shawn2_gibson

Thanks very much, David. shawn

I just mistakenly shot new 120 Delta400 at 200 instead of 250 like my old standard. I want to get a contrasty neg (long dev't time) but I don't want to blow out the highlights on the subject ('T'were a sunny day...). Could someone tell me what you would reccomend for a dilution with Rodinal?

 

<p>

 

thanks everyone

 

<p>

 

shawn

...by 'actually helpful', I meant I hope what I wrote is intelligble

and relevent, not implying anything of the other answers,

sorry...shawn

I would start by modifying your agitation, since this will decrease

the contrast and keep the grain, which requires time, even in Rodinal

at 1:100. Generally, big grain, and standard contrast can happen with

a compensating technique...hope this is actually helpful?

ps PMK pyro will lower the EI, and make it even 'less over-exposed',

AS WELL as ensure (through it's staining activity) that the highs are

kept, even with development-enough to ensure consistency and low-

value detail...:-)

James nailed it, I think, but I might back off you times a little,

maybe 20-25%. Good advice here throughout...just remember it's not

the disaster it may seem...D100 is closer 10 EI64 than 100, so it's

not really all that over-exposed...really...

I meant Robert of course, and of course, I say of course I could be

wrong...

 

<p>

 

shawn

I don't think he meant set it to f11, but simply use f11 as the base

of whatever you normally do afterwards...sorry in a hurry. shawn

...didn't mean to post, sorry. To continue: I had planned on letting

the clothed fashion/glamour photos be as powerful as they could be,

with the mere exception that I would delete anything I myself deemed

pornographic (which is obviously risky business, judging something

oneself...). As these posts continued, I was planning on letting up on

the nude prohibition.

 

<p>

 

But I am very happy with the way things have been going, and so for

the time being (until I start getting death threats) I really have NO

PROBLEM with nudes. <b> post away unclothed...</b>

 

<p>

 

<b><i>ANY PORNOGRAPHY WILL BE DELETED IMMEDIATELY. AND IF IT IS

</i>ABSOLUTELY AND BLATENTLY<i> PORNOGRAPHIC, THE POSTER WILL NOT BE

ALLOWED TO POST PHOTOS AGAIN, REGARDLESS OF THEIR CONTENT. THIS IS MY

ONLY RULE. IT IS MY SITE AND I HATE PORNOGRAPHY</b></I>.

 

<p>

 

Any questions?

I chose to decide on no nudes, etc. based on prudence. Personally, I

love nudes, and the make up probably about 10% of my work. My

underlying plan with the rule (apart from keeping away, well,

perverts) was not to deny nudes, but to establish a certain type of

poster--a typical, serious photo.net/PoP/BW Film (Printing) type

of crowd.

I'm usually doing 11x14 on fibre, but I have been hoping to do a few 16x20's sometime soon. I'm glad I can use PMK...cheaper, and I I keep

hearing wonderful things with it. I'm looking forward to trying this on Friday. Do you have any recommended times for Tech Pan with PMK?

NEW QUESTION: how much of a grain increase can I expect with TechPan in PMK over Technidol?

As for the lighting, it was direct tungsten bulb lighting with a very small 180 degree oval reflector and no diffusion (it was really a desk lamp). It was

very close to the models, approximately 1 to 1 1/2 feet away from their faces, on which I was concentrating. I think the light is going to be fairly flat

on their faces, but where there are shadows, I expect they will be very strong and defined.

I just phoned 8Elm about PMK pyro, and the guy said for Tech Pan and pyro, it is reccommended that the film be underexposed by one stop; so this

might save me. And I've been dying to try pyro. I'd rather try diafine for this, but I can't find it anywhere. Shawn

Sorry again. I was, of course (?), at ISO 25.

Sorry. Zones V-ish to VIII-ish...

I was unexpectedly out last night with two of my regular models, and all I on me had was 6 rolls of Tech Pan; all they had was one, 60Watt tungsten bulb stuffed into little desk lamp. We decided to have some fun, and I ended up shooting them with that setup. The best I could do was f1.4 @ 1/15 second, and even then, I was spotmetering at 1 to 3 stops under my normal method, i.e., I was underexposing in the worst cases by 3 stops. I am sure I'm S.O.L., but does anyone have any advice for development? I am most interested in skin Zones (V-is VIII-ish lows to highs). I use Technidol for now at about 8 minutes. Thanks all. Shawn

I don't know if this helps, but I believe Kodak (for TMX,Y,Z) reccommends cutting dev't times by I think 15-20% for a condenser head, over the

standard times. Probably applicable over the board.

I'm probably buying the PMK book Friday, and I have been studying the Adams trilogy like bible. I still stand on my lack of need for great low-Zone

detail; I photograph people, usually for fibre 11x14 'semi'-fine-art prints for my portfolio, which I hope soon will get me a job. I've also switched to

Delta 100 and TMY (still love TP and Delta 3200). As for detail, if I have detail from about Zone III 1/2, I'm happy. If I lose b/t Zones IX-X, but

have incredible separation b/t these two extremes (i.e., in the IV-VIII realm), I consider myself as having a perfect negative...I think I get what you

are saying about contrast and luminance, too. The luminance of a scene may be 5 Zones or 15, but the contrast of a scene can be high with 2 stops (a

true black and white image) or any other 'scene luminance' number. Thanks for the info.

You control contrast (at the negative stage) with eith/or/both of a compensating developer and shorter development time (its in the book).

Refer to Ansel Adams', "The Negative" for a full and wonderfully simple explanation of what Marty is talking about.

How 'bout a full 10 min Washaid, then 1 hour wash on "exposure day", then all my "toning day", toneing followed by Washaid and full 1 hour wash

again? That's what I've been doing, because I'm not sure if the fixer can be dried on the print for 24 hours, and since in my toning I always use

selenium, Kodak's, which apparently has hypo in it. I guess my question is, should I Washaid on "exposure day"?

I want to start doing processing my fibre prints on Day 1, and then toning them on Day 2. How long on Day 1 should I wash them for, since I won't be archiving them until the end of Day 2? I plan on letting them dry so I can look at them at the end of Day 1, too...

HELP! I've gone toner crazy! Trying to get this effect has led to many interesting results. And many disasters. But no even-close-to-perfect match.

First lesson: wash your selenium and sepia-toned prints very, very well before putting it back in your developer (or the rest of your prints in that

developer will be ruined with crazy marks...). Better yet, use a different developer for post-toned prints...ALSO, Kodak selenium, I found out, has

fixer in it ( a little); I'm getting some interesting results going from a 15sec. fix, into selenium, washaid, then full fix. O the possibilities hurt my brain

(but tickle my fancy, too...)!

...Although I suppose "high-key" can mean "high-contrast" for some people. I personally like very tight lighting ratios when I shoot "high-key".

Now I'm just entertaining myself. Sorry. Shawn