elliot1

<p><em>"not comparing apples with apples"</em><br>

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True but 600mm FOV is just that, it is not a true 600mm. The Nikon 500mm lens delivers a genuine 500mm.<br>

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Don't get me wrong, I am thrilled with my Olympus system, just disappointed with the cost of these two new lenses.<br>

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<p>Interesting lenses but a bit pricey perhaps.</p>

<p>Nikon 300mm f4: around $1300</p>

<p>Nikon 200-500mm, around $1400</p>

<p><em>" I have tried everything I can possibly think of to get it in sharpness...but simply cannot. "</em><br /> <br /> I owned an used this lens for several years for event photography and never had a sharpness problem. Few ever complain about sharpness issues with it. This lens is known for its sharpness So it sounds like the lens is not functioning as it should.<br /> <br /> Having it checked by experts makes sense. After all, who would want to use any lens that does't provide satisfactory image quality for any reason?</p>

<p>Do you think the focus issue you are experiencing is due to poor AF or bad optics? Do you ever get really, really sharp images, either with AF or MF?</p>

<p>For the cost of shipping, you can have Nikon check your lens for you. Should there be an issue, the repair cost would probably be reasonable and would probably be worthwhile doing.</p>

<p><em>" <strong>freezing motion</strong>. obviously, that is not possible at slower shutter speeds"</em></p>

<p>Depending on the age and type of lighting at a particular venue, high shutter speeds are usually not possible. Most venues for amateur hockey events have less than ideal lighting. That is just a fact.</p>

<p>2/3rds of a stop improvement on a D80 would be a nice upgrade. Your math is a bit fuzzy though. The upgrade cost of selling a 50mm f1.8 G lens and upgrading to a used 50mm f1.4 G lens is only about $150, a very affordable upgrade for a small amount of money IF the OP wants to keep his D80.</p>

<p>The ultimate upgrade for best AF and IQ would be a full frame body.</p>

<p>The D80 is a good camera but a bit dated for shooting hockey not only with regards to its higher ISO performance, but most importantly with regards to its AF abilities. For AF purposes alone, you would probably be much happier with a newer body.</p>

<p>And although many are recommending high shutter speeds, unless you are shooting at pro facilities, the lighting systems will not allow for good results at those shutter speeds. I have shot hockey at some older venues where 1/160 was the maximum shutter speed I could use effectively. Newer venues typically allow effective shooting at up to 1/500. In any case, some of the most interesting action shots I have taken were at 1/80 or slower. Obviously you cannot do this if shooting around the goal area.</p>

<p>What age group of players are you shooting? Where will you be seated? What is your budget?</p>

<p>But ultimately if you are happy with your current body and lens, going to the f 1.4 version is a simple, inexpensive upgrade that will give you improved results because you will be able to shoot at slightly lower ISOs.</p>

<p>2</p><div></div>

<p>1</p><div></div>

<p><em>"and i wana use existing camera and lens i need extension tube or reverse converter."</em><br>

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Either an extension tube set (automatic type) of a reversing ring will work.</p>

<p>What is your budget? What will you be doing with the images? Automatic extension tubes are available under $50. New and used macro lenses vary in price but in most cases will be substantially more expensive.</p>

<p>You will find that pretty much all m43 lenses render excellent IQ including the kit lens. And they are for the most part quite affordable compared to other brands.</p>

<p>Enjoy your new camera!</p>

<p>Congratulations on your new body. For the E-PL1 (I have one but have not used it in a looooooong time), the speed of the card will not really matter, but if you plan on using a body in the future that can take advantage of fast cards, you may want to consider faster cards now.</p>

<p>What lenses do you have?</p>

<p>An interesting feature on the E-PL1 is that the flash can be angled up for bounce flash (you have to hold it at the angle you want). Few pop-up flashes do this.</p>

<p>Shooting RAW and using good image processing software will give you the best results, especially at higher ISOs.</p>

<p>For anyone interested, the 200-500mm is currently still available in limited quantities at Best Buy through their website and also available from several authorized Nikon USA dealers on eBay (reputable sellers with high positive feedback) including Best Buy's eBay division.</p>

<p>Shooting at 400mm or above with any lens, even those with VR, requires good technique and proper exposure settings (with regard to shutter speed) in order to achieve good results.</p>

<p><em>"</em><em>why stick only with Nikon flashes?"</em> I can think of several reasons, with the main one being compatibility. Overall quality and durability also come to mind. Accurate exposure are another.<br>

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I buy third party accessories but when in comes to a flash, because there are so many complexities involved to get the correct exposure, especially when using bounce flash.<br>

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Often, used Nikon gear can be purchased for around the same price as new 3rd party options. (I am not saying there are not good third party flashes, but Nikon flashes consistently do a great job and are generally quite durable.)<br>

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If you are shooting as an amateur, it may not matter as much, but if you are shooting professionally, you might want to stick with Nikon. </p>

<p>In addition to the above, there are a couple of more reasons that I can think of. An external flash has its own power supply so you don't use the camera's battery.</p>

<p>As well, most external flashes allow you to rotate the flash head so, for example, you can bounce the light off of a ceiling. This tends to give a much more natural, non-flash look to pictures. (I always try to make my flash picture have the look of natural lighting and that is often difficult to do with built-in flashes.)</p>

<p>As far as which one to pick, that really depends on your budget. I would suggest that whichever flash you choose, you stick with genuine Nikon flashes.</p>

<p>Pool fun</p><div></div>

<p>You may enjoy this article about the high res mode:</p>

<p>http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/olympus-e-m5-ii/olympus-e-m5-iiTECH2.HTM</p>

<p>This young lady was modeling for me at a recent family event.</p><div></div>

<p>sunrise</p><div></div>

<p>This week's 'blood moon'</p><div></div>

<p>There are numerous factors which can come into play when it comes to exposure. You may find this previous thread of interest:</p>

<p>http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00aKLZ</p>

<p>Ultimately, if you shoot RAW and get an underexposed image, you can easily balance the image without blowing out the highlights. It is possible with JPG images, but is not as easy and not always as successful. Ultimately you want to get the exposure right or as close to being correct as possible in camera.</p>

<p>It is also important to understand that under many shooting circumstances, especially when the scene has strong bright and dark areas, that the camera's meter can be not as accurate as you want it to be, which is where spot metering becomes quite advantageous.</p><div></div>

<p>Extension tubes are an inexpensive way to turn any lens into a close focusing lens and may be an excellent choice depending on what lenses do you have now. What lenses do you currently use? How close do you need to get? What type of shots are you referring to?</p>

<p>For this lens, yes, you are definitely better off taking it directly to Nikon, and the Melville facility has always done an excellent job for me on the several occasions I have had to use them.<br>

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They always give an estimate before completing a repair which you have to approve before they will do the work. Their work also comes with a guarantee (don't recall how long it is so you should ask).</p>

<p>What you are experiencing is not normal for that lens (I have one). When did you buy the lens? Was it purchased new or used (if new it would have warranty) If used, can it be returned? Was there any warranty from the seller?</p>