geddert

I don't wear glasses and have very good vision, and can tell you from

my experience with a Hexar RF (very similar magnification to the .58)

and a Leica .72 that a .58 is certainly WAY better for a 28mm lens,

much better for a 35mm lens and that for a 50 is is probably tied

with the .72 - different but tied in my opinion... - i personally

would like the .58 for my 50 cron, but expect to get a 75lux, and

wanted to keep one body, so the .72 made more sense for me.

i almost forgot, but i have also had a one night stand with a Hexar

RF... although it had a lot of tricks and was very flexible it

certainly wasn't a leica.

over the past 3 years i have been a camera whore. I have been with

Nikon, then Canon, then sold Canon, Then leica M, then Canon and now

back to Leica M (with a bit of Canon left over)... i estimate that i

have lost $4000 in the whole process... and have probably contracted

some camera VD disease. I have put aside my childish ways however and

have a concrete commitment to keeping my leica M gear for life, sure

i will flirt with other systems over time, but in the end i will

spend the important times with the Leica M. All i can say from this

experience is that you should borrow gear from a friend for 3 months

(possibly by letting them borrow your gear in exchange) in order to

see if you are compatible with a certain body or set of lenses.

<a href="http://www.magnumphotos.com/email/capascw/CAR1.html%

20">Here</a> is the photo in question.

Anam, you should pick up the latest copy of National Geographic (or

maybe it was the last one before that), anyways, it has an article on

Diamonds, and it looks like you can get man made diamonds that look

and feel the same as real diamonds unless looked at through

ultraviolet lights (it acatully is compressed carbon with the same

density of real diamonds). You should be able to get a real "man

made" diamond for half the price of a real "million year earth made"

diamond. Only true specialists can tell the difference (those trained

by deBeers to keep deBeers as the monopoly going) since they are in

fact the same chemicals and density. Also, the whole "a girl gets a

big diamond engagement ring" is something entirely created by the

diamond industry to boost sales. 100 years ago this was the exception

and not the norm.

<p>

Be a rebel and get her a lens instead =)

Provia 400F slide film can be pushed to 1600 quite well - this is

pushed two stops (I like the results a lot for a 1600 speed film)...

in my opinion this is the best color film above 400, I think it has

much less grain then others at these speeds. I digitize my pictures,

so i am trying to only shoot color, and then make them B&W in

photoshop, thus i would also recommend Provia 400f for B&W if you

don't want grain (i sometimes use true B&W film because i want grain).

that should be post a link to an image, not post an image, to post an

image inline you write: <img src="__link__to_image__">

<p>

most people will want to center that image and add a small caption,

so then you would write: <center><img

src="__link__to_image__"><p>Caption Text</center>

For those of you that want to know how to post an image, this is what

you need to do:

<ul>

<a

href="_____link_to_image_with_no_spaces_or_quotations____">__clicka

ble__words__link__</a>

</ul>

The link to image, is most likely the URL you have been using in the

past... this is an example link for Kristians, first image at this on

this thread:

<ul>

<a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?

photo_id=652573&size=lg">Photo 1: Erlina</a>

</ul>

This would produce a link like this:

<ul>

<a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?

photo_id=652573&size=lg">Photo 1: Erlina</a>

</ul>

Here are clickable links for the others that have posted.

<ul>

<li>Kristian:

<a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?

photo_id=652573&size=lg">1</a>,

<a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?

photo_id=542809&size=lg">2</a>,

<a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?

photo_id=545137&size=lg">3</a>

<p>

<li>Maestro:

<a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?

photo_id=56838&size=lg">1</a>,

<a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?

photo_id=69179&size=lg">2</a>,

<a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/photo?

photo_id=69154&size=lg">3</a>

<p>

<li>Doug:

<a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/133606">1</a>,

<a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/193824">2</a>

</ul>

Well, I forgot about the <i>It is preferred if you create a link to

the picture, rather than posting it on the page. This will allow the

page to load faster</i>... oh, well, nothing i can do about it now. I

keep on forgetting that people still use regular dial up modems...

I like these all of which were shot with a M6 and 50cron. They are

not necessarily my best technically or artistically, but they are

pictures of people I love.

<center>

<img src="http://www.photo.net/photodb/image-display?

photo_id=421348&size=lg">

<p><i>Having Fun in the Tub</i>

<p>

<img src="http://www.photo.net/photodb/image-display?

photo_id=654717&size=lg">

<p><i>Raphael waiting</i>

<p>

<img src="http://www.photo.net/photodb/image-display?

photo_id=654723&size=lg">

<p><i>Dominick 2001 Christmas Eve</i>

<p>

</center>

you can also preset focus with the GR1 (it is called snap mode) so

that it doesn't have the lag between depressing the button and firing

a frame. I agree that the Hexar is probably a better camera... but is

isn't nearly as small as the GR1, which is about the same size as a

wallet or a casette tape box - it will easily fit in a shirt pocket.

If you want a ture backup that can replace a M6 get the Hexar if you

want something tiny to carry with you at all times the GR1 wins.

if you use a pro slr as well with 77mm filters (as many people here

do), you can get a step up ring from 39-77 and 46-77 for $10 a piece

and then cut a hole in the side of the step up ring so you can see

the effect through the step up ring... i haven't wanted to use a

polarizer on my M6 yet (I use it almost exclusively indoors), but i

have thought about it, and if i wanted to use a polarizer on my M

this is what i would do since i already own a 77mm polarizer.

darn it that should be length, not lenght... i guess i am quicker on

the draw with with the H.

i like my cron a lot, but frequently wish i had the lux... i would

also recommend buying a different focal lenght. If you are going to

have two lenses of the same focal lenght with Leica M's the only two

that make sense to me are the 50noct and 50cron, in regards to all

other focal lenghts i think it wouldn't make sense to double up

(except maybe thin tele-elmarit adn 90APO... but with that combo i

think a TE with a 75lux would make more sense).

does this store in Sydney have a website? or a phone number? I live

in the States, but might want to have them ship me one. I have been

eyeing these bags for a while.

you may have looked here already, but you can get the exact sizes at

their website: <a

href="http://www.billingham.co.uk/">http://www.billingham.co.uk/</a>

I don't think there would be enough of a reason to switch... i bought

a TTL because of the new shutter speed dial, the direction may be the

opposite, but now it follows the directions of the arrows. The fact

that is a bigger is a big help. it is incredibly easy to use my index

finger and roll over the shutter button to adjust speeds because it

comes almost all the way to the front of the body... this in my

opinion is a definite improvement. In my mind this improvement is

certainly not big enough to justify the switch from a classic to it

though.

Foveon sure has a great marketing department, this the um-teenth time

i have heard this request here or at photo.net... i haven't seen

people blindly accept somebody's technology purely based on marketing

in a while... it's nice to know people are as gullible as ever. The

Foveon may well be great, but until it can be tested independently

and they can actually produce large quantities of the item it remains

marketing sci-fi.

I have had good experiences with Delta International in the past...

but with leica, unlike other brands the passport warranty is a

significant benefit to buying regular leica USA improted items.

Just to name a few

<ul>

<li><a href="http://greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?

msg_id=007bIK">http://greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?

msg_id=007bIK</a>

<li><a href="http://greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?

msg_id=007CQr">http://greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?

msg_id=007CQr</a>

<li><a href="http://greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?

msg_id=005rTY">http://greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?

msg_id=005rTY</a>

<li><a href="http://greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?

msg_id=004lLc">http://greenspun.com/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?

msg_id=004lLc</a>

</ul>

Wear a large rain hat with a brim large enough to cover the camera

from above (I know they look funny - but its the price you pay), and

wear a large jacket/trench coat that you can quicly and easily stuff

the camera under while not up at your eye.

I approve of about 1 shot in 10-36 frame rolls (this is a miesly

0.27% success rate). My friends and family think about half of the

shots I take are keepers, and many of them want prints from that

half. So the number depends on who you ask.

i often find that i don't like "nice" people... the often do not seem

genuine... I may think differently if i came from the midwest though.