vitor fonseca

<p>The Minolta MD 35-70/3.5 uses a clip-on hood.<br>

You see a photo of the hood : <a href="

If the hood is a screw on it should be 55mm to attach to the filter thread. Can you post some image of the lens?<br>

More information about the lens: <a href="http://wiki.vitorfonseca.com/MinoltaMD35-70mmf35ZOOM.ashx">http://wiki.vitorfonseca.com/MinoltaMD35-70mmf35ZOOM.ashx</a></p>

<p>The photos of Joel Meyerowitz on that link seem to be taken in E6 and C41.<br>

For example my bet is that #1 on that page is on E6.<br>

The #2 seems C41 film, and I would say Fuji Pro 400H.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>LR 3 as already a profile for correcting distortions SEL16/2.8</p>

<p>The drivers for Minolta DiMAGE 5400 II doesn't work with the Minolta DiMAGE 5400. You will need to install the proper version.<br>

There isn't a version for Windows 7, you should install the one for Windows XP. Follow the links previously provided to make the software work under Windows 7.</p>

<p>For installing the Minolta 5400 under Windows 7 see <a href="http://wiki.vitorfonseca.com/Installing-Minolta-DiMAGE-Scan-Elite-5400-under-Windows-7.ashx">here</a> or the link Shiang Wang posted.<br>

Regarding Firewire (IEEE1394) usage. I haven't found a way to make it work. Trying to use the Firewire port always ended with scanner stop responding. I had to power cycle the scanner to be able to communicate with it again.<br>

Using USB is the only solution. <strong>The connection is USB 2.0</strong>. On previous tests I did under Windows XP the speed difference was minimal compared to Firewire (IEEE1394).</p>

<p>The NEX as no issue with focusing.<br>

Sony as just introduced a neat feature with the latest firmware update called focus peaking (see <a href="

) that aids when doing MF.<br>

The color of the focus aid can be selected between white, yellow or red(the one I use).</p>

 

<p>It seems to be the same scanner as the Reflecta MF5000. <br>

<a href="https://reflecta.de/en/products/detail/~id.425/reflecta-MidformatScan-MF5000--from-june-2011-available.html">https://reflecta.de/en/products/detail/~id.425/reflecta-MidformatScan-MF5000--from-june-2011-available.html</a><br>

The reflecta was announced as having a retail price of 1500€</p>

 

<p>If you are going the Pixel Pawn Soldier route you can mix any sort of flashes. You can use Nikon, Canon, Sony or Minolta.<br>

You just need to guarantee that the receiver is the correct model for the flash being used.<br>

I'm currently using two Metz 54 MZ3 with SCA adapter for Minolta/Sony and one Minolta 5400HS.<br>

The 5400HS is able to go from 1/1 to 1/32 power ratio. The Metz can go from 1/1 to 1/256 with intermediate values.</p>

 

<p>Don't know if this information was already posted here before.<br>

There is a website that is trying to index the available film processing photolabs world wide.<br>

<a href="http://www.photomfa.com/">http://www.photomfa.com/</a><br>

IMO seems a good idea and I have already contributed with my share. </p>

<p>Hello Richard,<br>

I got one this year that I'm using regularly with XE-1 and X-500 cameras.<br>

This lens its considered optically better than its successor, MC W.Rokkor 20mm f/2.8, sharper, lower field curvature and produces less vignetting wide open.<br>

See the bellow links with discussion about this lens.<br>

<a href="http://www.artaphot.ch/lenses/209-minolta-21mm-128-mc">http://www.artaphot.ch/lenses/209-minolta-21mm-128-mc</a><br>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/groups/14411702@N00/discuss/72157621805608733/">http://www.flickr.com/groups/14411702@N00/discuss/72157621805608733/</a><br /><br /></p>

<p>Fuji Superia 400 is targeted as a consumer film, while the others you have used are targeted as professional film. <br>

As Robert as said, the grainy look you refer could be either a results of under exposure or is a normal ISO 400 rated emulsion. Comparing that with ISO 100/160 film will give you more grain.<br>

I never used Superia 400, but have used X-Tra 400 and what I have done is to rate it EI 200, this means I have loaded the camera and set the ISO rating on the camera as ISO 200, this will give less grain.<br>

Additionally I try to carefully meter the scene to avoid underexposure, most of the time I set my metering to spot meter and adjust the reading.</p>

<p><img src="http://www.vitorfonseca.com/Portfolio/Places/Portugal,%20Lisboa/slides/Image_2010-010-0007.jpg" alt="" /><a href="http://www.vitorfonseca.com/Portfolio/Places/Portugal,%20Lisboa/slides/Image_2010-010-0007_pt.html">http://www.vitorfonseca.com/Portfolio/Places/Portugal,%20Lisboa/slides/Image_2010-010-0007_pt.html</a></p>

<p><img src="http://www.vitorfonseca.com/Portfolio/Places/Portugal,%20Lisboa/slides/Image_2010-010-0002.jpg" alt="" /><br>

<a href="http://www.vitorfonseca.com/Portfolio/Places/Portugal,%20Lisboa/slides/Image_2010-010-0002_pt.html">http://www.vitorfonseca.com/Portfolio/Places/Portugal,%20Lisboa/slides/Image_2010-010-0002_pt.html</a></p>

<p>"I wasn't aware that Portra 800 had NC and VC types ..."<br>

It doesn't, there is only one version of Portra 800.</p>

<p>IMO its quite amazing, optically, excellent build and handling.<br /> Its a specialized lens, meaning it won't be for everyone, but those who use it just swear its pure magic, the lens was built with priority for Bokeh rendition, but its amazingly sharp at the focus position.<br /> Normally we see samples from flowers, inanimate objects but not many portraits.<br /> See dyxum article about it, explaining the optics<br /> http://www.dyxum.com/columns/articles/lenses/SAL-135F28/Sony-AF-135-STF-SAL-135F28_review.asp<br /> STF dedicated site<br /> http://www.the135stf.net/</p>

<p>If you will be using flash, the X-5x0 as an aditional mode that is pretty handy, if you press the AEL button the camera will balance the flash exposure with ambient light.</p>