maarten_van_viegen
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Posts posted by maarten_van_viegen
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i've seen the fuji natura, but it's too wide angle. that's also the reason i'm no longer
interested in the ricoh gr-1.
The fixed focus dial on the contax t2 just looks great.
now if it could only focus a little closer.
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I'm looking for a second hand compact camera with a quality lens,
for shooting at party's.
i've been using an olympus mjuII (stylus epic) for a while but most shots have the focus
in the wrong place.
So now i'm looking for something new, however on examening pictures of above mentioned
compact camera's i've got a new question.
the thing i loved about the olympus was that i could just have it in my front jeans pocket, get it out with
one hand, open it and shoot. really fast.
but on the pictures i see of the contax t2/ricog gr-1 it almost seems as if the camera's need to be kept
in the pouch, get it out press the on/off button to start.
the on/off button just looks to easy to switch on while it's in my pocket by accident. probably damaging
the lens that will come out, but has no room to go out all the way.
so for users of them, are they possible to keep without pouch in a jeanspocket. or will on/off switch be
pressed by accident easy?
and when switching these camera's on, how long does it take for the lens to come out. really fast??
thanks
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do you wind the film up till nr1 appeares on the counter before
you start shooting?
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how can i use the self timer on the C lens?
this morning i tried a shot on polaroid film,
but it came out black.
so i put it on self timer and took a shot with the back removed.
when pressing the button, the curtain opens, but closes right away on
releasing the button. the timer is now still buzzing to open the leaf
shutter. the shutter opens when the curtains are closed, so no exposure.
Is there something else i should do?
thanks,
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how about setting up a studio inside a homeless shelter. and shoot them there instead of
at your studio.
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is it the seal replacement you can do yourself?
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this mornig i found a piece of plastic on my a12 back in front of the
darkslide.
seems like it came from between the metal.
on one side it looks matte on the other shiny like film.
i can push it back in between the metal if i want.
should i?
it was bought 4 years ago second hand from a hasselblad dealer/service
center. could he have put it there for a reason?
photos of it, see: http://www.photo.net/photo/3825011
thanks
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hey,
How can you check if a filter is in place on the hasselblad 30mm fish
eye? the information i could find mentioned it's located at the back
of the front element, so is there a way to "open" the lens? if so, how?
thanks
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i remember that you used to be able to attach an image to a question!!
the image is now in my user gallery.
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since last year i've always noticed a strange thing when using ilford
(120) films (delta 100/400/3200 and panF)in my a12 back.
the image is not in the middle of the film but always more to the
ilforn name side.
the problem is that sometimes they touch.
from this example the first image on the roll was nicely centered but
the 9th photo was touching ilford's name.
never have this problem with kodak or fuji films!! although the image
is not perfectly centered either.
has anybody else experienced this?
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now i'm curious which company paid $2000 for this photo!
not a skatboardcompany i'm guessing.
m
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there's one for sale second hand, and would be interested to know if it's a good idea to invest into this system. and to hear people's opinions about it. thanks
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Any experiences with this system?
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kowasa is a pretty expensive bookstore i think.
I've always been amazed by VIPS on rambla catalunya (15 meters up from placa catalunya).
it's an almost 24/7 supermarket/restaurant/bookstore.
always found nice photobooks for cheap there.
for proffesional development DUPS on gran via 6?? is good. for normal snapshots FNAC at placa catalunya is really good.
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another question about the FLE.
When you use hyperfocul focussing, do you set it to the distance of the main subject, or to the distance the distance scale indicates?
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yep, another DUPS recommendation
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he's not the photographer.
you asked a question about this campaign before.
but the tread suddenly disappeared.
it's an old campaign.
here's the cover of the catalog
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ok,
thanks for the answers,
so i can conclude that the wlf gives me more view on the groundglass.
that´s all i needed to know.
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hey,
I use a hasselblad with the wlf.
But when using the wlf I find you really have to bend over to look
at the bottom part of the image (1-2mm is blocked by the wlf system).
Is this the same when using a prism finder? or will this give me a
better view?
btw. is the groundglass showing a 100% image?
thanks,
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hey,
has anyone who used this flash also tested if the displayed f/stop
and the meter/feet are correctly?
I came to the conclusion it is 1 stop off.
so at 100 iso at 1,2 meter it gave me F8 instead op the displayed
F11. and also at the other distances it was always a stop off.
m
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i wouldn't go for cross processing as darker skin tones can get a green cast. would go for 100vs (now replaced by G or GX or something).
in most hip hop videos its bright colored clothing. so if your subject wears that. maybe a darker background, ot just shoot at night,or under expose the background so they stand out even more. maybe even a fish-eye lens. and get some good backlighting.
if you shoot at night outside, wet the pavement so it'll shine even more. like in that nelly vid.
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Hey Richard,
I don't know the Clark plastics your talking about.
But after a long search for a good 6x6 slide mount, i'm now using
the Diacover light system. (well they just came in, so i'm not actually using them already)
It's a good system for storage, handling, presentation.
but also really good if you're sending your slides to magazines.
take a look at www.diacover.de
i could not find any reviews of their system anywhere.
if you have follow up questions, email me.
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i believe that with a kiev you only have 1/30th flash sync.
so only usuable for night and indoor skateboard shots.
you've probably seen these sites already, but they have some good
hasselblad with fish-eye images on them, in case you havn't seen them.
www.atibaphoto.com (book 2)
www.scottpommier.com
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Hey,
i'm still looking for the best way to mount / archive my 6x6 slides.
the way i would prefer would be 6x6 mounts inside a journal24 map.
my local store only sells one brand of 6x6 mounts Gepe.
but there is a lot of room for the slide to move inside these.
so when i was in another town i bought AP mounts. but the same
problem.
so now i've looked at the diacover light system, and it looks very
good. this seems like a good way to store the slides and submit them
to mags.
the only thing i noticed when replacing their picturecarton with a
real slide, is that. they used an image area of 60x60mm and then the
border.but my hasselblad images are 56x56mm so the slide was too
short to fit. it would fit if i rotated it 90 degrees.
so now i have 3 questions:
- is there a good glasless slidemount with no room for play.
- i wondered are all 6x6 systems 56x56, or are some 60x60mm
- anyone using the diacover light system? do you like it, do you seal
the plastic?
www.diacover.de
www.journal24.de
thanks,
maarten
contax T2 question
in Leica and Rangefinders
Posted
I post my question in the leica forum as a search for contax t2 on photo net results in a lot of hits in the
leica forum.
I'm just wondering how people use the manual focus.
do you let yourself be guided by the <front mis focus> <correct focus> <rear mis focus> display
symbols in the viewfinder, or do you just turn the manual focus wheel to the distance that seems
correct to you? and ignore a mis focus symbol in the viewfinder.
especially between 07-1,5m
i get sometimes misfocussed images, sometimes i feel i should have adjusted for the correct focus
symbol to light up, other times the other way around.
so how do you contax t2 users focus for subjects close by.
thanks,
maarten