vadtel

<p>both are perfect!</p>

<p>Level your tripod and head. As BG said, manual exposure and manual focus.</p>

<p>I have 85 mark II and it's accurate with every AF point at 5D mark I and II. I think it will be the same with 85 markI.</p>

<p>Just ordered there. Thanks Bojan!</p>

<p>nowinstock.com<br>

Found it very helpfull.</p>

<p>lol!</p>

<p>It's always next week after you got yours!</p>

<p>Flash, bracket, better beamer, and maybe look here: <a href="http://birdsasart.com/">http://birdsasart.com/</a></p>

<p>5D</p>

<p>Why do you think it's post processing? Good picture will look so even without any touch in PC (after wich it should be great!). What is the problem you have? What is wrong there? 40D is the camera which may bring you on heaven but learn to flight!</p>

I had that problem with my new 85 1.2 and 40D. I called Canon - they said it's the lens and advised to change it if I can or send to their service for free fix. Next day I changed the lens and... same problem! Although it worked fine with my 5D so I decided to keep it and happy with the results.

As George said.

I'm happy with my 5D, 40D and 30D converted to infrared. Almost always, even when I just walk around, I have 580 or 550 flash (depends on what bag I'm taking). I don't care about wireless controller and thinking to sell my Canon wireless transmitter as I will mostly use strobes for indoors portraiture. I'm absolutely fine with autofocus in any body I have. What about more AF points mentioned somewhere in photonet, I will be appreciate if it will be somehow closer to the corner area, which couldn't be find in any Canon or Nikon body. More ISO with less noise possibility sounds very attractive in coming body. Also more pixels will be a good thing for those, shooting for stock, where more file size needed. Second card is a real thing I will miss in the new otherwise excellent Mark II body.

Fantastic lens! Go for it.

Thanks everybody for your warm advises! All your stories touched me and I really appreciate you decide to share them! I'm still thinking what to buy (or maybe give him some old film camera I already have?!) but your responses gave me some GOLDEN LIGHT feeling - thanks and thanks!

Hi guys! Need your advise. My son will be 11 in 2 weeks. He is interesting in learning photography (and, probably,

to spend more time with me!). I have 3 Canon SLR bodies (all in use). So he is asking for camera. I thought about

some point and shoot but recently found used 30D body for $400. Should I go for it?

That way I will be able to teach him real technic - apperture, shutter speed, flash, DOF etc. P&S with their too small

sensors wouldn't be able to give him that opportunity, I'm afraid. Even with large f-openning it will have much bigger

DOF (I beleive as I don't have any experience with that).

So pros for SLR - same system as mine, real photography... Cons - more weight and maybe a little complicated for

his age.

What do you think?

85 could be too long. Try 50 1.8 first then add 85 if needed or go wider to 35 or even 28mm.

Did anybody try to use all in one printer-fax scanner for fine art printing?! It's probably not a bad thing for home office needs but has no connection to photography, right?

Hi guys. Strange story. Checked exposure with flash meter (Hensel monolight was

in use). As per camera histogram - underexposed 1 stop. I thought that meter

needs to be calibrated for camera (find right ISO). Then I added 1 stop -

camera histogram was perfect. Opened files in Canon's Zoom browser - histogram

looked exact as it did in camera. Opened pictures in Photoshop - completely

different histogram! My meter reading was ok and first exposure too! Second

picture (adjusted to plus one stop, which was ok with camera histogram) in

Photoshop was overexposed at this added stop of light.

What is wrong here? I thought maybe camera needs calibration, but the Zoom

browser gave me the same histogram as camera did. Any ideas?

What about 300/4.0 IS with 1.4TC. You'll get extremly sharp 300 and 420mm. And 17-40 if needed. 24-70 is one of the best - stay with it.

No jeret no me said about P mode - Arthur Morris did some days at popphoto, I beleive. You may see the results at http://www.birdsasart.com/

But you are right David - Arthur do it all with 1D bodies!

Mostly JPEG to save time on postprocessing. Also I lowered contrast, saturation and sharpness. Focus points through multi controller. And use SET to swich between RAW-JPEG when needed.

Go for it. And consider a little more investment to buy from BH or Adorama. Save on smth else!

Colin, I will use a flash (no monolight!) and it wouldn't prevent going up with ISO numbers (as it would be balanced with ambient). Yes I thought about 35L but $$$! So your opinion that 35 2.0, even a stop faster then 24-70, is not an answer?

Thanks guys! but flash is not an option here.