valo_soul

Hi everyone, I'm wondering if anyone else has experienced something like this. I've had my 85L II since new, for about 8 years. In the past year or so, the sort of rubberized grip/coating on the outside of the lens barrel has essentially peeled away like wax (see photos). Can these be re-finished? I'm scared to know what it'll cost me. I wrote to Canon and they simply said as they always do; mail it in to us for the techs to take a look and diagnose the problem. I'm hoping this can be fixed!

Thanks for the input, Marcus. I’m going to see if I can tweak it tomorrow and then seek a replacement.

$500 CAD - This lens is in practically like-new condition. No trades. Cash or e-transfer preferred Thanks for looking! The lens is absolutely razor sharp and has been very lightly used. The focus ring is buttery smooth and the glass is immaculate. Best price on the local marketplace. I’m also including an original Canon ET-67 lens hood for this lens, which does not normally come with it. The hood alone still sells for $75+ tax CAD, new. DSLR Video Gear - Manfrotto - Zoom - Benro - Rode! - Mint - [ ] Benro Tripod and Manfrotto video head - $250 (the video head alone sells for $250 CAD after tax) - [ ] Glidecam HD2000 - SOLD - [ ] Rode Link Filmmaker Kit wireless lapel mic set - $380 - [ ] Rode Video Mic Pro with Rode Deadcat attachment - $240 - [ ] Zoom H1 Handy Recorder - $70 - [ ] Impact KCP 200 2.5" Steel Grip Head - $20 - [ ] Neewer Pop filter = $10 - [ ] LyxPro - Boom Pole - 9.25 feet - $70 Photos available for everything!

Thanks Mark. Good idea with the small magnifying glass or something of the sort. The beam fires, and the camera sometimes achieves focus, but usually the beam doesn’t align with where the AF points are, unless I zoom in out out a bit and then zoom back to where I want to frame the shot.

Hello everyone, I recently purchased the Yongnuo version of the radio trigger for the Canon RT flash system. It was 1/3 the cost AND has an AF assist beam, which for some reason the Canon does not (so puzzling). The trigger seems excellent, but the AF beam seems very misaligned on my copy. It appears way up near the top of the frame, making most of the auto focus points useless, as they are nowhere near the beam pattern. Is this a common issue with these triggers, I did mine perhaps get bumped out of place in shipping or something? Any workarounds for this perhaps? I’m thinking about popping the red cover off and trying to move it around

Thanks everyone. It appears my cards are legit.

*EDIT* I’ve tested it against the other cards I’ve been using for years and it’s faster than all of them. I also just noticed that the codes for the free copy of Sandisks backup software are completely unique, inside each package. I’m more confident that these are legit now.

So these cards claim “up to” 85 MB per second write speed. The thing is, I’m only able to use a USB 2.0 port on this computer, connected to a card reader... so I ran the test anyway and it’s currently writing at 28.8 MB per second. I have no idea if that’s bad or not.

So really - even these cards sold direct from Amazon (not an Amazon reseller or retailer, but actually amazon directly) *could* be fake?

Thanks for the response. I’ll give that program a go. Is the only sign that they are fake, the fact that the speeds will be quite far off?

Hi everyone! I Purchased three SanDisk extreme 32 GB 120 MB per second CompactFlash cards from Amazon.ca, making sure to buy from the “Amazon.com.ca“ seller (which I believe to be actually straight from amazon - yes?) Is Amazon.ca an authorized seller of Sandisk? I’m so afraid of getting fake cards and shooting valuable images on them. All three cards have the same code on the bottom of them, but I believe this is a product code and not an actual serial number. Is this expected that all three would have the same code written on them? Thank you for any help! James

<p>Thank you, Andrew. When I use your method to examine it, I do see some of the information! When using the MacOS to simply "Get Info", it isn't shown. Apparently this is just a shortcoming of the interface. My apologies.</p>

<p>Hi Andrew,</p> <p> Yes I do see one. It just doesn't seem to be using it when I export. I chose it from the metadata presets list, then exported the file with the option "copyright and contact info only", as I don't want everyone to see my camera settings. Nothing there when I look for it.... I just see that it's a JPG, the size of the file, the dimensions, the color space, etc. No mention of my name.</p>

<p>Hello Folks,</p> <p> I switched from PC to Mac about a year ago, and I've just noticed that Lightroom no longer seems to export my copyright info in my files. While using PC, if I right clicked a file to see more info, it would also show "Copyright James Jeremiah Cripps", and then my website, etc. On my iMac, with all the same settings being used in Lightroom, I can't see it anywhere. It's acting as though it's going to export the photo with the copyright info in tact, but when right clicking and then clicking "Get Info", there is absolutely nothing showing my name or website.</p> <p> What am I missing?</p> <p>Thank you in advance!<br> James</p>

I ended up finding 3rd party software, which has helped a bit. The fault of the Spyder seems to be within the software, not the hardware. This happens with all images. Jpgs, png, video files, everything.

<p>I'm starting to worry that perhaps this is a flaw in the Intel Iris Graphics? My girlfriend has an identical Macbook Pro Retina as well. Hers has never been calibrated or modified in any way... I see banding on hers as well (just checked). This is really upsetting if it can't be overcome.</p>

<p>Ok I did that and it reverts to the default "iMac" profile. Still seeing banding. Not as bad... but still seeing it. Would the Spyder software cause problems at this point, somehow? Do I need to uninstall that entirely as well? :(</p> <p> I've had the Spyder for a few years. I used it on my old CRT with what I believed to be good success.</p>

<p>That image is just a banding nightmare for me. So what do I do from here? :/ Do I need a different colorimeter?</p>

<p>Not a high bit panel? This is the newest iMac that supposedly has 10 bit color. Not that the terminology means a lot to me... but my understanding is that these panels are quite advanced.</p>

<p>Thanks, Andrew. I didn't realize that the Spyder's didn't have a good reputation.</p> <p> I'm now noticing that even when I switch back to the default "iMac" color profile in system settings, the posterization is still noticeable. It's MUCH better...but I still see very noticeable rings/steps of colors and tones on everything.</p> <p> Could there someone be a problem just because I don't have dedicated video, or something like that? (It's not available unless you step up to the 27" iMac).</p> <p>iMac (Retina 4K, 21.5-inch, Late 2015)<br> 3.1 GHz Intel Core i5<br> 8 GB 1867 MHz DDR3<br> Intel Iris Pro Graphics 6200 1536 MB</p>

<p>Hello Everyone,<br /><br />I feel like I'm about to open a can of worms, but I am at a loss.<br /><br />I recently calibrated my 4k iMac display (and my 13" retina Macbook Pro, actually), with a Spyder4 Pro. Now, I suddenly see absolutely horrific "steps" of color in any gradient/gradations. I see it in ALL video, in photos within Safari, Chrome, Preview, Photoshop, Lightroom, absolutely anywhere. It's very very bad.<br /><br />I used the settings of RGB LED + High Gamut LCD for the iMac, as I believe I should have done, according to information online. I used White LED + Standard Gamut LCD for the MBP.<br /><br />Comparing the same images on my iPhone 5s display (which obviously isn't calibrated), they all look totally normal, and smooth! Just as one would expect.<br /><br />What have I done wrong? Is this an inherent flaw in the displays? Is my Spyder4 broken? I need accurate color but I can't sacrifice tones like this :S<br /><br />Coming from a 12 year old CRT monitor that displays good color and tones, I'm quite dumbfounded that these new high end machines are having this issue. I'm sure there must be a fix.</p>