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ron_h__portland_

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Posts posted by ron_h__portland_

  1. I'm about to jump back into developing my own film as well. I've shot a couple of rolls of FP4 that are just sitting on a shelf waiting for the splash of ID-11. I have yet to buy the tank and associated gear and hence my query to all... Stainless steel or Paterson? I've used both and don't mind rolling film onto a stainless reel. Why did you go with the Paterson, Trevor?
  2. Trevor,

     

    Consider using one of those wine air evacuator gizmos to remove as much O2 (the offending agent in oxidation) from your saved stock solutions. The bonus is you get to drink some fine wine (red is best because the bottles are very dark). Fill the bottle with stock solution, and pump out the air. I've heard it works well. Also, I recall Huw had the idea of using a spent wine bag from boxed wine to store chemicals. Oxidation and light are the enemies.

  3. Ok, I tried the rubber band and it works perfectly. The band in question is used at our local supermarket to wrap bundles of vegetables like brocolli and asparagus. We just keep a couple around in a kitchen drawer. It is the perfect diameter for the hood and stops the hood from retracting. The only "drawback" is that it is a garish purple colour. Oh well, it is free.

     

    Ron

  4. Jonathan,

     

    I have the same vexing issue with my 50mm summicron. I have considered, though haven't tried, a strong (i.e. small) circle of rubber band to wrap around the proximal end of the hood in its extended position. In that way it'll stay in place and be removable with no cosmetic effects to the hood.

     

    Your thoughts?

     

    Ron

  5. Ellis

     

    Nice image. I suspect I'll hear a lot of rebuttals to this post, but I feel it's a fine example of how even a very fine digital capture distorts an image. I only had to take a quick look at the eyebrow hairs in the close up (crop) to see the tell-tale digital artifacts I abhor. Examine this closely. I think you'll see similar artifacts across the entire image. Of course, this is a tight crop. However, it shows there's a some way to go before digital images meet my expectations. I don't mind a bit of grain in a photo. Somehow the pixellated artifacts seem more jarring.

  6. Eric ~

     

    "what's 40,000 frames worth in $$$ for film? more than a new dslr? or compared to a used dslr? it doesn't take long to pay off a D70."

     

    You're kidding?... right? How much is your time behind the computer worth? And how much are we all spending on insanely expensive injet printer ink and paper? I suspect cost is a very small difference between film and digital. But, I realize that wasn't your main point. Carry on.

  7. Ross

     

    Consider the 90mm Macro Elmar. It's small, it's versatile, and it's relatively inexpensive (for a Leitz lens). Besides, I've been wanting to try it out or get someone to do the trying for me so I can glean some info vicariously.

  8. I'm thinking about getting an MP to join my M6TTL. However, one detail

    is bugging me about the camera.

     

    Does anyone out there know how the Leica (or other aftermarket)

    MP/M3/M2 rewind crank works? My real question is when the film is

    wound on to each frame, the rewind knob must be free to turn to allow

    film to spool out of the cassette. If one has the Leica "rapid" rewind

    accessory/crank attached how is the spooling out of film supposed to

    happen? Obviously, the rewind accessory will stop the straight,

    knurled rewind button from turning... right/correct... or am I missing

    something?

  9. Etan

     

    Point(s) taken. However, the short lens to film plane distance in a Leica-M is critical advantage only with wide angle lenses. Consider the 135mm f/3.4 Apo-Telyt-M, a moderate telephoto, and considered one of the best, if not the best, lens of its focal length available.

     

    Quibbling, to be sure, but a bit of "touche" is fun here.... "En garde"!

     

    To be a bit more serious, I love the M Leica for it's small size, fast lenses, relative unobtrusiveness, and simplicity. The latter is something often overlooked. IMHO todays DSLRs have way too many buttons and dials on them. C'mon, does a photographer who really knows what he/she is doing really need 12 exposure modes! Sometimes too much choice is not a good thing. Life is complicated enough without having to memorize dozens of menu choices on a tiny LCD screen on the back of a camera. Isn't this supposed to be about photography?

  10. Interesting perspective Etan. You have at least one misconception I should correct you on: "The coveted Leica lenses are sharp... but its not particularly difficult or expensive to design a sharp lens the size and complexity of one for the leica M mount"

     

    Actually, it is decidedly more difficult to design a very fast, extremely sharp and very low in distortion lens in such a small package. The designers of Canon EOS and other modern lens mount sizes for SLRs have distinct advantages. They don't have to concern themselves with size. Leica M lenses are designed to be small (users like to be able to see around the lens through the rangefinder) and fast. That's an extremely tall order. The fact that Leica engineers manage to and, based on many of the strictest independent measurement criteria, do this arguably better than any other manufacturer, is astonishing.

     

    Ron

  11. Thanks to all for your thoughtful answers. I think the idea of using a yellow filter for my B&W work is best. I'll continue to use a hood as a protective measure (though the built-in hood on the most recent 50mm summicron does not lock ;(). BTW this topic is old I agree(started some time shortly after the earth cooled). It's just something I wanted to get an informal poll on. It seems we are a split bunch on this one.

     

    Ron

  12. I've just become the proud owner of an M6TTL and 50mm Summicron sold

    to me by another photo.net member (thanks again Armando). I was

    wondering how many of you use a skylight or UV filter to protect your

    lenses. Do they affect image quality in any way? When I owned a Leica

    in the past I refused to "cover" the great Leitz glass with anything

    save a hood. What are your collective thoughts?

  13. I'm with Barry on this one. It's both about having to fork over money for simple upgrades and a philosophical opposition to a culture of waste. We seem to be terribly interested in what's the latest and greatest with little/no regard to what our consumption habits are doing the the planet. I, for one, am happy to use a camera that will still be taking great photos long after I'm gone.
  14. A few years ago I made a "classic" mistake. Forgive me, for I have

    sinned. Toward the end of my college days I sold my M6 classic, 35mm

    cron and 90 tele-elmarit. The proceeds of the sale did help me pay

    tuition and rent, but now I have no decent camera (just a

    point-and-shoot Olympus for family pics).

     

    I want to get a simple M6/M6TTL and 50mm (cron or elmar-m) combo to

    get shooting again. Where's a good place to buy a decent used set?

    I'll have to order online or by phone and want a reputable, fair

    dealer. I've heard of Tamarkin. Any suggestions?

  15. I'm looking at buying a 50mm Summicron (version 3 without built-in hood). The glass is clear

    and everything else looks in excellent condition except one thing. The aperture diaphragm

    blades have a bit of oil on them. My understanding is that this shouldn't affect the imaging

    quality of the lens or its mechanical workings. Is this correct? Should the lens be serviced?

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