glenn_holden

Anyone tried using the K10D yet in a tethered application to a computer like

the *ist D was able to do? Great for shooting and storing school pictures.

Pentax supplied the software for the *ist D. I do have the software for the

ist D but I am kind of reluctant to try it with the new K10 D until I know if

it would do any damage.

Seems like an obvious application, but I cannot find anything on the Pentax

site about it.

LGH.

Michael:

This is only a guess as I don't have any knowledge of the Sunpak 555, but I do of other flashes. I had a similiar problem with the ist DS. I suspect that the flash trigger in the K10d is not a simple contact closure, like it was in the older camers, but it is a solid state device which is triggered on. To function, it needs polarity applied in a certain direction, that is, I think, if I remember correctly, the tip (center contact) has to be positive with respect to the shell. Some flashes have this reversed, the tip is negative with respect to the shell, and the solid state device will not conduct. Of course, the flash will work fine on an older camera where there was a mechanical contact, but not on one of the later cameras with a electronic flash contact.

You will have to cut the cord and flip the inner wire and outer shield wire around, or use a wireless trigger (slave flash) for it to work.

I also understand someone makes a conversion device that works as well, but off hand I don't know who it was. I cut the cord and flipped the wires on the Vivitar flash and it worked ok with the dS.

LGH

Chris:

I second the above comments about it being safer than NYC or Paris. I spent 2 weeks in Morocco in 2005. I obviously looked like a tourist. Not much of a problem anywhere with a camera, I had a video and a DSLR with me, at all times, one or the other was out. In general, the people are quite friendly, just wave the camera at them, and most of them nod ok. If they don't put the camera down and try someone else. I made a deal with the water sellers before taking pictures, other than that, no one even wanted any money for the pictures.

The only problem was, when taking pictures of the kids, they all wanted to see themselves on the screen. Lots of local tourists had cameras as well, not just point and shoots, but DSLR's. In fact, in most major citys there are still steet photographers.

Walked through the Medina's at night, no problem, but it does get crowed a times. There are other areas I think you might not be so lucky in, however, I think they would be after your wallet rather than your camera. I always bargined with the taxi driver's (they expect it, part of the way of life there and there are either no meters or they don't work)- helps to know what the price is in advance. Check with the hotel staff, they usually know. If they won't come down (be reasonable a little bit above the local rate is ok), go to the next guy in line and try them. Never failed for me. By the way, I was told by a local not to pay the taxi driver in advance, only when you get to your destination.

I took a monopod with me, I find it much more useful than a tripod, I think you'd have trouble using a tripod in most areas as it can be quite crowed, especially at night.

Have a good time, lots of colorful things to photograph, I took over 2000 shots in two weeks.

LGH

I have a dS and a K10 as well as a variety of film Pentax camera. I'd say the K10D is not a beginner camera. The learning curve is quite steep, there is a "Jump Start" guide to the K10 which explains the use of the various functions better than the Pentax manual.

Just start with the camera in the green mode, it over rides virtually everything, and 90% plus of the time, it will give you very good results. After you develop some confidence, switch over to the program mode, it is now a hyper program mode, so you can change f stops and shutter speed and do a little experimenting. Then, you can try other modes/settings as your interest and skills develop.

Have fun, it's a good camera, and it will last you a while as you develop your photgraphic skills.

NP-400's cheap on fleabay, I bought some of the "new improved" ones that have a long life without self discharge for $23 each, but I understand that you can get them cheaper. I got 500 shots out of one with no flash use and just a little bit of screen review.

As someone suggested, get the 12 volt charger for the np-400's it's hard to find anywhere there isn't a 12 volt car battery you can re-charge from, but if you have two or three spares, it shouldn't really be a problem.

LGH

Try Tiger Direct as well. I bought a battery operated reader/hd enclosure and added in a 40 Gig hard drive. Works like a charm.

LGH

I second the idea of spare NP-400's with a 12 volt charger. Hard to find a place that doesn't have a vehicle nearby you could tap into the cigarette ligher of. Don't know how long you are planning on being away, but you can now get the long life replacements for the NP-400 which are supposed to have less self discharge, so they should last longer in storage without requiring re-charge. I paid $23 each for them, but I guess they might be cheaper on flea bay.

I have a K10D and got about 500 shots out of the battery, so for two or three batteries, you could probably get 1000-1500 without having to re-charge them.

LGH

I'm glad I saw this, I have the same problem with the 540. Works ok on the DS, but with the K10D, same as you found out. I just dialed in flash correction and it seems to work ok. I will be intersted to see others response to your question.

LGH

Yes, IMHO I think it is worth doing. Moving the flash off camera has some real advantages in everything from Macro to weddings as you can control the direction and "softness" of the light.

If the external flash is TTL compatible with the Pentax on Camera, and you connect it using the appropriate cord and receptacales, (I think Pentax calls it the "F" set) then it works ok with the DS. I use this set up on a rotating bracket to get the camera off flash for weddings, etc.

For more formal portrait setings, I use a simple set up of Vivitar 283's, with variable power modules and slave trippers. You can safely discharge the first 283 through the dS flash contact, on camera if you want. If you just want to supplement your on camera flash, for example as a fill light, then get a slave flash that syncs to the discharge of your camera flash. You don't need the cords this way.

Short answer- hope this helps.

LGH

Mine came today, after being back ordered for 6 months. Apparently Pentax is shipping them in batches, and slowly a few are getting to all parts of the US and Canada on a quota basis. Pentax told my dealer that it would be mid December for his (my) order, and they were a couple of days early. I understand the next batch will be late December or early January.

I have a DS as well, so the switchover time was about 1/2 hour to get up to speed on all the bells and whistles. I cannot find anything negative to say about it, and I am a picky person! Every complaint I had with the DS seems to have been addressed on the D10, even the "instant" push button switch from JPEG to RAW without having to go through the menu. I also like the switch for the meter weighting as well as the two thumb wheels for shutter and amperature. It is really very well thought out.

So, based on my 1/2 hour use at noon hour today, don't hesitate, it is everything everyone has said already.

I understand that the "grip" which I ordered as well, is not being made in the same location, and shipping of the next batch is now scheduled for early January.

Will try to post some pictures later this week. Does anyone know if the Delkin e-film from the K100 fits the K10? I have one on my DS and I find it really useful when using the menu outdoors.

LGH

Chris

I don't think I would try on line, the shipping will kill you.

Try a good graphic arts store near you. It's a lot less expensive to buy full sheets than the little cut pieces. Seems to me I had to buy $100 worth though, and I still have some left.

I've also bought from the local hobby store- black foam core board is often used by RRX folks to make modifications to their layouts.

I acutally once found some in my local building supply outlet as well, but they don't carry it anymore.

LGH.

IMHO, the Gitto (I think it is) Rocket blower is the only way to go.

Go to the bathroom (seriously) or another area of the house that doesn't have carpet on the floor. (Some people operate their shower for a few minutes first). You want to get nice clean air with no dust particles in it.

Clean exterior of camera first. Remove lens- clean mount with lens cleaning tissue. With mirror in down position, blow interior of camera clean with Rocket blower, do final cleaning with camera in down position.

Then, activate mirror up using bulb or use sensor cleaning on menu- blow clean with blower, again, do final cleaning with camera facing down (so dust particles are blown down and out).

Blow rear elements of lens clean before placing back on camera.

Test by taking a picture of a nice blue sky- then enlarge it up on the monitor- all the crop circles and dust particles should be gone.

LGH.

I love Turkey, I've been three times, it is a fantastic country. Do the underground cistern and look for the Roman head. If it's not busy, you can use a table top tripod.

Unfortunately, some of the "snatcher" stories are true. Two of the folks I was with two years ago both had their wallets stolen in the Grand Bazzair. One had his wallet in his rear pocket (stupid) and the other had a back pack reazor cut. One did find his wallet outside in the gutter with the money and credit cards gone.

Another time, one lady had the camera stolen from the back of a chair in a restaurant, we are not sure if it was when she got up to go to the washroom or not.

Not to scare you, just be careful. By the way, the tea/water sellers charge to take their picture, best to settle the amount up front first.

LGH

Marc:

Just watch what UPS will charge for "clearing" it through customs, these folks have a habit of charging whatever they think they can get away with, even if it is duty free!

Purolater is better, but it is best to have it sent USPS if you can.

Glenn

Folks:

To some extent you get what you pay for. Yes, the better chargers completely discharge the cell first before re-charging.

Ideally you want a "fast" charger that uses a peak detect circuit for each cell, rather than two or four parallel cells. The way this works, is it "hits" the cell with a slug of current, then nothing for a few seconds to allow the cell to cool then "hits" it again. The duration of the charge pulse varies as the cell starts to charge. The amplitude of the pulse also varies on the better chargers to suit the cell capacity (the higher the MA-Hr rating, the higher the amplitude of the pulse to it). On some of the less expensive chargers this is just a switch between AAA and AA charge rates.

You have to really look at the literature to see what you are getting as most peak detect chargers only work on a parallel combination of 2 cells.

However, for conventional "photo" use you could go through seveal sets of batteries and chargers for the price of just the peak detect charger.

Apparently the peak detect charger works to charge the cells faster than a steady charge rate. A trickle charger charges at typically 1/10 of the cell capacity.

My 2c anyway.

LGH

I was printing with a Cannon i 900 last night with new ink cartridges in it

(for the first time in about three months). I started out with a new package

of paper and the prints were fine. I ran out of the new paper, and went to

some older paper, maybe 6 months old, that had been opened for say probalby

3 months, of the same brand, surface, weight, finish, etc, (as far as I can

tell identical) but the colors are slightly off and the intensity "dull" for

want of a better description. I reprinted some of the previous pictures I had

done earlier on the new paper to be sure, and indeed, the older paper seems to

be the cause.

Does, indeed, ink jet paper age, once the package is opened? Has anyone had

other experiences like this, any idea what the shelf life of an open package

is? Do you keep the paper in a freezer like we used to do with color print

paper, or re-seal the package or what?

Any ideas/comments appreciated.

Sorry if this has been posted before, I could not find anything about ink jet

paper aging in the seach.

LGH

Will

When were you in Kajai? I've done three USAID missions there at the Kajaki powerhouse re-build, last time was August- September last year.

Don't remember hearing about any foreigners in the market, and we would have.

Curious because some of your pix look like our former guards!

LGH

As I understand it, the "native" speed of the sensor in the DS is about 160 ASA, so 200 is about as close as you can come. To go above that, you amplify the signal, but also the noise. To go below that would not increase the "quality" of the digital image in any way. So, the lowest ASA "speed" is normally that of the inherient "speed" of the sensor.

The use of a lower ASA seems to be a hang over from the old days when it was generally true, the lower the film speed the better the resolution, etc.

If you want to lower the equivelant sensor speed to agument your choice of shutter/f stop then you have to use a neutral density filter.

I carry a 2 stop ND filter with me for just this purpose- it helps give the nice smooth waterfalls effect if that's what you want.

LGH

Aaron:

I was in Morocco in November/December last year. Unlike some others, I found that most people didn't really mind having their picture taken. I'd waive the camera at them first, and most (but certaintly not all) would nod their head ok. If they said no, I didn't try to sneak any pix, just waived back and put it down. Lots of folks I took pictures of wanted to see their pix on the digital display on the camera.

Yes, I did pay some people like the ever present water sellers for their pix. Best to determine a price first then take the pix, that way there is no misunderstanding. I left a few coins for some pictures of the Nomads in the desert as well.

Another technique I found that works well is to sit down at an open air cafe and have a coffee for a few minutes before you reach for your camera. After a few minutes the locals seem to have accepted you, and you can usually casually get a few pix. Just don't put the camera down right after taking a picture so they don't know if you took a picture of them or not. Maybe sneaky, but it works. By the way, the people seem to have a lot more tolerance for a video camera, so if you treat your still camera like a video, they don't seem to notice as much (move it around a lot and pan it).

I took a 28-300 mm on a Pentax Ds, so I had the equivelant of a 450 mm lens on the camera. I also took a 20 Gig portable hard drive, you will need it.

Have a good trip.

Glenn

LGH

Boris:

I have a Unilock which is the "improved" version of the Benbo, supposidly designed and improved by folks that left Benbo. Thicker material in the legs and it doesn't seem to have the same problem with stripping the center bolt that Benbo has. I have the intermediate size which I guess is equivelant to the Trekker, and yes, it is certainly heavy. I use a neoprene strap to carry it sort of like a rifle sling over the sholder, in a vertical configuration. I use a large Manfroto ball head and a macro rail when doing nature work. I find this combination very flexible.

As others have said, it really comes into its own for nature photography and field work, but for studio work, I find a "conventional" tripod is easier and more convenient.

I've lent my Uniloc to other photographers, they either hate it or love it, there is nothing in between. Getting the thing set up requires some getting used to. The best advice is to try one yourself then make up your own mind.

For a lot of the general nature photography (wild life) as opposed to "macro" (plant) nature photography, I've gone to a monopod, it's a lot lighter and when used properly, it does stabilize the camera somewhat.

LGH

ps: I think both companies (Benbo and Uniloc) are out of business now, although I saw a few new Benbos in Toronto last year.

I have done 3 missions in Afghanistan in the last 18 months. I took both a video camera and a digital still camera on all three missions. Yes, it is cold, you will need winter clothing even in the Intercon hotel, they really don't heat all that well in winter.

Lots of local sites to see, unfortunately, not in too good a shape. If you go into the country, take the mine awareness training, not all of the country is de-mined yet and stay away from war relics.

As was said, in general there is no problem taking pictures with men, in fact, where I was south of Kandahar, the folks would freely pose with you, they are actually quite eager to show off their guns and stuff. Be sure to get prints to them if you have the faciity to have them printed locally, or show them your digital pix.

The Couchies (local tribal migrants) don't seem to mind having their picture taken either.

Women are another problem- in Kabul, it's quite modern, so you won't have a problem if they are part of the crowd scene. In the country, they are a lot more conservative, and I don't think I'd try it.

As far as Kabul shopping is concerned, we used to go out on Chicken street with no problems, (that's where the rugs and souvineers are) but when I was there in September 2005, there was some concern about kidnappings. Our agency is now advising you to go in a group and take a body guard with you and don't do it after dark.

I presume you know enough to be street smart, make sure you have a local guide you can trust, don't take pix of the airport of military installations, watch what restraunts you are in, etc. etc.

As a final word, I never met anyone that wasn't happy to see us, friendly, and open, mind you, I don't think I ever met any of the really bad guys. Take a little care, and have a good time.

LGH

Rae:

Was there two years ago, one DSLR, one Film SLR and one Video camera, and 30 rolls of film plus some lens. Never had a problem, in or out. The only advice I can offer, is to be careful in any large city, same as you would at home, don't walk around and flaunt it, keep one out, and the rest in your backpack/camera bag. One of our group got the handbag stolen when she sat down for a coffee, but that happens anywhere.

People are friendly, lots of times they don't even look for a tip when you take their pictures.

Have a good time.

LGH

I have a 20 Gig portable hard drive with card reader and two 1 Gig cards. The portable hard drive is actually quite robust except when it's actually reading/writing. Take the hard drive to an Internet Cafe once in a while and burn a couple of DVD's as backup, if you want, but I've used it for over a year now, and no problems.

LGH

Angus:

Well, in the heady days of film, there used to be two general types of film, amateur and professional. All film changes it's characteristics slightly as it ages. Amateur film is "designed" to sit on the shelf for long periods of time, it is shipped to the dealer as soon as it is manufactured, with the understanding that it will sit on the dealer's shelf for some time, but supposidly Pro film is shipped at it's published peak. That's why a pro dealer will have a supply in the cooler, to keep it near it's peak longer. Instead of seperating pro and amateur film, some dealers just keep all the film, and their color paper, in a fridge.

Yes, film can be stored for long periods of time if it's frozen with only minor changes to the characteristics. I know some folks who, in the days of slide film, would buy cartons of the same emulsion number, then let them set for 6 months before they hit the freezer. (The rational here is that most amateur films hit their peak about 6-8 months before the expiry date and you don't want to freeze a film before it's reached it's peak). If you have a significant quantity of frozen film, you might want to learn something about "snip" tests.

The latent image does start to de-grade as soon as the film is exposed, and the effect is accelerated by heat. As a previous poster said, it makes more sense to cool down the exposed film until it can be processed. I know when we were shooting 4 X 5 color we shipped the boxes off by courier in cool packs for overnight processing.

As far as Velvia is concerned, I don't think I would be too concerned about it. I've been four weeks in 115 plus F with it and never had a problem. By the way, where are you getting any quantity of Velvia these days?

However, I noticed you statement about X-ray bags in your luggage. X-ray bags in the luggage in the car are a little extreeme, not much X-ray there unless you are above 10,000 feet or so. If you are travelling by air, don't do that now in the days of CTX scanners, they will just boost up the power to see what is inside. Take your film in the carry on and request hand inspection, if you can get it. Lots of other posts about this one.

Of course, the answer to all of this is to go digital.

LGH

I have the Pentax ist DS, it went about a month before I noticed the crop circles in the sky. Not that big a deal to clean the sensor. I now blow the sensor clean every time before a major outing.

As the others have said, I suspect it depends on how often you change your lens and how dusty the environment is. I always turn the camera off and point it down when changing lens.

What I do when travelling is shoot a nice blue sky once a day then look at the frame under the maximum magnification. As someone else said, a white wall would work as well. If there is any hint of a dust speck, then I blow the sensor clean.

I just came back from a trip to Morocco, and I ended up cleaning the sensor about every two days, but again I was changing lens frequently and it was dusty. Like someone else said, do it in the bathroon, it usually has less dust than anywhere else. I don't know if I would go as far as to steam the room down first though. By the way, the Rocket blower is the only one I use, don't use canned air.

Hope this hel

LGH