elliot1

<p>RTuhin, you stated <a href="/photodb/user?user_id=819353" rel="nofollow">because of its very high MP , I was having doubts regarding its usability at high ISO</a>"<br /> <br /> It is exactly because of the high MP count and sensor [FX] size that you get incredible results at high ISO - images are low in noise and full of detail - at levels you cannot match with any DX body, including the D500.</p>

<p>Michael, when it comes to high ISO performance, the D810 is far superior to any DX body.</p> <p><em>"Users forget that in or</em><em>der to get the low noise benefits of the D810, you need an excellent, heavy duty tripod and technique."</em></p> <p>Excellent technique will certainly help with improved image quality (with most bodies regardless of format), especially with very high megapixel bodies, but the low noise benefits really come from the larger sensor size.</p>

<p>#3</p><div></div>

<p>#2</p><div></div>

<p>some more butterfly shots...</p><div></div>

<p>While IQ has not improved tremendously, it has improved over its predecessor none-the-less. There have been improvements in certain specific features which will appeal to many pros making the investment in the D5 worthwhile and a valuable upgrade.</p> <p>The bottom line is that there is more...</p>

<p>birds</p><div></div>

<p>17mp dx crop from a D8xx compared to a 24mp DX - all thing being equal, it should be pretty much impossible to see a difference between the two.</p> <p>It would still be difficult to see a difference from a DX drop from a 24mp FX sensor (approx 10mp) compared to a native 24mp DX frame - there just isn't a huge real resolution difference. But ultimately the final print size must be taken into account.</p>

<p>Another 'moth'...</p><div></div>

<p>This one is actually considered a moth...</p><div></div>

<p>Butterfly</p><div></div>

<p>If you did not mention the haze issue in your listing, since you were aware of it you should take the lens back and issue a full refund, including all shipping charges. If you don't, he will likely file a claim against you with eBay anyway.</p>

<p>Capture is not necessarily a program I would choose as my preferred choice to process high ISO NEFs - there are many third party programs that offer far improved results. I use software that maintains good detail and delivers noise free IQ for my high ISO images.</p> <p>I am curious how DXO will rate the sensor... time will tell.</p> <p>Enjoy your new body!</p>

<p>Out-of-the-camera JPGs are not really a fair comparison as newer bodies have improved dramatically as far as their JPGs go, while the sensors have only improved modestly.</p>

<p><em>"It just seems the image is flatter and not as colorful or contrasty as I would expect or am used to. "</em><br /> <br /> This has to do with your picture control settings and is easy to adjust.<br /> <br /> As far as sharpness goes, if your lenses were sharp before on your older bodies, they should be just as sharp on your D810 - the AF may need manual adjustment for each lens, again easy to do...<br /> </p>

<p>Without breaking the bank, a good lens choice might be a Nikon 85mm f1.8 lens (AFS version, not the D version). I would also recommend using a tripod.</p> <p>Shooting in low light can be tricky. I would suggest turning auto ISO on, shoot in M (manual) exposure mode. Set the aperture to f1.8 and the shutter speed to 1/30. Since the subjects are not moving, you should be able to get decent results with these setting if you are using a tripod.</p> <p> </p>

<p>Worth it? If you use your 70-200mm often, you will definitely be pleased with the new version over the old. If not and you really only want a backup, you will probably be happier with Nikon's new 200-500mm per Kent's recommendation over the 70-200mm with a TC.</p>

<p>Your D5 shots appear to be shot at ISO 4000 while your D700 shots are at ISO 6400. Not that anyone would expect a D700 to produce the clean results of the high ISO D5, but this it necessarily a fair comparison. And of course post processing comes into play, expecially when it comes to NR.</p> <p>I am not questioning whether the D5 is improved in <strong>every way</strong> over its predecessors, but when it comes to IQ at higher ISOs, older bodies like the D3/D700 can provide improved results now that approaches the results of newer bodies by processing RAW images with state-of-the-art image processing software. </p> <p>Frankly if I had a D5, I would never even think to use an older body.</p> <p> </p><div></div>

<p>The best backup body is usually an identical body to the main body.</p> <p>Although different bodies even from different manufacturers can produce comparable results. You would need to test them side-by-side to know for sure.</p>

<p>You will find that all Olympus (and Panasonic Lumix) lenses are excellent, even the lower priced ones. The primes are exceptional.</p> <p>A 20mm focal length (40mm FOV) lens may be one you would find useful. The Panasonic f1.7 versions is an excellent lens in every regard and is quite affordable at around $200 used.</p> <p> </p>

<p>Which AF mode and probably of more importance which AF point(s) are you using?</p>

<p>Keep what you use regularly and get rid of what you rarely or never use.</p>

<p>final one</p><div></div>

<p>another</p><div></div>

<p>Flowers</p><div></div>