marek_fogiel

Ladislav Kamarad is well known on this site. A remarkable photographer.

Lee,

A short answer: with digital making fast progress, you might get a digi back for the Hassy at

a low price someday, but for me the real point is a different one. If you want to shoot colour,

then, a digital back could be an overkill, on the other hand, if you shoot B&W, digital is still

miles behind - shoot your film, develop yourself and scan on a good scanner - your digi

friends will envy the results.

If you want a modern, sharp, flare free lens with a great image plasticity and good bokeh,

Planar is hard to beat, and it is very competitively priced. Older Leica lenses are sometimes

preferred for softer, more "retro" looking shots, but that's a different story.

You can only guess... But the demand drives the supply, so as long as people will want to

buy film, it will be produced. For me, the most obvious reason for using film, is the B&W

photography, where the digital is still light years behind. As for processing - I have tried

to avoid it as much as possible, but finally, after my pro lab destroyed my last 6 rolls of MF

film I will start developing myself - this takes very little effort and you do not need the

darkroom. For the rest, I scan and then print on fiber paper with pigment inks- the results

are almost as good as traditional silver print, the control is better, it is a lot easier and

faster, so I don't see much problem. If you want to shoot colour, then I believe digital is a

more cost and result effective choice.

Tom, the Planar is a better lens not only than the Summarit, but also than the Summicron, and you can buy it from japan for about 300 quid, so it is a no brainer. Be warned: this is a sharp lens, if you want something for portraiture, you better get the C Sonnar.

Here's my gallery of planar shots:

I haven't had any problems, I actually like the short and light advance on the Ikon better than a somewhat more elaborate movement you have to do on the M7. As far as the ZI not being as robust as Leica M7, it is true, but it is also true, that you can get 3 Ikon bodies for 1 M7 body. What you can't get out of an M7, no matter how many of them you have, is a decent viewfinder, 1/2000th of the second on the speed dial, and a film loading scheme appropriate for photographers and not fans of building ships in small bottles.

I'd advise you to get the part replaced, and then advance the lever not with the tip of your thumb, but with the middle part, this way you get a better grip on the camera and you put less pressure on the lever - it feels more natural to me.

Edmund, go out happy and shoot with your new camera...

And to reconcile various brands, here are some shots:

Leica M7:

http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=1988723255&size=l

Zeiss Ikon:

http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=1096255141&size=l

Nikon FM3A:

http://www.flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=1558660052&size=l

 

The trick is to always have your camera with you...

 

Ciao

You have narrowly missed the actual win - Leica MP is an obsolete camera with a nonsense

like film loading and a quite poor viewfinder, plus it is grossly overpriced. You should have

tried the Zeiss Ikon with the 35/2 Biogon - which, BTW is also a better lens than the Leica 35

ASPH, albeit a little bit bigger. You would have saved 3000USD and walked away with a better

tool... However, if you manage to get used to the MP, it will surely give you a lot of joy,

because at the tactile level this camera is a jewel, and you will be inclined to use it often,

which is the main point of the story... Enjoy your RF !

Parasko. you seem to have the Leica bug... so you will probably end up buying inferior and

overpriced Leica gear - nothing wrong with that, as long as you will enjoy it and use it

well, haha... A better option would be to get the Zeiss Ikon with the 50 Planar, and spend

the money saved on other lenses and a good scanner... here are a few ZI+Planar shots:

http://flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=1777480380&size=l

http://flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=1505464114&size=l

http://flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=1096255141&size=l

http://flickr.com/photo_zoom.gne?id=989193055&size=l

R Fred,

In the last year, I have bought 6 rf cameras, including Bessas, Leica M7, and Zeiss Ikons, as

well as 11 rf lenses, including Zeiss ZM, Leica ASPH and CV ASPH glass.

I have just posted my conclusions in the rf forum, however, there are 2 things I am certain

about:

1- Zeiss Ikon - if you need a camera for taking photographs, and not other pursuits, like

fondling, bragging or driving nails, is the best rf BY A WIDE MARGIN!

2- the Zeiss ZM lenses do all the Leica lenses can do, plus they do more: they have better

flare control, better bokeh and better image plasticity, or 3D effect, if you prefer.

 

All this, especially if you buy on the bay from Japan, costs 1/3rd of the current

"equivalent" Leica gear, so frankly, there's nothing to talk about, and if you want an

analogy from the car world, the Leica can be a Range Rover, but a model from early

sixties, while the ZI may be a Toyota, but from the latest car show...

 

My overall opinion about the current Leica M equipment, is that it is seldom markedly

better in any performance measure than other products, but it is always the worst in terms

of value for money performance.

 

Take a look at these flickr pages:

 

You will find lot's of shots with the equipment specifications included.

Parasko,

If you wear glasses, like me, and want a RF with AE mode - like me (my street shots are

not there to wait for me to meter manually, and if I have the time to meter manually, then I

take out a tripod and my Hasselblad), then the decision is a no brainer:

 

- for the 28mm the best set up is the Bessa R4A with a compact 28mm- I use the Elmarit

28/2.8 ASPH for its sharpness and compactness. This way you get a very good vision of

the 28mm frame (you see a single frame in the VF with some outside relief) and you get

next to no vignetting from the lens. If you want to spend less and don't mind the speed,

the CV 28/3.5 is a terrific lens you can use with an adapter, all for very little money.

 

- for the 35 and 50 mm the best set up is the Zeiss Ikon with the lenses of your choice. I

invite you to take a look at the Zeiss ZM lenses - in my opinion they are giving as sharp

photos as Summicrons, with less flare, better bokeh and more 3D looking images, and at

less than half the price - in other words they outclass Leica glass. The ZI itself has a VF

which ridicules the Leicas altogether, is easier to load and is made well enough to give you

a lot of pleasure from use.

I d o use the M7 as well (0.85x), only with the 50mm lenses, as you can't see the 35mm

frames if you wear glasses, and the reason is it gives me a slightly tighter frame for the

50mm (but messed up with the 75 additional frame as well), and above all, because it has

a slightly more silent shutter than the ZI, and I use this camera mainly for stealth shooting

in interiors, like bars, etc...It is a nice camera, but inferior to the ZI in most aspects which

matter photographically.

Take a look at my flickr pages, where you will find relevant technical camera and lens info

next to all the shots:

Also, take a look at this group, where you can see pool shots from various lenses by

selecting a particular lens tag:

 

My advice for an ideal combo, would be:

2 camera kit:

R4A+Elmarit 28/2.8 ASPH

ZI+Planar 50/2, or C Sonnar 50/1.5(the second one has focus shift problems, and is in my

opinion prevalently an incredible portrait lens)

1 camera kit:

Zeiss Ikon+Zeiss Biogon 35/2 - this is a dream combination for general shooting, if you

are more of a low light guy. an alternative to the Biogon is the CV Nokton 35/1.2, the best

low light lens ever made.

If you should inherit some money and want a 3 camera kit, then:

R4A+Elmarit 28/2.8 ASPH, or Summicron 28/2

Zeiss Ikon+35/2 Biogon

M7(0.85)+Summilux 50/1.4 ASPH

 

BTW, for getting the CV and ZI equipment on the cheap, check out rangefinderforum.com

if in the USA and Matsuiastore on the bay if not.

I do not use the Summicron, but I use the Elmarit ASPH (much smaller) on a R4A - the hood

intrudes a little bit, and it will intrude more with the Summicron, but you can live with it - I

think the R4A is a great rf ror the wide angles. If you haven't bought it yet, and want a really

ideal camera for the Summicron 28 (providing you do not wear glassses), get the Zeiss Ikon -

it has the vf placed much further away from the lens, and I doubt you wil get any vignetting,

plus it is the best rf camera ever made.

I suggest, instead of using the VF of your R3M for your 40mm Nokton, you could cut out a

rectangular hole in a matchbox, and use this for framing your shots, while you aim the lens

more or less in the direction of your subject - you are assured of taking shots of SOMETHING

anyway...

While the best effect should be obtained with the rotating holder, I thing actually the best

cost effective solution is to use your regular MF film holder,after removing the flaps and

getting a custom cut sheet of anti newton glass for it. There's a company selling this on line,

try to google for it - I use one of my Doug Fisher's glass inserts originally bought for the

Epson V750. This way you keep the glass surfaces down to a minimum, you can still scan 3

6x6 frames in on go and you save some 480 USD...

Edmund,

If you like B&W photography, then the answer is relatively easy - for well composed and

focused shots, speed, ease of use, nothing beats a rangefinder for general purpose

photography. However a SLR has its place for longer lens and/or close up shooting, It is

also ideal, if you really want to control the dof and minute detail of your composition.

The cameras I would wholeheartedly recommend as best in their categories are: Zeiss Ikon

(possibly with Zeiss ZM lenses, which I repute better than current Leica lenses) and Nikon

FM3A with Zeiss ZF lenses - in particular, I enjoy immensely the quality of the 50 and 100

Makro Planars. You can take a look at my flickr - you will find camera, lens and film

reference next to each shot:

If you like colour, I feel digital is already in advantage over film, and here the only half

baked rangefinder worth trying is Leica M8, but it is a first generation product full of

compromises, so it might make sense to stick to a DSLR for now, and wait for a better DRF

camera.

If you undo the regular MF film holder and get a slice of the anti newton glass to put on top

of film, you can accommodate longer film strips, although you have to be careful not to scan

the 3rd shot, but to invert the strip after the second frame, invert, and scan the other 2

frames - this way you do not risk that the lid of the carriage bends your sticking out film.

Also, remember to remove the right screw in the holder, to avoid buckling the film. There

are sellers of these AN glass inserts in the market - check on the net.

My advice would be to get the C Biogon 21/4.5 and the Bessa R4A instead of a viewfinder.

This combination will cost you the same as the Biogon 21/2.8 with the Zeiss 21 finder, and

you get an extra body with no hassle as a bonus. I can even use this combo wearing glasses

- the lens is so compact it does not intrude too much in the vf.

I guess this lens in perfect condition (if it is a T* version) should be worth around a 1000

USD. I'd suggest just use it without worrying too much about the specs... The thing to

remember, is to avoid getting light sources pointing it, and to shade it when firing the shots.

There is a very big rubber lens shade made for it - quite rare at this point, which helps

limiting the flare. This lens works best for distant objects sharpness wise. Check the long

times - the C lenses often need a CLA of the shutter. Generally, you will get more

information here:

http://www.hasselbladhistorical.eu/

The most versatile 6x6 second hand option is the Hasselblad V system - most digi backs can

be used with it, while likely an interesting 6x4,5 alternative could be the 645 Mamiya, as it

has its own digi back, and has just entered into a partnership with Phase One. Rollei is

another option, but from what I know, much more expensive.

Grady,

Your question is like that of someone asking if Jaguar E type is better than an Alfa Romeo

Giulietta (both cars made in the 60') on today's highways.

Get up to date.

The camera which is not only best, but cheaper than Leica - and this relates especially to a

glass wearer - is the Zeiss Ikon. The same regards the lenses- the 50/2 Planar is in my

opinion better than a Summicron. If you want the "dreamy portrait lens" get the C Sonnar

50/1.5 as well, and you will be set.

Scott,

Try all films. Nothing will be as good as a silver B&W film, and you can control the dust and scratches if you develop yourself. I've tried everything and for me, desaturating colour is a bad joke. XP2 and BW400CN are great for portraits or for beach/snow photos, but they do not stand up to silver emulsions for everything else. Two best films at both ends are Reala and Acros.

Although HP5+ has a very wide latitude, you should simply decide if you want to expose for the patterns on the window (or outside) or for the detail on the plants, so you take the direct reading towards the window, and an incident reading toward the lens. These are the two extremes, if you want to compromise a bit, make an in between exposure closer to the desired effect - there is no universal rule, it will depend on the quality of light, the delta in the readings and the film.

Doug's holer is a must, and the ANR glass as well. Without them it really doesn't make any sense to use this scanner with the MF.

I have done the tests of my CS 9000 against the Epson V750, which is a better scanner than the one you have. The only doubt in favour of Epson could relate to scanning B&W silver films, where the diffuse light flatbeds get a better tonality right off the bat. This being said, if you do not enlarge beyond 5 or 6 times, maybe the CS 9000 for you is an overkill. Th CS will scan transparencies better at any magnification, and it will give you better control over your image because you don't have to oversharpen it to get a decent resolution.

Jonathan,

That was shot on Ilford Delta 400. If you go to this group:

you can select a given lens and see photos taken by different partecipants - most of the shots will have the relevant technical details.