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tedms gallery

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  1. <p>for front/back focus, there is a test pdf you can find on the web that is graduated with high contrast bars, with a thick one for the target.<br>

    I'd recommend getting a protractor, or consider verifying focus by shooting objects straight on with known objects in front of, and behind the target, at known distance intervals.<br>

    You'll need to pick an aperture to start at, or index with, and for me, that is usually wide open.<br>

    If you notice focus changing with the focus locked at the on-focus point for wide open, when stopping down, then you are observing focus shift, where your single point of focus may drift, and your whole window of DOF may move.<br>

    I wrote up about this on my blog about a week ago, with some manual lens - tedmphoto.blogspot.com</p>

     

  2. <p>For both UV/IR, and IR (Hoya R72), I use 49mm filters in Leica 12504 S7 hoods. I put a very small rubber band around the threads of the 49 mm filters, and they tighten up very well in the 12504 hoods.<br>

    When not using any filter, I use a 12526 rect. hood on the pre-asph lux to reduce flare better than the round one.</p>

  3. <p>I use the ltm version of the CV 21/4, same optics, different barrel and mount (P version is larger). I don't use an external VF, but do have to estimate the edges, about 10% outside what is viewable in the whole of the M8 VF.<br>

    No coding. There is no code for CV lenses in M8/M9 cameras.<br>

    No IR/UV filter, but I keep one handy in case I plan to shoot speaker grille covers, or extensive black synthetics.<br>

    Here are some examples of outdoor daylight use with the 21/4 CV ltm lens on an M8:<br>

    http://matsumura.smugmug.com/Photography/M8-CV-214-ltm-lens-photos-in/10941070_oe2nV#764326043_Mi447</p>

  4. <p>You will probably not be able to capture the real cat's eyes with an SLR. The cat's eye will react to the mirror movement, and their eyes will change color. <br>

    I have been able to capture the correct eye color of the cat with rangefinders and fast lens.</p>

  5. <p>Haven't compared them, but I own and use the 12 element one with rect. rear. One thing that might help those with flare is the standard hood for this is much too short, IMO, especially if using with a filter. Try using a longer generic 52mm hood. I also have a Sigma 70-300, but would much rather crop the 200 (if I really needed to) than use the Sigma @ 300, which gets very slow, and has some significant CA with contrasty images.<br>

    Both are probably very good, but I think later 12 element is probably improved. I don't think Zooms ever got better than this one, just more features added like AF, IS, plastic, etc.</p>

  6. <p>If so, what are your experiences, and do you currently have any galleries or images at zivity.com ?</p>

    <p>I first browsed the site yesterday, and did a mini review of it on my blog:</p>

    <p>tedmphoto.blogspot.com</p>

    <p>I'd be curious about any feedback you have on the site, and the business model they are using with regards to photographers.</p>

    <p>I was also given an email address which is on my blog that can be used to receive an invitation for a 30 day trial there, with no need to submit a credit card.</p>

    <p>I'm not affiliated with them at all, but do look forward to feedback, and may put up galleries or images there in the future.</p>

     

  7. <p>We have 2 Asus 900HAs, they are great for backing up SD cards (not sure what other sizes they may take, but there are 2 usb ports). <br>

    However, I can't type easily on them, so don't really do anything with them but store data. I haven't found any netbooks with usable touch typing screens, and the 1024x600 screen resolution is unusable as well.<br>

    Get a cheap notebook if using for anything but card storage.</p>

  8. <p>When I was looking, they appeared to have the same optics, though the build quality of the M ones might be better.<br>

    I went with an LTM version since it came with a VF, while the M does not. I find the optics to be very good on my unit, with film, and the M8 and RD1. The included VF is useful on the RD1 with a 15mm lens if you happen to get one later on.<br>

    I got mine at Photo Village who had good stock a few months back of the LTM/VF 21 combo.</p>

  9. <p>Hi Richard, actually the Unique image ID field will represent actuations for the current DCIM folder only.<br>

    So if camera numbering has not been reset, and folder numbering is 101Leica that would be the # in that field + 10K actuations.<br>

    If 102Leica is folder name, it would be 20K actuations + that number.</p>

     

  10. <p>Hi Marc, apologize for this O/T question for you, but last week, for the first time, I got a roll back from Walgreens with the CD, and the CD didn't have a DCIM directory, it did have all of the usual SW, but the jpgs were in a folder called "Pictures" and were pretty low res (~ 200kb). <br>

    Is this a new procedure from Walgreens, or does one need to request a DCIM folder with larger JPGs?</p>

     

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