veniero

I think that with two little children you need a DSLR. Any P&S would likely be too slow. I believe that Olympus makes some pretty compact DSLRs. Also, I think that shooting "one-handed...at the playground" with a P&S, it would be hard to get acceptable quality 12X12 prints, no matter which camera you're using.

 

Best of luck, GT.

I think it's a little unfair to compare it to the M2, which does not have a mirror and also, I suspect, you probably used a wider lens with the M2 which is less prone to shake.

Any experience travelling within the US recently (past few days)? I cannot imagine checking in $6000 worth of camera and lenses. Airlines are certainly not going to compensate for loss, theft or damage to equipment of this value. I have signed up for a workshop this fall and I am thinking of cancelling if I would not be allowed to take my camera and lenses as carry-on.

You should also look at Rawshooter. It's an excellent program and I use it almost exclusively. Check out www.pixmantec.com

I just got an Elan 7E in like new condition from KEH for the same purpose. I am very happy with it and it was extremely reasonably priced. Check out http://www.keh.com

The R2400 will give you spectacular color and B/W prints up to 13". I had the R800 before that. It did a great job with color but was not great with B/W and was limited to 8.5" wide. Great value for the price, though.

What about the D50?

This was three years ago. Exposed at 800, developed in XTOL.

I use the same inks with a C86, no clogging problems so far (six months).

You may want to check out Paul Roark's website http://home1.gte.net/res0a2zt/photos.html and the Yahoo Group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint/.

 

I am currently using an Epson C86 dedicated to B&W with MIS pre-filled cartridges. I like the results a lot, although I am still learning.

Another vote for a Mamiya 7 or 7II. Spectacular lenses, completely quiet, excellent quality and very light and portable.

I actually found Picture Window Pro a lot easier to learn and use. It also runs a lot faster than Photoshop CS and,in my opinion, it is every bit as powerful as Photoshop for your needs. It comes with excellent and comprehensive documentation, so that you don't have to spend another $200 or more on books and "how to" CDs or DVDs. Customer support is outstanding. I am not a graphic artist and I ended up coming back to PWP after a 30-day evaluation period with Photoshop.

I just bought a box of Hahnemuhle PhotoRag for use with an Epson R800

printer (with the original Epson inks). I have not been able to find

any profiles for this combination. I tried the Enhanced Matte profile

and the results were OK, not great. Any suggestions?

 

Thanks in advance.

I wanted to post an update to this issue. I contacted Epson customer service, regarding black only option. Here is their reply:

 

To set up a black only print, please follow the steps as listed below:

 

1) Click on START, go to CONTROL PANELS and select on PRINTERS AND FAXES

or PRINTERS AND OTHER HARDWARE.

2) Click on VIEW INSTALLED PRINTERS (if applicable) and then RIGHT-CLICK

on your printer icon. Select PRINTING PREFERENCES.

3) On the MAIN tab, select PHOTO ENHANCE under COLOR MANAGEMENT.

4) Under the TONE setting, select MONOCHROME.

5) Click on OK, and then go ahead and print.

 

I tried that. Prints were quite nice on Enhanced Matte paper. On glossy paper, blacks were deeper, but there was a slight color cast.

I have used the R800 for four months and my experience has been very different. I was impressed with the brilliance and vividness of color images on Enhanced Matte paper. Almost all are from a Nikon D70, processed with PictureWindow Pro.

Thanks for following up. I just downloaded the updated driver. Unfortunately, no black-only option. Too bad, I got quite excited there!

No, I had the same experience. The thing does not really fit at all.

I recently got an Epson R800 and I am very pleased with the results.

I was hoping to experiment with blak ink only printing. Is there such

an option with this printer? I was not able to find such an option in

the driver window.

Thanks in advance,

 

Spyros.

I am a novice in digital photography. I understand that it is quite

critical to calibrate my monitors and plan to invest in a calibrating

system. For editing purposes I use Picture Window Pro and I am very

impressed. They offer a calibrating system called Profile Mechanic.

Any experiences with it? My favorable experience with their excellent

software makes me inclined to try it.

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Another vote for Picture Window Pro. I am a complete novice in digital editing and have found it easier to learn, faster and just as powerful as Photoshop for photo work. Fantastic customer service too and much cheaper than PS.

Thank you all. I contacted Paterson and they agreed that there must be a problem with Part A. They will be sending me a replacement.

Thank you for your answers and suggestions.

 

Mark: you are right, my question regarding the color of the developer was not clear. What I meant was the following: there is a very slight yellow tint to the part A solution, it is not completely colorless. Is that the yellow tint of an oxidized developer or is it a deeper yellow?

I recently decided to try Paterson FX-50. I developed roll of Ilford

HP5+ exposed at 250 and it turned out grossly underdeveloped,

extremely thin and with very low contrast (unprintable with a

condenser enlarger). I followed the enclosed instructions faithfully

and used distilled water. I noticed that Solution A had a very slight

yellow tint. Is that normal? Should Solution A be as clear as B? The

instructions indicate that a "yellow tint" indicates that solution A

has oxidized.

 

Both bottles had just been opened and were bought a week before. They

were stored in a cool basement at around 55-60 degrees.

 

Thank you in advance for your help.

I just developed and printed two rolls of Kodak Tri-X exposed at 320

and developed in XTOL 1:1. In several prints I noticed the following

problem: areas of intense highlights (car lights in the dark outside)

printed as gray "blobs" surrounded by a white rim, rather than

totally white areas. The negatives (and prints) had otherwise

very "normal" appearance and gradation of tones in shadows and

highlights. Is that a phenomenon that has to do with the film,

development or my camera lens (a Nikon AIs 50 mm)? I find it very

distracting and undesirable and would like to avoid it.

 

Thanks in advance.