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tony_lockerbie

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Everything posted by tony_lockerbie

  1. <p>Nice results as you would expect from a Rokkor, and I really like your water tanks....used to be JDM's favourite subject. Must admit that I rarely use anything longer than 135, pretty slack as I have a nice 300mm F4L Canon, and a Nikkor 300mm F4.5ED. One lens that I keep going to use is an old Schneider 360mm Tele-Xenar, but it is way too big to get into my bag. Your post has inspired me to use it, and I do have a film in the Spotmatic...so no excuse!</p>
  2. <p>Wow, one year before I was born! As always the ads are a treat, and Kodak were certainly big in cameras back then....how the mighty have fallen.</p>
  3. <p>Just saw you last post regarding the extra cameras...well done! I think that the Consol is just another name for the Contax S? Anyway, the Biotar is great as Rick recently has shown, and that 50mm Ultron is cetainly one of the best fifties that has ever been made....but then I am a Voigtlander tragic :)</p>
  4. <p>Most people believe that the Rodenstock lenses are just like the Schneiders, and that is probably correct. I do have a Ysarex for my Retina S, and I like it more than the Xenar, otherwise I feel that the Heliogons are much the same as the Xenons, although the Rodenstocks are that bit more exclusive.<br> As for the accessory lenses on the 111C, I did use them a bit, but soon gave the idea away! I much prefer the 111S when using extra lenses, so much more convenient, although it doesn't fold of course. As Dinis has said, you can use these on the first model Retina Reflex, if you can find a good working one.<br> All that said, the 111C with the standard 5omm lens is a wonderful thing to use, and turns in great pictures.</p>
  5. <p>Thank you all for the positive comments, sorry it's a bit late but my computer crashed....lucky our cameras are more reliable!<br> I didn't realize that the 85 was a bit scarce as I have had it so long, sure to treasure it a bit more now. Marc, you are right about the current demand for the 85-105 lens range, but they are a very useful focal lenghth.<br> I have always liked the 90's on the Leica cameras, and the Takumar is, as I have said, not so much bigger than the 50mm 1.4.<br> You are right Dave, I would have preferred a 135 for the flames picture!<br> Chuck, the time I have always used for Tri-X at 400 is 9.5 mins, that works for me, so the under development here was for a minute and a half. I think we use the massive dev chart as a guide only, we all have our own way of working. Usually develop Tri-X in Pyrocat these days but I was given a quantity of D76 that needs using.<br> I must admit that I more often under develop Tri-X rather than over develop, just to get that shadow detail. Also scored some of the new APX400, so I will see how that goes.</p>
  6. <p>Most pics taken around F8-5.6, Tri-X rated at 200 and processed in D76 1:1 for 8 mins. I found the 85mm focal length really useful here, that little of extra reach really helps, and I felt that the Takumar performed well, with super smooth focusing like all Takumars. Thanks for looking.</p>
  7. <p>People often espouse the idea of using just one lens when on an outing. I usually lack such discipline, packing my bag with back breaking amounts of gear because I just can't decide what to take.<br> This weekend, the nearby town of Bega had it's annual old machinery display weekend, so I thought that this would be an opportunity to test the one camera/ one lens strategy. I chose my black Spotmatic and an underused Takumar 85mm. Turned out to be a good decision, as the 85 gave a really good point of view and is hardly any bigger than the fast fifties.<br> This lens turns in a sharp image with quite pleasing oof areas, although I couldn't open it up too much due to the very bright sun and the Tri-X I was using. I would normally load Pan F for this kind of work, but I knew that the contrast would be extreme, so opted for the softer Tri-X, rated at 200 and under developed...seemed to work ok.<br> Here is the camera and a few images.</p> <div></div>
  8. <p>Not familiar with the Agifold as such, but have used a lot of folders. The lenses are generally quite good, even the cheaper triplets can produce a sharp image. Problem with many old folders is that the lens is not aligned or parallel to the film plane, the cheaper the folder, the more likely this is to occur.<br> You can check the focus bu using a piece of ground glass or frosted plastic placed where the film runs, and point it at a bright subject with the lens wide open, then see if this coincides with what the rangefinder is showing, or if no rf, then the distance that is inscribed on the lens. If the lens standard is wonky, then one side of the image may be sharp, while the other is soft.<br> Some folders, particularly the 6x9's also have issues with the film staying flat. Really you have to try and buy one for little outlay and keep your fingers crossed :) They are really rewarding when you find a good one,and I have found that the Zeiss ones are best...even the little 6x6 Nettar with the Novar lens performs extremely well. </p>
  9. <p>If it is advancing and firing then the battery is probably ok. Check that the film is well attached to the take up spool, when the film is on securely, close the back and advance two frames...the rewind knob should rotate in the opposite direction if the film is going through ok.<br> Also check to see if the rewind button underneath is not stuck in the up position. The advance sprocket in the camera should only move in a clockwise direction. If it moves freely back and forth, and the rewind button is down...then you have an issue with the advance mechanism. Unfortunately this requires a trip to the repair man.<br> Good luck, and let us know how it goes.</p>
  10. <p>I'll keep with the Russians, and these are with the Kiev also, fitted with a Jupiter 3 50mm 1.5.</p><div></div>
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