mjd

I had the same experience as Rob, but with an 20D being offered for $800. They wanted my address and and then to wait to be contacted by Amazon with instuctions. Needless to say, I stayed away from this "deal" and bought from B&H instead.

Thanks, James and Gianpiero!

Hi All,

 

I have a boxfull of zip disks containing images that I took with a

Canon DCS 520 (1998-era camera baed on the EOS 1N), but unfortunately

I don't have the software to convert the RAW files to tiff. It seems

that Adobe Camera Raw won't read the files. I am looking for a kind

photo netter out there willing to forward a copy of the software for

converting these old files. Thanks.

 

Marcelo

>>I don't know much (anything) about guns, but I would suspect that the bullet from an AK47 would have to be getting towards the end of its trajectory before it would be easily stopped by say, the top plate of a camera. Am I wrong in this assumption?<<

 

There is only one way to find out. Just start the test really long range and keep decreasing the shooting distance until... well you know the rest.

Lou Reed.

This one http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo.tcl?photo_id=1855174

Patrick

 

Did you see in the current issue of american photo one of photo.net's POW (image by Curtis Forrester)? It's in an Absolut Vodka ad. The image looked familiar when I first saw it, and sure enough, it was Forrester's POW.

Assuming no exposure correction is applied, the picture of the white card will look 18% gray anyway since that is how your meter is calibrated. It doesn't matter which side of the card you use as said above.

The celebrity phenomenon is relatively recent. I do think HCB would have become excellent material for the celebrity-crazed paparazzi culture that is currently plaguing us, had he not stopped photographying actively and isolated himself from the outside world the way he did in his late life. Maybe it was actually a good thing for photography that he took on painting and that he wasn't THAT good at it. Maybe not?

>Marcelo,

 

>I have tried16-bit linear with terrible results. Perhaps I have not >done it correctly. You seem to be suggesting that color negative film >be scanned as color positive. Do you apply levels in the prescan phase? >What profile do you use when opening up in Photoshop?

 

I am sorry to hear that you got terrible results with 16bit linear. My suggestion works for me, but I am not a reala user so perhaps there is something about reala that makes it especially difficult to scan well. Levels can be applied before scanning (gain correction), but curves and color balance corrections are done later in the image editor. No profiles are involved. I believe Ian Lyons' site has pointers on scanning negatives as positive. I am sure there are tons of articles to that effect here on PN as well, especially in regards to eliminating the effect of the orange mask in negative film, which I remember reading about here on PN. Good luck!

Robert

 

Are you sure that the frames are sharp? I have had no problems with the 5400 as far as its ability to lock focus, even with fine grained film. As far as the colors, I suggest scanning as positive in 16bit linear and then inverting and applying curves in your image editor. Hope this helps. MD

Excellent, Roger! Look forward to that.

Roger. I am interested in trading prints, if that's still a possiblity. Thanks so much.

Thanks to all for the input.

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The REAL choscker is that he shot the assignment on print film rather. That's very uncharacteristic of NG.

Grant:

 

When scanning in 16bit linear, do you then apply the posi linear profile supplied with the 5400, or do you use your own color profiles? I am using Faust profiles, but scan in 16bit mode without applying software corrections, which should be equivalent to using 16bit linear (should it not?). Thanks.

Producing fine prints inevitably requires post processing. This applies equally to film and digital capture. The means in the darkroom and desktop are different, but the end goal is the same: to apply local and global corrections for sharpness, contrast, lightness, color balance, etc, etc. Digital capture makes it a little easier to achieve the end goal faster (and cheaper, I might add) than film, but to think that digital capture will always give you images that you can send directly to print w/o corrections is rather naive. Personally, I shoot RAW and process my images with Capture One. Film gets scanned and outputted to inkjet or the Frontier. Both digital and film images get processed in Photoshop.

Have you tried Epson's Archival Matte profile? Prints should look fine with this profile. If they don't, either you are setting something incorrectly or you have clogged nozzles or you have a low cartridge. On one ocassion I was getting dark prints with awful banding and as it turned out, the problem was fixed after replacing the light black cartridge (which was indicating about 20% ink left when it apparently was empty).

Do make sure to cross Rio de la Plata to Colonia, a colonial town on the Uruguayan coast. In B.A., La Boca is quite colorful and should give you plenty of photo opportunities. I would definitely chose Montevideo over La Plata, but hey, I am biased! If the weather is nice (it will be spring) a trip to Punta del Este and the coast of Rocha will be worth it too.

For every whiner you can find on PN, there will be many many users out there busy using the product without problems whatsoever. My experience with the 5400 has been great from the start, and I bought mine immediately after being released. Noise has not been an issue for me. The scanner makes some whirrs when it calibrates and some clunks when the holder is being loaded and focus is being set, but I found it very quiet during actual scanning.

>>Advice: Since the flatbed scanners can't get the black tonalities as well as a dedicated film scanner, overexpose the slides about 1 stop and underexpose the neg's by 1 stop.<<

 

That is poor advice.

A very appropriate article on this subject can be found here http://www.rawworkflow.com/making_pictures/index.html

I've used vuescan in the past with a previous Nikon scanner but couldn't see much of an advantage over the Minolta software. I guess I'll try it with Velvia 100F. Thanks for the advice. Do you guys use profiles on Vuescan?