anthony_cicero

Ah, I see...so then it doesn't matter. What would cover up that meter, the eveready case? Or would it just have to be stored in a dark closet or bag?

I have the option of buying an Autocord L/LMX with a selenium meter that is

said to respond to light. I've read that these meters can go kaput, but I want

to know whether the fact that this camera has a lenscap (it's one that has a

hinge in the middle, is that original?) which (presumably) has been on during

its time in storage would give the meter a longer life, if it isn't exposed to

light? Also, are there any tests to perform short testing side by side with a

handheld meter?

 

A

Donnie - apparently the stop down pin is stuck in the "in" position! (Thanks to Rick for that info.)

Donnie - the needle doesn't seem to move properly when turning the aperture ring, for example. There seemed to be a uniform amount of movement with the mamiya lens, but with this one it seems to barely move with one then move a quite a bit with another. The lens blades do seem to be moving properly.

Winifred - ...or I'll get another bum camera. The wonder of ebay!

 

I have my Mamiya DSX, but I took the 1.4 55 apart to clean out the sand (yes, sand) that was grinding away inside, and now I can't seem to put the thing back together properly so that the focusing ring turns something. I tried the TLS lenses on the Mamiya since the body works wonderfully, but it seems like the metering is off, even though they are both M42 screw mounts. So I still can't use my DSX.

 

Rick - that might be worth both our time--how much were you thinking?

 

I may just use it as a guinea pig and open the thing up and do what I can.

I bought a Ricoh TLS 401 on ebay. Came with a 135mm Vivitar 2.8, and

Auto Rikenon 1.4 50, small old tripod, and Weston Euro-Master meter.

Seller told me all shutter speeds work. For less than $50, I thought

it wasn't a bad deal.

 

But.

 

The Ricoh's shutter sticks. I think. It has a tendency to do this,

at all speeds, even 1000. But it doesn't do it every time.

 

I say "I think", because what's peculiar is that with the back open,

the shutter isn't stuck open. It's the mirror that goes up and

sticks. The shutter hasn't even opened.

 

I have to wind it again and let the lever slap back in order to

release the stuck mirror. At this point, the lever hits and the

shutter then opens and closes, with the mirror going back down with

it.

 

The second peculiar thing, is that 1) the camera lets me wind a

second time, and 2) the winding lever stays locked like its been

cocked, but nothing more than a barely imperceptible click happens

when I press the shutter release.

 

The shutter blades don't look dirty. The only abnormality is in the

picture, and looks like wear from constant friction. Doesn't look

like an oily or sticky substance to me (I had to shine the light

directly on it for it to show up, it's not actually reall that shiny).

 

So is what I am experiencing sticky shutter blades that only a CLA

will fix?

Could it be possible that the yellow oil between the focus ring and its contact area was somehow holding it in place and providing enough friction to turn ring (2) without sliding around it at all? And that the silicone lubricant I now used isn't doing that?

 

I still can't figure out how those screws inside ring (2) affect anything.

I disassembled this Mamiya / Sekor Auto SX 1.4 55mm lens to clean out

the scratchy grit and ended up having to relubricate to achieve my

goal.

 

Now I'm having trouble putting these elements back together without

the focus ring being disconnected and useless.

 

http://www.imagekafe.com/image.php?image=c2ced.jpg

 

The order I'm going in is: screw ring (1) into ring (2), screw ring

(2) into lens face (3), then slide focusing ring (4) over lens face

(3). When I do this, focusing ring (4) is loose and doesn't turn

anything.

 

There are 3 screws with washers sitting in the middle of ring (2),

and they don't seem to properly fit into the holes in ring (2) from

which they came. I believe this has something to do with it, but just

looking at the screw placement, it doesn't seem like the screws would

affect anything. There are also 3 screws without washers in the 3

holes of ring (1), but they don't seem to do anything either, they

don't even pop out of the other side.

 

Any tips or ideas? Anyone done this before? Anyone have this SX lens

that could take a look at it?

 

HELP!

 

(and yes, I know I violated the rule of taking pictures as you

disassemble so that you aren't confused when it comes to

reassembly...lesson learned.)

Peter - Amazon informed me that we can order from the amazon.co.jp site IF we can read japanese. The display in english option is only for the help section, apparently. Nice that they have the book for sale, but it's not getting to any of us from that co.jp site, unfortunately, unless we can read japanese.

 

$82.50 is far out. It's ~$20 on the amazon.co.jp site.

Thanks Rick. You're always so helpful, it's great.

 

I almost picked up a Sensorex II, good thing I didn't!

 

Do you see the Ricoh TLS 401 meter needle issue as a real problem? The waist level finder and 1.4 are attractive...

RICK,

 

What do you make of a Ricoh TLS 401 that has a responsive meter, but the meter needs a tap on the side of the camera to start responding?

 

Also, can you clarify which model of the Sensorex (Sensorex, Sensorex II, Sensorex EE) has both spot and average metering? I have searched using google, but I cannot find any clear information on this.

 

Thank you!

Dan, what is the limiting factor?

Wow, great responses.

 

I understand that the price difference in faster lenses comes from the number of elements, size of elements and proper control of light. Also, that a faster lens needs to open up much wider makes complete sense...not surprising that the f.95 Canon blocks part of the viewfinder.

 

Some part of me thinks it's strange that as you approach f0 (if there is such a thing), it seems you'll hit a theoretical limit to how wide an aperture can be used.

 

It bugs me that a lens is at its worst wide open. I rarely even find I can get close to f16, I'm always groping for more light. I guess I should take that up with mother nature. Maybe I need to shoot in bright sunlight more often.

 

Thanks to everyone for the responses.

So, I got my DSX 1000.

 

I think the lens could be in better shape, while there aren't any huge gouges, it has its

share of light scratches that are clearly from cleaning. Strangely, they're not visible

through the viewfinder, and hopefully they won't show up on film.

 

Metal part of the camera is a bit dirty, but it seems to be nothing that a little alcohol

on a cotten swab can't cure.

 

In any case, it seems to be working well, and for what I paid, I'm exceedingly happy.

Here's hoping it puts out a good roll of film! Now I just have to find a lenscap for it...

 

BIG THANK YOU for all your help, everyone who responded.

1) how much more light will an f0.95 lens let in compared to an f1.4?

2) compared to an f1.8?

3) f1.4 compared to an f1.8?

 

Is the difference in (1) just more or less one stop? Difference in

(3) just ~2/3 stop?

 

If so, why is the current Nikkor 50mm prime 1.4 ~2.5x the price of

the 1.8? For less than one stop?

 

Again, this is a general question, the lenses are just for real world

example.

Great to know it's a good lens, I can't wait!

Thanks Rick! If I go for a Sensorex I'll make sure to go for an EE, to be safe.

 

The metering pattern is a bit strange. And I'm glad I went with the Mamiya DSX for the first try, I would have been very, very disappointed with only spot or only average metering when I was expecting both. There's something about the Sensorex though...I like, for example, the idea of the shutter release on the front of the camera.

 

I found a Ricoh TLS 401, but only the spot works, when set on average the needle doesn't respond.

 

Hopefully this DSX works out. I'm really looking forward to the fast 1.4.

Zeyed, thank you for the input.

 

I am (technically) the proud owner of a Mamiya DSX 1000 with 55mm 1.4 prime. Very happy about getting such a fast lens. I'll let you all know how I like it once it's in my hands....

Richard - great info.

 

I'm a bit confused. You seem to be saying that the Sensorex EE is the only one that of these Mirandas that has both spot and average metering. The manual for the plain old Miranda Sensorex on Mr. Butkus' site says,

 

"MIRANDA Sensorex which has become your companion from today offers a new standard for quality cameras. It provides the advantage of through-the-lens light measuring at open aperture, closed aperture or through selective spot or average reading..."

 

Now, I would think that there would be a switch to go between the two modes of metering, and that it would be the simplest way of figuring out what a camera can do, but I really was under the impression that a Miranda Sensorex could both average and spot meter!

Richard - X-700 is out then. Thanks.

 

Donnie - I was looking at the Miranda Sensorex manuals on Mr. Butkus' great site.

 

Can someone tell me the difference between the Miranda Sensorex and Sensorex EE?

 

There are almost too many options at this point, and not enough information on all of them to compare. (I do have to say I love the idea of the dual option viewfinder the in Ricoh...but the only one I could find has a broken centerweight.) There is a dearth of information on the Vivitar XC-2, for example!

 

I like the Miranda Sensorex, and it's most available, but finding one with a good prime lens is tricky.

 

I'm going to close my eyes, pick the one that's most available to me and just try it out.

QUESTION: Will someone verify whether the Minolta X-700 has centerweighting or spot or both?

 

I'm getting conflicting reports in my research.

Well, looks like I have plenty of models to choose from.

 

a BIG thank you to everyone who contributed!

 

I will update with the model I have chosen (and hopefully found...)

David - will I be able to spot like I spot with my N75? Do you know off hand if those three cameras can switch between spot and centerweighting?

 

Richard - "big makers" means a name that I would know...no, a manufacturer who had made enough of these that I'd be able to find one, and whatever else I need! (lenses, etc). I was also thinking a major manufacturer would uphold a certain level of quality, but if something from a smaller manufacturer does what I want it to do, then I'll use it.

 

I was considering the Mamiya DSX because it has both spot and centerweighting. I wasn't considering the spot-only MSX.

DSX for me!

 

Any advice on the lenses I should be looking for with these cameras?

Thank you Peter. Will you give me some model numbers to research?