mike_s9

<p>Want to get a sigma 75-200 af lens for my nikon f55,<br>

cant get much info on this, is it compatible with<br>

my f55 film camera.? is it a DG lens.?</p>

 

Anyone got any handy hints for repairing a tatty bellows on a Kodak Autographic

Camera. The pin holes are mostly at the corner joints of the bellows. Or would

it be better to try and replace this complete.? I hope to try the camera out

using photo paper pre-loaded,just for the fun of the experiment.! Could I use a

flexible sealant, rather than trying to patch strips of paper around.? The

bottom of the bellows has very little clearance, so this would be particularly

difficult to repair anyway, any suggestions welcome.! Thanks Mike

Without using pro lighting, what's the best way to light Artwork for copying.?

Much of this Artwork though is done on a fairly reflective base media,so

reflections are a problem. Lighting would probably be a couple of 20w halogen

desk lamps. Room lighting is very poor,presumably tungsten. I will be using a

5mp Compact Digital Camera, which does have a very good range of settings for

lighting,ISO,compensation etc, Cant use flash as this bounces off the shiny

media. The Arwork would have to be snapped upright and not face down,

(as viewed)

Thanks Ronald for your reply,it seems I got the settings right for my Enlarger, which is a JOBO C6600 Dichroic jobby. It uses the Kodak tables for B+W Dial in filtration, for Multigrade, and I will be setting 30Y / 30M for a basic setting / start point for colour work.

Obviously I need to do test strips for both, to attain good prints.

Got to get some colour chemistry, then get to work on some nice prints

I can run the paper through my JOBO CPE2 Rotary processor once ive got some decent samples from the Enlarger, and a half decent Neg.!

Even got myself a Melico PM2 Colour Analyser, ( ancient ), but it works just fine.! Looking forward to creating some nice 10x8 prints.!

Thanks to all who made suggestions,Jim's probably got the best option, I tend to do Darkroom stuff after dark anyway,then I can shut all of my other doors,and make sure all the other rooms have lights out. I dont live in Alaska, but in the UK, now's a good time to work in the Darkroom,as the days are quite short anyway.! Ideally, a new properly fitted Double Glazed type door and new frame,and nice seals but that's unlikely.!, cheers, Mike

Sorry,but ive forgotten the basics.!, what are the correct settings, ie plus or

minus,for correcting colour casts in prints, using a dichroic head enlarger.

(C,M,Y),?, ( Colour Negs ), The only tables I can find to hand are:

 

Too Yellow, +Y, Too Magenta, +M, Too Cyan, +C, then,for the following:

Too Blue, -Y, Too Green, -M, Too Red, -C. Is this basically correct.?

 

Are there alternatives.?, can I combine filtration using 2 colours.?

 

I know that using all three effectively acts as a ND filter.

 

Thanks.!

HELP.!, Anyone got ideas for sealing a Bathroom Door,to make it light-tight

please.?, I have tried the foam on a roll around the door, but it hasnt helped

at all.! The Door opens into the Bathroom. The fitting of the door into the

frame is a bit wonky anyway.! A quick fix, that can be undone when required may

be best.Many thanks

Hi Kimberly, loads of responses to your post,which is fantastic. For what its worth, I would say, " Back to basics", and try out a good old fashioned FILM Camera,learn Photography from its roots.! No excuses if you turn out a bad photo,unless you are a whiz in the Darkroom and can maniplulate images there. Aim for carefully lit and properly focused, if doing Portraits,and top quality Negatives. You can even get your Film put onto a CD,and do post processing on your P.C with a basic Paint programme, it doesnt have to be Photoshop,there's plenty of choice out there, try downloading from Download.com. At the end of the day, be critical of every photo you take, be brutally honest with yourself,and see how you can improve,where you may have gone wrong. Try to get a top notch image first time around. As they say "you can't make a silk purse out of a Sows ear" Lastly,remember that everyone's a critic.!, Whatever you take, someone will have an opinion,good or bad. Its entirely subjective,so don't take comments too much to heart.! Its just an opinion.!

Art,now that you have explained it so well,it makes perfect sense,many thanks. Pretty obvious really when you think of it,doh.! Practice makes perfect I guess,only another 30 years to go then.! ( If i should live that long.! )

Thanks Art,question,if you do another print a month later,under the same conditions,same nege etc,why would the filtration alter.?

Anyone got any idea what the best starting point for dial in filtration would be

for a pack of AGFA Signum 11 Colour Printing Paper. I have looked at the AGFA

Websites, which have been of no help whatsoever.! Phoned my local Photographic

shop about this and was told 60Y and 40M, but he wasn't entirely sure about this.

I have the chance to get a set of Jessups colour print chemistry at a knockdown

price on EBAY, its evidently one year past its best before date. Would anyone

suggest I get it,would it still be usable.? Its factory sealed and unused. It

comprises the DEV and BLEACH FIX etc for dilution.

Hi Colin, had a look on EBAY,as you suggested,you are quite correct,the value is very low,which is suprising considering the camera's age,if you are lucky,you might get a tenner for it.! What I might do,purely for fun,is patch up the bellows, and try exposing little sheets of paper.

Obviously you cannot get this Autographic Film anymore.! Should be an interesting experiment.! Otherwise as you said,it was a very thoughtful present for my Birthday,and a lovely display item for my collection.!

P.S Twenty One ( again ).!

Just been given this lovely old Camera as a Present, or more accurately a kind

donation to my growing collection of old Cameras. This model is a Canadian one

and the patent date for this is 1916, so its a good 91 years old.! Question

is,not that its for sale or anything, is it worth anything,if so what do you

think its value may be.?, just curious.! Thanks in anticipation.! Overall

condition is good, mechanically sound, it all works as it should, apart from the

bellows, which do leak a bit.! Still got the original leather case, which needs

some TLC and polish.

Fabulous images.!, just goes to show,you dont need an all singing, all dancing Camera, with lots of Bells and Whistles to take a good Photograph. If only folks would learn with just a bog basic Camera, even an old Box Brownie if needs be,or a simple old Bellows, or Compact 35mm " oldie " like a Voigtlander Vit B. NO Metering.! NO Pentaprism, just the basics.! Well done.!

Yes I may be able to help. I have a nifty bit of Software, from a P.C Fayre, which allows you to re-set the Printer,after an error message telling you that the Printer can only be fixed by a service engineer.

Basically its information that EPSON doesn't want you to know.!

It may just work on your Model,happy to post you a burned copy, just grap my E:Mail address, and I may be able to help.

Secondly the Ink Pad becomes full,and Printer stops working. You can get the cover off,clean out the bit around the Ink Pad Chip,and re-set the Chip. The Printer should now work properly after a re-boot.

You DONT need an expensive Engineer.! Just this disk.!

Please get in touch. Regards Mike ( UK )

Cris has the right idea,and Frank's comments are very apt indeed.

Maybe the post should read Response to Dying instead.!

You can't help working with both Electricity and Water in the Darkroom, but it's a dangerous combination,so you have to be VERY carefull.!

Drying Negs presumably comes under the " dry " side, which is where it should remain.!, keep your Negs well away from Water or Electricity.!

Unless you have the luxury of a custon built Darkroom,and tons of space,you have to comprimise, all the more reason to be very carefull.!

My experience shows that there are so many possible's when you work in a Darkroom, you would drive yourself potty, trying to take it all in.!

Things like chemical dilution,are pretty straight forward though.

My B+W stock normally suggests x+y ie say 1oz chemical to 9oz of H2O, the total solution being 10oz.If you need an odd total amount of solution, say 15oz for you tank,then just add 1/2oz of chemical to another 4.5oz of Water, add in the 10oz you have already made up.

Another way is 1+1/2oz chemistry,plus 13.5oz Water, total is 15oz.!

Try to keep things as simple as poss,and be consistent,make notes.!

Hi Kimberly, I have Emailed you,so please check your inbox.!

Mikexx

Hi Kimberly.!, what sort of support and advice are you seeking.?,

Basic Photo skills, Developing/Printing, Film or Digital.? etc

What sort of Photo Gear do you have.? Body/Lens, Auto.Manual etc.?

or maybe Digital Compact or SLR.?

Happy to help if poss,i'm only about 1 hour from central London

RSVP, Mike

Just got a Melico pm2 Colour Analyser,but sadly no instructions.

Iv'e figured out most of the controls, but still need some advice

How do I match the settings on the PM2 with those of my Enlarger

The PM2's dial settings run up to 30 whilst those on my JOBO

Dichroic Enlarger run up to a value of 170. ( C:M:Y )

Any advice on this much appreciated.Or better still:

A copy of a manual if possible,many thanks Mike

Hi Don, yes I use the Paterson film spirals you mentioned, so you hint is quite handy, cheers.!

Thanks Robert, your method is quite effective, cheers.!

Thanks for your help Gary, I have been practicing, and found a fairly reliable method. I would say that my picker doesn't have any sprocket keys, its just made up of plain plastic tabs. Ive found that feeding the first slider fully into the cassette, then getting the "click", then feeding the second slider in, pulling both back to about 3/4 of the way out, then pulling the picker away from the cassette seems to work ok.!

Got myself a film picker, I know the basics of using one, but finding it

tricky to extract a film leader from the cassette consistently, does anyone

have any handy hints please.?