jim_d5

Date backs scare me. Something permanately printed on my photo besides the image? I think not.

"I would suggest also including the EF 20mm f/2.8 USM in your considerations. Granted, it's 20mm, not 17mm and it's a prime not a zoom. However, it's faster lens, a couple hundred dollars less expensive, and slightly lighter."

 

I second that!

 

I have it, I love it, even on the 1.6x crop you probably rarely NEED more wide than that. It is very sharp and fast for the price and is well built for a non-L, I am more than happy with it. Plus you will probably get a full frame camera some day so you will be well off with this great prime.

I mean this makes it so you can shoot at intermediate speeds and ultimately

intermediate qualities! What about when 800 is not enough and 1600 is too much

or how about between any two full steps? Looks like if I could get a little

less noisey image and a little more speed in an intermediate speed that would be

a great capability and advantage over the 20D or 350D. Anyone else like this

feature? It is one of my favorites, then again I never owned a 20D.

BTW, I once knew a Canonphile and technician who said he could tell how used a Canon shutter was by the sound it makes. I never believed him, LOL.

I think only Canon knows how to do this little trick. I believe it is built in the camera's electronics somewhere, even in their film models. I think you have to have the Canon service equipment. Am I right?

 

I am sure the previous owner has reset the file counter? If not, just see what the name on the last file shot was. Should be consecutive, right? Then again you certainly don't know if it has been reset at some previous juncture. I think you got to have Canon figure this one out.

Get the 30D and the 50 f/1.4, this combinations is excellente. The 50 is tack sharp and the 30D makes it an 80mm which is a perfect compromise between normal and portrait. I think this would work great for a wedding. Your total would be around $1700 at B&H, not bad, you should not have to spend more than this.

 

PS: It has been said, and I agree, don't get slow zooms. You will want to shoot low ISOs for mint prints. Weddings demand good prime lenses more than any other job!

Due to the volume of dust when cleaning out a dusty PC you probably should wear sealing saftey goggles too as that type of dust can create serious eye infections! The mask ($40 respirator at Home Depot) is good too because that type of dust will make you sick as you blow it around whether you are outside or not.

To Mendel,

 

"Regarding your pc running all the time: I've found it worthwhile to take it out on the front steps or driveway at least once a year, and blow out the dust with a reversed vacuum cleaner nozzle."

 

Yes, indeed. I do this too, more like about once every couple of months. The fans and all the inner surfaces are often very dusty even two months after last blow through. I do it this often because I used canned air, which has worked fine. But like you said if I wait longer it gets too dusty and I have to use something more powerful, so I make my cleanings more frequent.

 

For those of you who leave their computers on 24/7, CLEAN THE INSIDE periodically. I too have seen computers develop problems due to dust clogging. Don't be afraid if you are not a techie, most computers allow the side door to be removed easily without tools or at most a simple screwdriver.

 

Just take the door off, put on a dust mask or respirator, and blow away! Remember to turn it off first and unplug everything from the back. Also ground yourself (touch a metal desk leg or something before opening the computer. Try not to touch anything inside unless you are wearing a grounding strap.

I had this exact question when I was going to DC in early 2001. The only difference was I was shooting with 100-400 ISO print film. Well, I took two because I felt one would not cover such a great place. I took my 28-105 f/3.5-4.5 USM and my 50 f/1.8. Those two seemed to do the trick.

 

I found the 50 very useful inside each memorial or monument because the available light was lower and I needed the speed of f/1.8. The 28-105 was good for all the walk around shots out in the sunlight. Each time I would step into the shade of the buildings I made the switch to the 50 and then back to zoom when back in the sun. It was not too difficult, plus my 50 and your 50 are both small lenses.

 

It should be easy to carry the 24-105 f/4L and the 50 f/1.4. I would not take the 70-200 on this one as I do not see too much use for it. You will be close enough or can get close enough to all structures not to need more than 105mm if that.

 

It is, IMO, one of the most fun places to take pictures! I took a ton of rolls o film. You might want to pack a several extra memory cards, you WILL need them.

I had this exact question when I was going to DC in early 2001. The only difference was I was shooting with 100-400 ISO print film. Well, I took two because I felt one would not cover such a great place. I took my 28-105 f/3.5-4.5 USM and my 50 f/1.8. Those two seemed to do the trick.

 

I found the 50 very useful inside each memorial or monument because the available light was lower and I needed the speed of f/1.8. The 28-105 was good for all the walk around shots out in the sunlight. Each time I would step into the shade of the buildings I made the switch to the 50 and then back to zoom when back in the sun. It was not too difficult, plus my 50 and your 50 are both small lenses.

 

It should be easy to carry the 24-105 f/4L and the 50 f/1.4. I would not take the 70-200 on this one as I do not see too much use for it. You will be close enough or can get close enough to all structures not to need more than 105mm if that.

 

It is, IMO, one of the most fun places to take pictures! I took a ton of rolls o film. You might want to pack a several extra memory cards, you WILL need them.

I usually turn my cameras off, just by habbit. I don't know why. I never turn my desktop computer off and never put it into sleep mode. It runs 24/7/365 because I cannot stand to wait for a computer to boot and like to schedule certain tasks. I also believe computers exhibit better reliabilty when left on. But I digress.

 

Also, I note others have said they turn their cameras off when removing/inserting their memory cards. While this is reccommended, in theory, unless you do it while the read/write light is blinking this should not matter. If the card is not being accessed, which is the case unless YOU access it, I would think it can be removed with the camera on without hesitation. Then again, perhaps it is the mere presence of electricity that makes it sensitive to data loss upon sudden removal.

 

Because I do not know for a fact, I simply turn the camera off when inserting or removing the cards. It is also obvious that it is good practice to shut off the camera when changing lenses so the sensor is not charged.

I second the reccommendation to get a 420EX, you can order them by phone or internet for less than $150 and they will do just about as good is the 430EX for you. I have one, and I'd say once you get it you will always love to use it.

 

I know you found a flash but you cannot expect to get good results with that older flash. Getting a Conon EOS flash allows you to have the evaluative metering though the lens, the resulting pictures are usually quite good with few misses.

 

As for the actual shooting, any indoor even like this presents a challange to the photographer. I like close ups, but that is me, you may like full body shots, best thing is to shoot a mix of the two. Take all your lenses and expect to make at least one change. Remember to spend less time worrying about your equipment and more time worrying about what is going on in the event or you will miss something, I know!

 

A good Canon EOS flash (420/430EX) will take your mind off your equipment considerably, they make the whole operation fully automatic and relatively painless.

"The Canon 1 series are BETTER then Nikon's UI because with the Canon, it takes TWO hands to change most controls....preventing accidental changes to controls.

 

One-handed changes to controls is a liability, not a feature."

 

BINGO, Dan wins the prize! This is exactly correct, and for people who actually handle their camera nothing beats Canon's 1 series and the trickle down effect it has had on the EOS 3 and other higher end models.

 

I still say after all this, it IS the image stupid! But, stupid, in order to get your image you got to be able to push the right buttons and, as Dan points out, not push the wrong buttons.

HOLY CRAP, I just noticed my EOS 3 vignettes with my 20 f/2.8, what a crappy camera!

 

I am burning it with my other Canon bodies tonight!

 

The 5D does this too, you say? I know not to buy that one!

Great camera, get it.

 

Also, the 70-200 f/4L is an excellent lens in every respect, get that.

 

You are set!

Is this normal for a relatively cheap lens?

 

Yes, it has a plastic mount, do not expect much in the way of a solid mount. PS, this lens is not very good, as you are beginning to see. Time for an upgrade? Canon offers far better.

 

Will it affect image quality?

 

No, how could it? It is probably still light tight because of the genius that is the EF mount. If the pictures are evenly exposed, calm down, and forget about it.

 

Will Canon accept this as a manufacturing defect?

 

I highly doubt it. One, because the lens costs less than 100 bucks. Two, because it isn't meant to withstand constant interchanging, i.e. the plastic fantastic.

"Those cameras are weird. When I got mine I found the flash blinking after I had taken the photo. I was certain it was broken and ready to take it back to Canon, but the problem never reappeared. Perhaps it was the preflash or AF hunting (the camera uses the really dumb system of firing the flash to detect focus in dark areas. This is really, really annoying. My EOS 10 from 15 years ago had a red af light that was very discrete. I wonder which idiot at Canon decided to replace it with the bright white light or flash to detect focus, dumb dumb dumb. I hope he was fired, and I hope Canon loses sales because of dumb moves like this.)."

 

What does this accomplish in a forum like this? Why wish Canon bad sales because of something you view as incorrect design? Being an engineer, this bothers me. Canon gives you the option of turning it off in every model that has the flash burst. The red light on older bodies was proven ineffective in many circumstances, so they changed it, so what? In most cases the camera doesn't need it anyway with the new, more sensitive AF systems, so turn it off.

 

In my experience it has always been turned off on my Elan 7 and Rebel 2000 and I have never had a poor, OOF shot because it was off. Try to avoid bashing a company's engineers just because YOU dislike a feature which is your option to use or not.

"Definitely should not happen. One quick advice, keep everything. The box, the manuals and most important the purchase receipt. If this happens again in the following days return it immediately. Maybe somebody can suggest something else but if new and wasn't used before I find that very strange. I've bought two new cameras so far and never heard about this before, Nikon or Canon."

 

TO YVES...Have you ever used an EOS camera? They all make this noise, it is a directional sensor, and it definately SHOULD happen.

 

TO LUIGI...Do not investigate further, it is fine. How are the pictures looking? If there is a problem with the pictures then get worried otherwise, happy shooting.

Well, at least you are on the right track, you have picked the right manufacturer and the correct two cameras, you're getting warmer...

 

Now, I am in a similar situation. I have been content with film cameras and scanning, etc. Now I have decided the second week in June is my week to ditch the film and go all digital. I am like you I don't shoot a ton, I'm not a professional, but I do take it very seriously.

 

It was either save a little and get the 5D or just run with it and get the 30D. If I get the 5D I could use my EF 20 f/2.8 to its fullest and get the most out of my 28-105 3.5-4.5. But if I get the 30D I save $1600 and open up the option of getting the 17-40 f/4L and the 70-200 f/4L.

 

Well, I am going with the 30D option and getting the lenses soon after. The 17-40 is a SUPERB lens, as they say, and f/4 is fast enough with a camera that makes great images at high ISOs. You might want to consider this combo as I hear it is a winner.

 

The 5D is a great camera and I may very well get one later and make the 30D my backup but I can't see buying right now even at the price it is at, not for what I do and probably not for you either, IMO.

 

Whatever you choose you will begin having LOTS of fun! Enjoy.

Canon made the camera for just such a thing. Yes, you would miss opportunities. Yes, you have wasted your money on such a fine camera. Yes, you will have wasted your money on the trip if you can't save some fine memories.

 

I have never been to the beach without my newest SLR, whatever it is. Take it, use it, swing it over your back, don't be so worried, and take some great shots and even show us the results if you want. Enjoy the 5D!

I wouldn't use that lens on that camera. It is not designed for 1.3x crops and never was intended to be used with them. No wonder you see this.

"Try not to get fixated on ergonomics, nor in how the bodies feel in your hands....these issues are important, but IMHO hand-feeling should carry much less decision-weight then Image Quality."

 

In my experience, this is not true. Ergonomics are EVERYTHING. The camera is a tool, your tool, an extension of your mind and creative expression. If you cannot get it to do what you want it to do quickly and precisely then the work suffers, end of discussion.

 

Image quality is just as important but never less important than a comfortable camera. Canon owns the ergonomics department, IMO.

You are comming from a world where you take your film seriously it sounds like. So anything less than the 5D would be a mistake and a dissapointment. Full frame sensor, film like viewfinder, incredible imager with little noise. The noise on the D200 is, in my opinion, unacceptable at ISO 800 and up when compared to ANY Canon DSLR.

 

As I have tried it out, the viewfinder on the 5D IS impressive, I love it. In fact I think it was more comfortable to work with than <sigh> my EOS 3. I wish I could afford the 5D, but I had to go with the 30D which is a great camera too!

 

Personally, I do not like the Nikon system because the equipment's ergonomics feel weird to me, then again I have always owned Canon equipment. Each of us come from our respective camps, the Canon camp, and the Nikon camp.

 

Ultimately, both systems will produce great results, you can't make a wrong decision, really.

 

Good luck and enjoy whichever one you choose.

This may be the case when you use a higher ISO (bigger files). Try a low ISO like 100 and see if the burst number goes up.

"The only reason I can think of to buy the EOS3 is dollars (not interested in eye focus stuff). The 1V trumps the EOS3 in every parctical respect, IMHO."

 

Not really, it may be sealed a little better and have the 4fps faster top speed but otherwise the 1v is a waste of the 800 extra dollars.

 

Answer to the original question, there is NO difference.

 

If you are considering buying one or the other get the EOS 3 unless you just need the 10fps.