thick (roughly 1/8") black foam rubber? For just $1.30 no less? <br>

Hi Thaddeus ,<br>

I purchased a foam kit for my C330f when I replaced the door seal. I bought it from Jon Goodman on eBay, his website/instructions are here:<br>

<a href="http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/sealreplacement.html">http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/sealreplacement.html</a><br>

I then used foam from that same kit to redo my viewing screen recently. I can't remember if I checked for the exact thickness but it certainly works well.</p>

I'll limit my responses to the following APUG

thread and summarise here once I have solved

the problem.

http://goo.gl/rQI0l

<p>Christiaan, thanks for chiming in. I appear to be getting inconsistent results. One set of measurements results in no discrepancies, another does. I have been doing this testing at distances of 0.6m, 3m, 15m and about 80m.<br>

I did notice a brass shim seated in the thread of the taking lens' front elements. I can try and take it out or swap it to the viewing lens. I'll also check the other things you mention.<br>

<br />Through searching, I am discovering that calibrating the focus of a TLR is not necessarily an easy job, well I mean it doesn't seem to be documented fully in one place (except I assume in my camera's service manual which I really need to purchase for about $35 on eBay - yet by the time it arrives I probably would have solved the problem !!).<br />Up until now I haven't worried about ensuring the taking lens focuses properly at infinity. (see <a href="http://goo.gl/0G2EY" target="_blank">here</a> , <a href="http://goo.gl/PSg8q" target="_blank">here </a>and <a href="http://goo.gl/y7oih" target="_blank">here</a>). Some posts also indicate the distance scale needs to be correctly aligned. I don't even use my distance scale. I'm learning about backsighting, collimation etc. etc. Why haven't those points been mentioned in any C330 discussions I have read ?</p>

<p>Arrgh. I just checked my focus again this morning after changing nothing and it is off again. I thought I had this problem licked :( The only things I haven't yet tried are<br>

1. adjusting the mirror 2. swapping lens shims 3. adjusting the 3 factory trimmed vertical posts in the body that press against the underside of the viewing screen.<br>

The discrepancy distance is about 0.6mm horizontal movement of the focus rail.<br>

Can anybody give me any other suggestions to try ?</p>

<p>HI Carl,<br>

Thank you indeed for posting the steps you took. In response to them I re-foamed the viewing assembly for my C330f. It clearly needed to be done since sharp focusing below f5.6 wasn't possible, however it didn't solve the discrepancy between the viewing focus and the image on a focus screen I constructed for the film plane. Before I detail my problems, I'll add some advice for others changing their viewing assembly foam.</p>

<p>I was able to predict before changing the foam that it wouldn't have made a difference by dabbing some slow drying ink onto the 3 posts in the C330f's body then putting the screen assembly back onto the camera, removing it and seeing 3 ink dots transferred to the underside of the screen. This was despite my foam being in poor condition.</p>

<p>For others reading this thread, the two problems causing my discrepancy were as follows:</p>

<ol>

<li>The top of the lens plate/board was able to rock back and forth by about 1mm because the stiff retaining wire didn't press on it when latched as it should. I solved that problem by inserting a small piece of sheet metal (LxWxH about 2mm x 3mm x 1mm) to take up the slack.</li>

<li>I had previously swapped the front of the viewing and taking lens with each other. This was because I had a small amount of fungus on the taking lens. After considering this might have been the problem I noticed that both lens bodies had different thickness shims between them and the lens plate, also the filter thread of the viewing lens was about 0.5mm further forward than that on the taking lens. After I swapped them back again the focus was identical (to within limits of repeatability).</li>

</ol>

<p>The amount the focus was out was a distance of 0.6mm linear travel of the bellows and about 2.2mm circumferential rotation of the focus knob.</p>

<p>Thanks for sharing that image Jay. Do you mind if I ask what paper you printed it on and whether you toned the print or not ?<br>

thanks<br>

Peter</p>

<p>FWIW, I gave up looking for the orginal metal lens hood and will now get a cheaper rubber one. My lens has a filter thread diameter 46mm. I found out the need for this the hard way by noticing way too much flare in some otherwise nice photos. I'm even thinking of using Farmer's reducer on the print or negs to deal with that flare !</p>

<p>I'm also about to perform the following film calibration testing for my C330 with the 80mm black lens.<br>

http://www.apug.org/forums/viewpost.php?p=1122485</p>

<p>The stouffer transmission step wedge is small so I need to focus as close as possible and must compensate for both parallax by raising the tripod (camera is level) and exposure by using the multiplier pointed to by the red line in the viewfinder that moves down into view upon focusing close.</p>