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mike simons

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Posts posted by mike simons

  1. Thanks for the tips, Bob --- the Coffee Protocols are in full effect here at the studio. Guess I hadn't known, too, that readers have an effect on speed; thought their impact on transfer was minimal/passive, i.e., not part of the speed equation.

     

    Thanks for all you do 'round here - I've found your posts to be informative, well-balanced, kind, and gracious. Much appreciated!

     

    -Mike

  2. Hoping someone can find/has a better answer than I do...

     

    My computer's USB 2.0 equipped. I feel like the transfer times I'm getting off

    of my lexar card reader and Lexar Pro 133x 2.0GB are slower than they should

    be.... Can anyone point me to some sort of test/diagnostic to run to see if, in

    fact, my transfers are at normal USB 1.0 or 1.1 speeds? I'm hitting the 4-5

    minute mark for 75%+ full cards (1.5+ GB).... Or, do I just need to be more

    patient?

     

    Any help/advice is most welcomed!

     

    -Mike

  3. Hi, folks -

     

    I shoot on a 5D and ran into a guy in TX last weekend who had an older-looking

    Zenitar ___mm fisheye that had been screwmounted; he had the adapter for EOS

    bodies, etc., etc.... Shot a friend's wedding with it (reception shots, etc).

     

    A look around a 'particular auction site' shows multiple models that are "new

    in box," which makes me think this isn't the 80's-era model he was shooting

    on.... Anyone out there able to point me in the/a right direction toward which

    Zenitar he might've had, and what's more, where to pick one up these days?

    Said it was at or below $100 when he got it (used, I assume).

     

    Thanks in advance -

     

    -Mike

  4. Todd -

     

    I believe (I think I know, har har) that the original file names can be (slash "maybe are") saved in each files EXIF data, even as it gets renamed. Now, I'm not sure if I've read that the EXIF is preserved if you ASK it to preserve, or if it's always there, ghosted....

     

    However, assuming "the best," I believe the info is in your EXIF data --- i.e., if IMG_0048.cr2 was renamed to wedding01.jpg and wedding01.jpg still KNOWS that it came from _0048.cr2......

     

     

    Ok, ok.... Just went into Adobe Bridge and started up the Batch Rename function, seeing the "Preserve Original Filename in XMP metadata" as an option. I might take back what I said above, and point you to that function --- such that if the option (preserve) was engaged, then you're fine.... but if you didn't use it, you might be in the lurch....

     

    The only other thing I can think of is using the Batch Renamer in *reverse*, specifying the filename structure(s) that'll result in the files being renamed to their original set. If using Canon, then reset to IMG_ and a 4-digit serial option, beginning with the first number of your first (still-numbered) .xml file --- that'd sync everything back up - get me?

     

    -Mike

  5. Marcos -

     

    As I've been guilty of many times on these forums, I don't know if you're giving us enough information to start with.... What size and type of image are you starting with? What process are you using within Photoshop (and which version of Photoshop)? Manual resizing, or the automated web galleries via the File menu? What color space are your images in? What output variables are you choosing (resolution, quality, size)? I believe I'm correct in saying that if you're in CS2, there's nothing in CS3 that'll have a significant improvement for you, function-wise. What else can you tell us?

     

    I'll leave it to someone else to chime in on other software - I only use CS2; it's for client proofing.

  6. Sam -

     

    I'm headed there and haven't received said workbook in my registration packet. (Likely getting it in Boston; saving shipping fees.) Haven't seen reference to purchasing it at the sites or in the materials I've received so far - I'll keep an eye out and let you know if I hear anything....

     

    Hitting the wedding workshop in the pre-conf. day on Tues --- excited for it, as this is my first season shooting weddings (which likely makes plenty of people here cringe, but I'm thrilled to get the start - need to start somewhere!)

     

    Anyone else out there going to PWorld? Want to hoist a drink or two?

     

    -mcs

  7. Anyone able to give me a heads-up of a place where they've run 150+ 8x10s at a

    good price --- looking to print up a series of 3 headshots for a client headed

    out to auditions.... 3 x 50 copies each, all 8x10s, matte. Would appreciate

    hearing about print shops that've worked well for you. Thanks in advance for

    any tips.

     

    -Mike

  8. Question for the forum - thanks in advance for replies, advice, etc.

     

     

    I have two friends who have been asked to shoot a local police chief's

    retirement party at a local museum in a few weeks. Here are specifics as we

    know them:

     

    *2 shooters

     

    *3-4 hours of coverage

     

    *Guest candids & table shots - likely 130+ guests

     

    *Coverage of speakers in a "roast"-style format, etc.,

     

    *Few prints, but likely development of a computer-ready slideshow bundled on a

    DVD with all of the high-res files color-corrected, etc...

     

     

    We're looking for general feedback on how to price a gig like this... Flat

    rate, hourly, etc...

     

    This is an area where, admittedly, they don't have a ton of experience, but

    their shooting and style is excellent.

     

    Thanks again - hope to hear from some folks who've shot gigs like this --

     

    -Mike

  9. Maggie -

     

    Goto my community page (click on my name here) and get my email address. I'd be happy to share prom bits & pieces with you; I've shot them over the last five years and have no problem talking about what's worked for me and my business partner. We shoot at a school of 1,000 kids, often getting 120+ orders on prom night. Too, I can share some thumbs of past backdrops we've used.

     

    -Mike

  10. Saw a photog at a friend's wedding with (as near as I can remember) a tri-fold

    wallet, velcro closure, that could handle 12+ CF cards... cordura, "backpack"

    material, in black. Had a belt loop, too...

     

    Anyone out there able to point me toward a comparable 12+ card organizer for

    CF? Found some cheapies at Case Logic and other places; haven't been able to

    hit the right Google search string to pull down a reasonable option for me.

     

    TIA for suggestions -

     

    -Mike

  11. Why is it 90 deg. off-axis? Is there any inherent advantage, rather than building/mounting it such that it can mount front-to-front with a speedlite or sb800 and let the photog do the tweaking/turning/adjustment/etc? By constructing it to mount at a 90 deg. rotation, doesn't that limit us....? Anyone else see what I"m saying, or am I crazy?

     

    -mcs

  12. Dave -

     

    Thank you - that sounds like it's "IT."

     

    I may have a profound misunderstanding of "things," but how/why would a difference between f/16 and f/11 account for heavy shading/lighting on only *one* side of a frame? There's nothing I know about aperture that I can reconcile with the shadow/banding on the pictures as shot. Granted, f/11 would brighten things overall, but that simply can't be what's responsible for the banding....... right?

     

    Am I wrong in saying that any change to aperture would affect the *entire* picture, *every* time?

     

    -Mike

  13. Folks -

     

    Thanks in advance for your help/pity/advice/tips/reminders...

    <p>

    I shot a colleague and his lovely wife yesterday up in my home studio, and had

    a problem re-occur that I hadn't seen in awhile, and I'm looking for help to

    diagnose it. I'll try to give all the stats up front, rather than forgetting

    some critical piece of data like I normally do when I post here...

    <p>

    5D body, 85mm 1.8, 1/200th, f/16, 400iso; both shots.

    <p?

    3-light setup, high-key; 2 @ 300ws on backdrop, cross-lit. 1 main light for

    subjects; 175ws through 5ft. octodome. Shot on sync cord.

    <p>

    The problem, as I see it, is a dark banding at the right of the first shot and

    bottom of the second. That it moves relative to orientation of camera says to

    me it's not my lighting, but - likely - my shutter (I've seen questions of this

    sort before posted, where the shooter is "seeing" the shutter/blades because

    the speed/sync is off). Problem being, I thought I had the sync speed (1/200

    for the 5D) all set, etc., etc. - thus, I hope someone out on the boards has a

    helpful hint or "DUH" comment for me that can help me finish these shots off.

    Shooting JTL monolights; is there a variable on that end that I'm missing? <p>

    I'm pleased, overall, and it was a helluva lot of fun to do the shoot.

    <p>

    Unedited pics, other than to resize for posting.

    <p>

    <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/5676775"> Picture 1 </a>

    <p>

    <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/5676771"> Picture 2 </a>

     

    Many thanks for those of you who reply.

    -Mike

  14. Hi, gang - Good Saturday afternoon to you all. <P>

     

    Question for digital shooters among us -<P>

     

    Adorama's got a sweet rebate on Kingston cards right now, but they're 45x

    write speed. I'm in the market for 12-20 GB of new cards, and have used the

    Lexar 133X WA 2GB series so far --- for the price, Kingstons through Adorama

    would be an excellent buy, but I'm wondering what *practical* experience

    people have to share relating to write speed and impact on your event

    shooting...<P>

    For when you're "in the thick of it," have you noticed a help/hinderance

    relating to the cards you've chosen to shoot with and your shooting workflow,

    in terms of write speed (and apart from overall capacity) ?

    <P>

    Many thanks for your input -

    <P>

    -Mike

  15. Hey, gang -

     

    Looking for help on the actual backdrop itself -- that is, the

    quality/manufacture/material.... I've been using a 12x20 white vinyl-coated

    drop from Backdrop Outlet for the last two years. Holds up generally well,

    except that it picks up tons of footprints and scuffs (even when we have

    clients wipe shoes, etc., etc). Have used white seamless paper, and same

    problem. Hit upon using a 'floor' of melamine (2 @ 4x8ft) for high wear &

    tear use; simply sweep/wash/remove scuffs as needed.... But then I have a

    seam to deal with (tape, PShop clone tool, etc... ugh).

     

    Need the ability to work head to foot, not just head & shoulders.

     

    A year of wear & tear, and I'm needing a new drop. $99 apiece, I believe, so

    I'm wondering if I need to just chalk it up to consumables in my accounts...

     

     

    Anyone have better success/solutions that are tried & true in their studios -

    different materials, approach, manufacturer, source? I'm open to all and any

    input -- hope to hear from you.

     

    -Mike

  16. When you buy, it *always* tells you "shipped from: ACME Camera Company" or somesuch, unless it says "In Stock," in which case it's coming from the Amazon warehouse itself. That information is immediately under the product title/name.

     

    Incidentally, I had my eye on a 16-35mm L from Amazon (didn't want to buy @ Adorama - NY taxes) - and it's now out of stock for the next two months (!).

     

    -mcs

  17. On behalf of anyone who reads this thread, I want to lift Anne up with thanks for the posts and resources she contributes here at the WedForum ---- such a great presence here on the board, and always willing to help the rest of us!

     

    -Mike

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