fraczekp
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Posts posted by fraczekp
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Dunno about the tamron, but I do have the 24-120 and its an acceptable lens. It's has amzing contrast but its so-so when it comes to the sharpness. The right side of my lens is little softer than the left side (?!!?). Personally, if I had to do it again, I would get a top model of the 3rd party vs getting the 24-120. (**SIGH** I wish it was little sharper 'casue I sure do like the 24-120 focal range). I think bythom.com does a good job reviewing it.... (http://www.bythom.com/24120ens.htm)
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(perhaps one day I will learn how to post things correctly).
Anyway, I meant my 70-300 ED.
And the image is:
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Dunno about the G version...
My 70-300 is great up until 200mm... amazing contrast, great sharpness..... a and above 200 I tend to see a lot of this:
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<A HREF="http://www.fraczek.net/images/d200noise.jpg">A picture is worth a 1000 words.... (Link)</A><BR><BR>
Untreated ISO 400 1/8 at F/8 with my 35mm 2.8 AIS (manually metered)<BR><BR>
While (somewhat) correctly exposed the results are ugly in 1:1. In retrospect, I suppose I could have shot at f/4 and used 100 instead, but that would be too thoughtful, wouldn't it? I guess it's worth keeping in mind that higher ISOs will be noisy (duh!) - but not this noisy.<BR><BR>
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Well, as you said the honeymoon is over for me too...
I agree and I find the D200 noisy (worse than the D50 I used to have -- imagine that), but then again, let's look at the target audience for the D200. It was never meant to compete with the silky D2x as it is not a professional camera. So while it will produce stunning 5x7s or full screen shots it will be less suitable for enlargements without post-processing.
Slightly without much though here is an observation.... Interestingly enough, I found the P and A modes on the D200 resulting in slightly brighter jpgs -- I wonder if that's just one way Nikon tried to help the noise problem
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Whatever you do, don't format the card... copy the pictures to a backup location using a card reader or the camera itself first! If you formatted it, oh well, there are ways to recover the info but nothing as easy as backing up the data first.
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I had 2 extra batteries (off brand) to supplement my original one on the D50. Never had issues with it -- yes they seemed to hold less charge but so what? Reach for another one and replace it when you see the levels drop. Nikon batteries are over-priced. If a battery fails without a warning it could be an indication of 2 things: Carelessness or faulty battery meter.
Sony is evil. I've had enough of their evil schemes forced upon customers.
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Film or Digital?
135mm f/2 DC lens will give you the angle of a 200mm with plenty of DOF to work with. The lens loves to be shot at f/2 and is truly a gem as I have discovered in the last few days.
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This view of the sealing is quite optimistic!
Almost like looking at the last beer bottle in your fridge half full instead of half empty....
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Good question... I was wondering myself...
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Just picked up a "second hand" one and have a quick question about
the inner workings of the lens....
When using auto focus and each focusing limit is reached (ex
infinity or near limit) you can hear a distinct "hit" indicating
that it's the end of the run at which point the lens hunts
backwards. It's rather loud to a point where it makes me question
it.
Is the "bang" normal? None of the other Nikkors I've used have this
interesting "feature" -- yes, they all have a slight "clunk" when
hitting the end of scale, but not loud to a point where it makes you
clench your teeth.
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One more item for D-typed lenses....
http://support.nikontech.com/cgi-bin/nikonusa.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=9572
Although an approximation and the maringally useful information plays a role in matrix metering. If you use center or spot, the D lens plays no advantage.
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I recall reading that D lenses provide the camera the distance info (hence D) instead of letting the camera do the guess work on the subject distance. The inconsistencies most likely come from incorrect flash output calculation based on wrong distance info. Anyone with more technical explanation?
I actually have the 50 f/1.8 E, 50 f/1.8 AIS, 50 f/2 and the 50 f/1.8 D (don't ask why) and all of them are great. Series E and the new 50 D seem to be my favorites but that's just a personal preference. I would not hesitate to get the 50 non-d version after all, if you don't like it, you can always e-bay with only few cents of losses.
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Yes. A point and shoot (digital).
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If you tilt the door 30 degrees you can pull it off without any damage... it's shown in the MB100 manual. Easy to do. Stow the door in the "connector compartment" on the MB. The rubber cap for connectors stows on the batter pack as well.
Enjoy!
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Here is an interesting article about the 70-180 Micro Nikkors and a table of the effective f stops.
http://www.nikon.co.jp/main/eng/portfolio/about/history/nikkor/n18_e.htm
Lubricate Nikon (MF) Lens?
in Nikon
Posted
Easy job to.
What is the exact lens you are trying to take apart (first few digits of the sn#)?
First, if you are not ready to deal with consequences, give it to a technician.
But if you can remember how to undo the damage, take the 3 screws that are holding the bayonet mount off. Gently, remove the mount. What you should see is more weird mechanism. At this point, you should be able to take the aperture ring off (it works this way for 3 of the 3 50mms I took apart). Once the ring comes off, using a soft tooth brush, clean the area where it adheres to the lens and the insides of the aperture ring. Personally, I would not use any grease on the aperture ring. You can wipe the inside of the ring with any liquid oil soaked tissue but leave no residue. You want it to be nice and crisp. A good cleaning will do just that.
The "sitting part" of the aperture clicks can be tricky. There is an element on the aperture ring that is etched that results in the "click". If the edges are worn out you won't acheive the desired effect, but let's hope they are just clogged up.
Then put the rest together. Do not over tighten the 3 bayonet screws.
A word or advice before you take the lens apart -- sometimes when the ping and prong coupling aka. "bunny ears" were removed and the screws were inserted to cover the holes, the depth of the screws can be preventing the free movement of the aperture ring.
(btw... my lawyers want everyone to know that hereby I shall not be liable for any damages caused from the directions posted above.... yadda yadda yadda... Do it at your own risk, but please do let us know how it worked out).