jrjacobs

I would have to say without a doubt the Yashica Electro 35 cameras.

Incredibly good, fast lens, accurate aperture priority, parallax adjusting rangefinder, flash sync at all shutter speeds. Most of them are still going and can be had for not alot. They are also another "Vietnam era" camera.

I agree - I never use those annoying "NEVER-READY" cases for my TLR's.

There are great, inexpensive padded cases made for today's small video cameras which often are a perfect fit for a TLR. I leave the leather case at home and always use one of these.

Those Seagulls are not built very well and will not last even if you find one with a decent lens.

In the past year, I have purchased an Ikoflex, two Yashica Mats, and a Rolleiflex on the used market. All of them are leaps and bounds better cameras than a Seagull, and each cost less than a Seagull.

Another good option is a Yashica Mat. You should be able to find one in GOOD condition for $150-$200 on auction sites. They are far better cameras than a Seagull and will last you much longer.

Minolta Autocords are another nice option. Rolleicords are a good option also, although they lack alot of features.

Any of these will be leaps and bounds better than a Seagull, will cost you less, and will work better and last longer. Also, if you decide eventually to sell, a used Seagull will not be worth much at all, whereas a Yashicamat, Autocord or Rolleicord will retain the value you initially paid for it.

"And don't forget that the Ikoflex was never as brilliantly designed as the Franke & Heidecke TLRs, and not as well manufactured."

Having owned both, I certainly wouldn't agree on the "not as well manufactured" comment - Ikoflexes are tanks and extremely well-built.

As for brilliant design, it really depends on which models of Ikoflex and Rollei you are talking about. I'd prefer any Tessar Ikoflex over any model Rolleicord. I generally prefer the Rolleiflexes over the Ikoflexes with the exception of the Ikoflex "Favorit" which is an exceptional camera. So it really depends alot on the model.

At any rate, to get back to the original topic: sounds like a problem with the frame counter to me - you might need to open it up or have someone do it for you.

"Hall of Horrors" is a great, easy hike with fantastic photo ops. - you'll see it listed on the map.

Bring lots of water - I was there three weeks ago and it is already getting pretty hot in Joshua Tree NP.

Steve's Camera Repair in Culver City (on Sepulveda)-

They are authorized Mamiya and Hasselblad repair, and just did a bang-up job on my old Ikoflex.

Fast turnaround, and reasonable - can't recommend them enough.

It is pretty simple. You look at the number in the meter, and then dial it into the "exposure computer" (little wheel on the focus dial) which will give you a number of exposure combinations for different aperture/shutter settings.

You can download the Ic manual for free here:

http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/instructionmanuals.html

Hi John-

I recently purchased the same camera, the Ikoflex Favorit. Mine didn't come with a manual either, so I ordered one of the photocopied ones and I should have it tomorrow. Mine seems to have accurate shutter speeds, so I don't think it needs a CLA, but maybe one of the Rolleiflex repair guys can do it for you.

You can make the shutter fire without film in it by opening up the back, simultaneously pressing down on the right side of the upper film tension rod and the counter reset button (on the right side visible when you have the back open). This will allow you to advance the film winder and trip the shutter.

On mine, I can't seem to make it go to the "B" setting - is there a trick to doing that?

Incidentally -

A good read on the Ikoflex can be found here:

http://www.tlr-cameras.com/German/Ikoflex%20Article.html

I own a Rolleiflex 3.5e with the Planar, and an Ikoflex "Favorit" and they are both very nice TLRs - both are nice cameras.

The Ikoflexes have similar build-quality to Rolleiflexes, even if they aren't as beautiful (except for the "Favorit" which is quite pretty). The nice attribute of the Ic and Favorit is that the exposure meter is visible in the viewing screen. Also, the Ikoflexes have much brighter screens than the standard Rolleiflex screens - although you can buy a replacement screen for a Rolleiflex ($$$). The real advantage to the high-end model Rolleiflexes is the Planar lens, which is sharper than the Ikoflex Tessar when wide open, but at f/5 and slower you would be hard-pressed to tell the difference.

I would certainly prefer an Ikoflex 1c over a "T-model" Rolleiflex or a Rolleicord. If a Planar-equipped Rolleiflex is out of your budget, then by all means get the Ikoflex 1c - it is a nice camera with an excellent lens.