geoff_foale

Somehow I had missed this suggestion, thanks for the reminder.

 

Just over a year ago the UK BBC Radio 4 PM programme had a similar idea. They asked listeners to photograph exactly what they were looking at 5pm when the programme started. They expected to get around a couple of hundred photos but actually received over 4,000 so had to take on extra staff to put all the images onto their website.

 

As such, I wonder if a few basic rules might help here. Maybe something about size of images and slightly narrowing down the scope; like the PM programme did.

 

Anyway, I did send in an image to the BBC so, if I remember, I will give it a go here as well.

I don't really like AI Servo because I'm never quite sure if it has focused correctly or not, but most times it does produce the goods when shooting moving images. Personally, I usually prefer the single centre autofocus point as I know that it is focusing on the intended object not another bird or something in the background. You are less likely to end up with only part of a bird on the image edge; but, I do totally miss a few shots this way.

I was in the same position as you, Michael. After looking around at prices, here in the UK, I came to a different conclusion from everybody who as responded so far. If, like me, you like the feel of your 10D, size, balance, ruggedness, easy to read dials, etc, then get a 40D instead. If you want a smaller lighter camera then go for the 450D.

 

If you find a deal with the Canon cashback offer the price difference is very little. I've just ordered a 40D from a reputable supplier, for GBP 520.00 and I understand that similar prices apply in other countries. This is actually cheaper then the 30D from some outlets.

 

If you can, go to a retail outlet where you can compare the two side by side and decide which suits you best. Then shop around for the best deal.

Yes Kent, IS does make a big difference with the bigger zooms. As others have said, the 28-135 IS is a good value average quality useful lens. I don't use the 28 end that much and rarely wish for anything smaller; but it all depends on what you intend to shoot.

 

People will tell you to use your feet instead of a zoom but in my case that would usually involve a diving suit or a parachute, so zooms are essential for me. But primes are good value excellent lenses that suit some people.

 

My most used lens is the 70-300 IS, chiefly in the 200-300 range and IS is essential if you are handholding.

 

It seems to me that you will have to do some careful thinking about exactly what you want to photograph. The 28-135 would complement a 10-22 but there are better, although more expensive, alternatives to cover this approx range. If you go for a bigger zoom, say 70-200/300 you will have a gap at the short end, unless you are prepared to get something heavy and expensive like a 28-300 or a short end lens with a bigger range than 10-22. Do you want to carry around and keep changing a variety of lenses? I know that I prefer to travel light, as a one lens guy.

 

Above all else, I would say get what you really need even if you have to wait a while and save up for it; a temporary stop gap purchase works out more expensive in the long run.

Like Adrian, I have also been keeping an eye on UK prices and find some amazing variation in prices. You actually can pay around GBP 100 more for a 30D than the best price for a 40D with cashback. And, believe it or not, Jessops are as competitive as anyone! Perhaps the penny has finally dropped with them.

 

Some people like the lighter feel of the 450D; but I am currently using a 10D and like the ruggedness and easy to read dials (without having to put my glasses on). So the 40D at around GBP 520 inc. cashback, is starting to look very attractive. I may well get tempted very soon.

 

According to Robert's price, that is cheaper than in the US. 'I do not believe it'!

From my experience, don't expect a massive increase in image magnification; but it will help by getting closer to your subject without adding extra layers of glass. You will not be able to focus at infinity, but that probably won't matter. While autofocus will work with Canon tubes they recommend manual focus. In reality I definitely do get a much sharper manual focus; but that is often the case with macro photography.

Give us the full information, camera, lens and full EXIF details and somebody will tell you what you are doing wrong. A sample photo would also be helpful.

 

At a guess I would suspect your shutter speed is too low.

It depends on exactly what you want to do, but you probably will get most benefit with the 70-200 as the other lenses already close focus, as you said.

 

I haven't used the Kenko tubes but use a Canon tube on my Canon 70-300 (no real benefit on smaller lenses like my 28-135). Not as good as a proper macro lens but if you just want bigger close up shots, ie insects where you are looking at a focusing distance around 3 to 4 ft. it will help. Even with proper Canon equipment they recommend manual focus, although autofocus will work with Canon tubes. I agree, when using autofocus I was disappointed with the results but get sharp results with manual focusing upto around 20 ft.

On the minus side; when you are working with multiple layers and adjustment layers for different purposes especially with gradient masks etc it can get a bit confusing.

 

On the plus side; you have a second chance to think again. A simple example is when you adjust curves then add a bit of saturation. Now the curves setting needs another tweak. So easy with adjustment layers, otherwise you end up 'chasing your own tail'.

Different; not for me but I suppose they have as much right to be photographed as anybody else. And they are obviously good value.

I had exactly the same thing with the 10D which I bought on e bay. The seller had purchased it secondhand then got rid of it quick thinking it was faulty; and he seemed a bit peeved when I phoned to tell him what the problem was.

Several friends have seen photos that I have taken with my Canon 10D and 70-300 lens and decided to give it a go. But, despite me telling them that I am working with the bottom end of the decent quality market they have bought basic point & shoot cameras for around GBP 100. After a few attempts they have given up and their cameras remain unused now.

 

Only one of them stuck at it and eventually upgraded to one of the cheaper DSLR models. He is just starting to move away from the auto settings and produce some good work with it.

Stick with the 40D Jeff, you won't regret it in the long run. For now, you will have to decide which is most important to you, people or nature shots. If you want to take indoor photos of people get the 17-85, or better if you can afford it.

 

Then, sometime in the future, when you have saved up a bit of cash get another good lens for nature/sports. But you will have to choose carefully and may require 2 extra lenses. I find the 70-300 IS is a reasonably priced good all rounder but can be a bit slow for some sports and short for some nature work. But it would complement a 17-85 nicely.

 

I use the 28-135 IS and it suits me for general use and landscape but 28mm can be a bit big and slow for indoor work unless you just want to photograph head and shoulders portraits and use flash; or you are in big rooms. It isn't a good lens for sports or nature, except that the close focusing distance can work with flowers.

I have printed 6mp photos for sale at 12 x 18 ins but it must be a good quality original and not all images will resize well. But, usually, people will look at these larger prints from further away so you can sometimes get away with a tiny bit of reduced sharpness. For general use I like to stay around 12 x 8.

 

If you are resizing upwards set the quality control to Bicubic Interpolation (or maximum quality). If you are increasing by more than 50% do it in 2 or more stages not one big jump. After resizing you may need a litle extra Unsharp Mask, but don't overdo it.

 

If a considerable increase is required and I am doing my own printing I would sooner reduce the resolution than overdo the resize; but not less than 200ppi. It also depends on the type of image and grade of paper.

In the UK we have Kodak Ultima Picture Paper cat 824 2448. Not sure what it is called in the rest of the world. 270 gsm glossy finish. It gives a good print but I find it can be a bit tricky to get colours right as it tends to be a touch high in the reds and takes a long time to dry; but it is claimed to last at least 100 years.

 

I did sometimes have trouble printing this paper with my Epson R800 as the last bit often 'kicked' upwards and left a roller line on the wet ink. The work around was to partly close up the catcher tray so that prints dropped cleanly away from the printer onto the work surface instead of pushing along the catcher tray which seemed to add a bit too much friction. Works fine with my current Canon 9000.

For what this is worth; I like the 'chunkiness' and balance of the 10D so my next camera will be a 40D (when I can afford it).

While I can't see the difference, Canon do state that their tubes should be mounted firstly onto the lens and then the lens plus tube onto the body. Disassembly is the reverse. Kenko is probably the same. Perhaps some kind person will give us the reason why.

Thanks for the information. I have passed it on to those in the wildlife site who started the question.

Just a suggestion, and take this with a large pinch of salt as I don't have CS3, but could this be a conversion from Adobe RGB to standard RGB problem? What is the original colour setting and what is the Save for Web version? RAW to JPEG is bound to produce slightly different results as JPEG compression looses some detail; that is the purpose of shooting RAW. I do some readjustment after conversion to JPEG. And web photos generally work best in RGB not Adobe RGB.

 

Also, what JPEG compression are you using? Reducing file size is bound to produce slightly a lower quality image.

 

If I am just stating the obvious here, sorry.

If you look back through the recent archives you will find several questions and a lot of answers about this printer and the Epson alternatives, although some of them do have obscure titles. For now, I would just say that I am satisified with mine (so far) but I find that the Auto setting does tend to oversaturate colours. Printing with Windows ICM setting or specific paper profiles is a lot better; also it has manual colour correction adjustments. Not sure how this would work with a Mac.

 

Like all printers, different paper produces slightly different results. I find Canon Photo Paper Pro works well but Kodak paper is decidely high in red; but I found the same with my Epson R800.

 

Don't fully understand the second part of your question. Are you intending to print directly from your camera to the printer? I use a Canon 10D and usually give my images a slight tweak with software before printing but the camera to monitor to printer colours seem fairly good.

 

Here, the UK, I wouldn't use any of my local processors for prints as it was those 'enhanced' prints that originally drove me to digital cameras and self printing. I think the situation is a lot better in the US.

Once, I did try combining a Canon 1.4x with an 12mm extension tube so as to fit the 70-300 lens. It sort of worked, with manual focus but I found a very shallow depth of field and just using the extension tube then cropping and resizing produced sharper results.

 

Thought this converter would probably be something similar. It just sounded too good to be true.

On a UK wildlife site that I use, they are discussing Canon EF Life Size

Converters which apparently are produced specifically for a macro lens, I think

it is a 50mm. Alegedly, they can be used on all EF lenses including those which

won't take the standard Canon Converters and give better results.

 

The story is that they are widely used in the US. I haven't heard of them

previously; so is there any truth in this or is it just another photographers

tale.

 

ps. I saw one on UK ebay yesterday for GBP 48.00

Monopods make a big difference with non IS lenses, particularly at low shutter speeds but with IS and with smaller lenses it won't make that much difference especially if you are good at steady handholding. It becomes more noticeable with longer zooms, like the 70-300 or bigger, particularly when taking close ups.

 

I normally keep IS on when using a monopod or lightweight tripod and the 28-135 or 70-300. I find that a cheap lightweight tripod isn't a lot heavier or larger than a monopod but is much more versitile.

 

However, if you are still unhappy with the results from your monopod maybe the problem lies elsewhere. Are you sure that your lens is focusing correctly? Check manual and auto focus; the 28-135 can be a bit soft in some circumstances and I always apply a little unsharp mask. Also, are you using the best lens settings? What subjects? If you are taking distant landscapes and the air isn't totally clear you won't get perfect results whatever you do.

It certainly pays to shop around in the UK and, as others have mentioned, some outlets will be cheap for Sigma but expensive for Canon; or the other way around. Cheap for lenses but dear for cameras, etc.

 

I have just been looking around and thinking about getting a good value Canon 30D body. Thought I might get a bargain now that the 40D is getting popular. The result so far: Best prices for new 30D ranged between GBP 488 from camera box to 650 from Amazon. But I can get a new 40D for 600 (inc. Canon cashback) from AJ Purdy or ABC digital cameras. And I am getting tempted!

 

We don't know which model Wisdom is looking for, so the simple answer is, without any super large photographic companies here, just search out today's best buys from as wide a range of suppliers as possible.

Reliable and cheap in the UK? That's a tough one. I mostly use www.abc-digital-cameras.co.uk who are in Burgess Hill, Sussex. I have heard that Bristol Cameras are good but haven't used them myself.

 

It would appear that UK pounds and US dollars are about equal when it comes to purchasing camera equipment so don't expect a bargain anywhere here.