dave404

<p>I will stick with my WiFi Pro card. My 5D3 is plenty of camera and but the WiFi link really rocks people when I shoot and have the shots show up on my tablet right in front of them. My GPS solution has not been working out as I carry a Garmin eTrex with me on Euro vacations, etc and attempt to geotag photos based on time but it seems to think my longitude is positive and that puts me Kazakhstan. Garmin needs to fix basecamp, or I need to find a better alternative when I have time. </p>

<p>Interesting that they do not seem intent on replacing the 5DIII. The ISO is not as wide and the fps is lower. The 50 MP is way to much 99% of the time for me (I still need to hit the delete key more often and clean up my files). </p>

<p>If you are going to Lens correction to correct keystoning or similar issue, I would certainly defer the crop until after that has been done. No big reason to crop in ACR since CS6? (or was it in 5) has improved the crop tool. </p>

<p>On my 20D I found the 70-200 a bit overpowered much of the time. However I was building towards a better equipment collection. So I did not stick with EOS 1.6 crop factor lenses. When I finally tried my 70-200 2.8L lens on a full frame camera the 5D (loaned by someone that wanted free photography and got it), I ordered the 5D MKI the next day. I was waiting and waiting for the Mk II but I had to make the move. So I skipped the MKII and finally got the much better AF in the 5D MKIII. The 70-200 range is a perfect range on a full frame camera but not on a 1.6 crop camera. But, then you have to start somewhere. </p> <p> </p>

<p>The 5D MI would be a good choice as a low cost but great camera. The sensor is very nice. The autofocus is a bit out of date but its actually the same as the 5DMKII. I see them on eBay at around $400. That said how much wear and tear have they been through? Who knows. I see 5D MK IIs at around $800. Better ISO, same old AF than the MK1. Usually with eBay I let the bidding play out and try to come in right before it closes. A lot of people do it that way, it becomes a battle in the last 15 minutes. </p>

<p>Ah the good old days with the dodging mask blocking the light in the enlarger to tease out details in the image followed by a few baths and a dry out then inspection and then repeat until done. I'm done with that. </p>

<p>This one is easy enough to fix in Photoshop by opening a hue/sat adjustment layer, select the green on the back of his head with the eyedropper, then dial down the saturation. Then add a layer mask and just paint the back of his head. It took me a few seconds. You could also do it with a photofilter layer by sampling the color and inverting the A-B components since the subjects skin is pretty neutral.</p> <p>The bright foliage is acting like a green reflector and hence the green cast. Typically you see this in green screen photography where the spill can be big headache to remove. </p>

<p>I had a few experiences travelling overseas with my equipment. A good insurance policy and avoiding walking around alone are probably the best ways to avoid disaster. When you know little about a country it pays to have someone around that does.<br> In Naples I was part of a tour group that let us have a good amount of time to navigate the country by ourselves (and make fools of ourselves). At one point I was looking up a street with another guy that saw the same photographic possibilities with these thin windy streets with plenty of restaurants, shops and other good targets for photography. Suddenly the guy in charge of our group yelled at us to come over, with plenty of rapid hand gestures, he said, you walk up that street it starts to wind around, you get lost. Then he pulls on my shirt "You won't come back with your clothes". I had the full backpack and big 70-200 lens so I was an inviting target. Yeah, the heavy gear sticks out. <br> In Paris I was walking in the Tuileries Garden near the Louvre when a man ran several hundred feet then slowly walked up to to me asking if I wanted him to take my picture with my coworker (whom he must have assumed was my wife or something) with my 5D (Mk1) and the nice 24-70 L lens. I saw this guy eyeing me from a distance and knew what was happening. I also was with two other people and I did not hand over my camera like a fool. So pay attention to your surroundings.<br> But, if you never take risks with your equipment you might as well never buy it. </p> <p> </p>

<p>You will have to hold onto the lens not the body since it will weight a lot more than the body. I want to purchase this lens but its been on back order for a long, long time. </p>

<p>On the crop body I did not like my 24-70 but on my 5D3 I love it. You probably need the 17 mm. The expense is another issue. The 17-55 is also a bit lighter. </p>

<p>There are a lot of these 17-40s on Ebay much less than B&H new price.<br> </p>

<p>I like my 5D3 a lot but the cost was a bit steep. It seems the 6D has most of the capabilities and is also FF so your 24-70 will operate as it should, as a 24-70. I hated it on my 20D with the APC sensor. <br> The do love the improved autofocus on the 5D3. Although the 5D3 lacks a native WiFi connection I use the EyeFi Pro card and upload as I shoot to my Android tablet. This is a big hit when I am shooting events and people can see what I am shooting. This beats teathered shooting. I just do medium resolution JPG since the uploads are slow with RAW files, but it works great. So the lack of WiFi in the camera body itself is not an issue. <br> So you could get another lens and the 6D for the same price as the 5D3. Or you could wait and see what the 5D4 is like. Decisions decisions. </p>