markbalcom

Infrared capture--bright treetops in the background.<div></div>

This railroad switch had just been dug out, but another storm blew in.<div></div>

9mm f/8 Rokinon, Olympus e-pl1 infrared conversion.<div></div>

<div></div>

Transitional edge of scrub growth at an old gravel pit<div></div>

<div></div>

Out in the open, walking about Roman ruins, I shot this picture

looking up at the ceiling of an arch.<div></div>

<div></div>

One of my favorite tiny wildflowers.<div></div>

Heading out the door: hands full while walking the dogs, running an

errand, going to work, heading to class...? Photos taken with anything

light and small: smartphones, point and shoot digital cameras, small

film cameras Holga/Diana/Lomo, etc.<div></div>

<p>I have also been pleased with negatives from panf+ at 100 in Diafine.</p>

<p>Have you visited inkjet film producer Pictorico.com? Click on their resources tab and they have some instructional material and many ICC profiles for (higher priced models) Epson printers and a few for other brand printers.<br>

I remember reading that their OHP transparency film was uv transparent and suitable for alternative printing processes. I would like to construct a light box and experiment with injet transparency film negatives myself sometime. I hope you find methods to print superior negatives again and post results here.</p>

<p>I shot a test roll when I got my Holga to see how fast or slow mine was as I heard they can vary from camera to camera. I use 100 ASA film in bright sunlight (or 400 ASA with an orange filter in front of the lens) and 400 for bright overcast. I develop in hc 110 at 68 degrees F, but add one minute to my normal development time as negatives can be a little flat otherwise. So normal or slightly less development might be the way to go for (contrasty) snow scenes. Also, shadows in snow are filled with blue skylight; orange or red filters may provide more texture and detail in snow covered surfaces.</p>

<p>I put a roll of Efke R25 in my camera and shot four or five frames. A few weeks later (No, I had not put the box end in the film indicator frame.) I finished the roll thinking it was Tri X that I was pushing for development in Diafine. I'll let you imagine my posting titled, "Maximum Black."</p>

<p>Paul, I have purchased used items from Adorama over several years usually for quite reasonable prices and been satisfied with the products except on perhaps two occasions.<br>

One time I decided to keep the item at a reduced price; they mailed a check for the difference immediately. The second time they sent a prepaid return shipping label for an incorrect item and sent the correct item right out. On both occasions they were very responsive to either the telephone or email.<br>

I hope you'll post your results once all is settled and you have the camera you want. Good luck!</p>

<div></div>

<div></div>

<p>Sure, it's a toy camera. Toy pianos have been used occasionally in classical, jazz, and popular music for decades. I hope photography will survive a little fun as well. </p>

Selenium toned silver emulsion print. Ilford Pan F+.<div></div>

Moe Lewis-Wolf, Crazed Dog Studio:

Handbuilt sculptural ceramic.<div></div>

Here's the first image from a scan of the negative. Fujifilm Acros 100, EI 100, developed in HC-110 Dil D (1+9) for 6.75 minutes with reduced agitation (four agitations over the 6.75 minutes.)<div></div>

Here's the first image from a scan of the negative. Fujifilm Acros 100, EI 100, developed in HC-110 Dil D (1+9) for 6.75 minutes with reduced agitation (four agitations over the 6.75 minutes.)

When Woody Allen made his film "Zelig" he engineered it to look like a rediscovered lost documentary from an decades earlier. Both film and digital are wonderful ways to craft our art. We have today the access to nineteenth, twentieth, and twenty-first century photographic processes so go ahead, make platinum or albumen prints, pigment on paper, and digital media images, anything old or new. And relish the capability to do it all.

Solarized print, 2 minutes selenium toning (1:9 dilution, I think), followed

by toning in Berg Brown/Copper until I liked the effect.<div></div>

LM, I never know whether through gritty effort to control the snark, or to release him and reward him with praise and a biscuit! Alas, civility usually wins out.

 

Thanks for the outside perspective. It has been a good discovery to explore the site feedback forum. I have found myself more than once wondering about what proper site conduct might be in a little more detail than is outlined in the other forums and in the galleries.

 

It's good to know that many do take the care to look for and post details with photos. I think I generally give some details with the photos that I post; I'll have to see how close to 100% of the time I actually do. Others details certainly inform my thoughts about equipment, process, and print.