joobass

I just like to share this photo good or not,

 

thank you very much. I will take your advice next time I take star pictures.

Also I thank you for your impovements done on my photo.:)

Hello every one.

I am posting o picture here today and want your true and honest critisim about it.

This picture was taken with nikon D810+AF-S zoom nikkor 17~35mm at F2.8 ISO 1600 at 30sec exposure..

This was taken at 1 am after the the moon has set over the horizon,

I got the milky way picture I wanted but I failed in making the milky way look more spectature.

I have tired it on th lightromm with the raw file but failed.

what did I do wrong? is the exposure to long? what can I do with the noise? was my exposure time to long or ISO to high.

tell me what ihave done wrong before I go night photograhpy on next dark moon late july.

I dont want to fail this time. please sincerely help me!!!!!

 

<p>For the head I'd suggest Arca Swiss D4(I waiting for mine) or cube C1(good and precise head). but I do not recommended any ball heads. the C1 cube is good and convenient for landscape and panorama shootings.<br>

For the tripods, i wouldn't recommend gitzo, for they have very high price for the quality. I would suggest RRS TVC 3 series. or try the photoclams PTC524. they are made of 8 layers of 40t tensile carbon fiber sheets. the weight is 2.3kg and leg diameter is 40mm. very sturdy and stiff and well made will bare any load since it can withstand my weight(115kg). the best part is they cost only half the price of Gitzo 5 series.<br>

You can by them from photoclam internet Home page(photoclam.com?).</p>

<p>Try looking Up on PTC524 carbon tripod from photoclam.<br />I recently bought it and it was very rigid and stiff well built(the legs are 40mm in diameter, made of 8 layers of 40 ton tensile carbon fiber sheets).<br />the best part is it only cost about half the price of gitzo 5 series or RRS TVC34L.<br />I wanted to test how strong it was so I hang myself on it(My weight is about 115Kg).<br />-> It withstand it and worked perfectly afterward.<br />I think you won't regret it and would look fine with your D4<br />(I personally ordered one and waiting for delivery which may be take 1 or 2 months).<br />You can by it from their internet homepage(photoclam.com?)</p>

<p>I am trying to process two films which expired about 2010. 1 roll of Rollei R3(ISO 400) and Rollei Retro 100. <br>

Their date of expiration was arouund 2008. I think They were last exposed around spring of 2007.<br>

My question is shoulder ex my develper time and if so how much longer? The developer solution I plan to use was Rollei high speed developer. Should I use other developer solution?</p>

<p>I've had it( D7000) for the last 3 days now and i haven't had any probelms with it what so ever, yet.<br>

The images are much sharper than D5000 and much quieter to my ear.<br>

and the colors are well recreated to the original and HD image of the video is really sharp and clear.<br>

To me I cannot find any problem wioth the camera, but that I love to much.<br>

(I not a pro-critic, it is just my own impression of the Camera).</p>

<p>I'd go for a Gitzo Tripod. They are light weight and very sturdy.<br>

Few days ago I was looking for a new tripod to replace my old gitzo G2228, it was a good and strong tripod but was very heavy(Almost 3Kg). I tried take a look at a Chinese make called Sirui which was very light and almos half the price of a Gitzo, but I didn't want to expirement with my money so I decide to go were a Gitzo again.<br>

I bought GT1541T(0.97Kg) and GT1531(1.15Kg) they are both very light and sturdy(each can hold about 8Kg each). both of them put togather are less heavier than my G2228 tripod.</p>

<p>I was out shopping for a sturdy Tripod few days ago( for Tripods, I like to see directly before I make the trasition)> Anyway I fell upon a carbon fibered Tripod with compnay name of SIRUI.<br>

I was originally looking for old used Gitzo Tripod when met with this one.<br>

It had 8 layers of cardon fiber, it was lighrt weighted, but is it stable, is it sturdy, is it durable etc ...<br>

In other words is it a trustworthy company.... </p>

Ican't comment on 2.8F because I never used one, But I own a GX and FW. They are both great cameras. basically I think FW and FX are the same camera except for the lens FX is stabdard and FW is wide angle.

To my expirience, except for the lens I felt no differance between GX and FW. Therefore I would recommend a GX in good condition, which is easy to come by.

I think Dave made a correct Interpretation on what I have said.

Well at least its the point.

It is a question of prefferance. I own both the Rolleiflex camera and the hassy. each has it ups and downs against each other, but they both take excellent pictures I perffer Rollei, slightly over the hassy, but I'm not saying they are better than hassy. Read this thread carefully and think carefully and make your choice.

In the time of the digitals, film camera has become vary cheep, and with $700 ~ 1000 yoou can gat very good TLR's in good conditions on the e-bay, you can even gat a rolleiflex with that price. for 100 ~ 200 you can get a Yashica TLR, a very good camera for a starter.

Start with these, get used to or get the hang of MF pictures and may be 5 ~ 7 yrs later get the camera you like such as new Rolleiflex or the hassy, or you go with your Yashica for life(They are good cameras too).

I own 7II with 43mm and 80mm lens. and My brother own RZ67 Pro IId.

they both are great cameras with great lens. But to me Rz67 seems just too bulky to carry round especially for landscapes. and RZ67 needs tripod for steady shots. M7II is small light weight, simple to use, and dosen't seem to be as fragile as people says. Of course they are not built like a hassy or leica, but they are stron enough, so don't worry. I recommend the 7II, you can take it anywhere you like, and also their lens are bright enough for almost any landscape shots, except maybe at nights.

I don't know if I understood your question correctly, but 1/500 dosn't mean that the lens rotation time is 1/500, but the istant of picture capture time is 1/500, but actual lens rotation time is longer, if this isn't your answer, than your camera seems to have lens rotation motor problem, I never used 135U, but I've been using the 175 for about two year, and I have never had any problem with the shutter speed or the dial.

I own and used both yashica TLR and Rolleiflex TLR, they both take good pictures, But Rolleiflex has better lens to my opinion, subjective, not objective. So if the cost is your problem, than yashica is the one, if not than get the Rollei.

Light meter in TLR not a waste but it's not a waste. At times it comes in handy and is very accurate with rolleiflex. I have 2,8GX and 4.0FW both gives you good accurate results, but if you have a hand held meter you probably won't need a built in meter. These cameras have TTL functions so when you are using flash with correct SCA adapter, in may be useful(I've never tried).

I cannot tell much about Minolta autocord, but I can tell you much about rolleiflex. I fact I own three of them, 2.8GX, 4.0FW, and baby rollei( I recently aquired a clean body for about $250. they are strudy, reliable have excellent lens and of course excellent results.

my 2.8GX is about 15 yrs old, and i owned it for about 7yrs. during the 7 years time they gave me no problems and cost me nothing in repair catagory so far. they are bigger than 35mm RF cameras, b ut sometimes feel lighter and more compact. They also still produce TLR

so you can still get it reparied by authorized repair shop. as for Miniolta, they say it is a good camera, but I have no experience with them. and I don't know much about repairs. As for Yashica I have about 30yrs old Yashica 124G and and about 60yrs old Yachica LM. both of them work fine and gave me no problems yet. Thus base upon my own experience i would suggest the Rolleiflex, but If it is beyond your budget, Yashica 124-G would be fine too(You can get for $150 ~ 250), about autocord, I can't comment on it because I've never used them.

I got a similar results when I used 220mm film on a 120 pressure plate.

But I don't think it is from wrong pressure plate, I think the problem was that I didn't place the film straight enough.

MF is any camera that uses 120/220. if you are using 6x6fromat camera you get 12 cuts for 120 film, and 24 cuts for 220 films. but must be carful if the camera accepts 120 roll or 220 roll or both.

in 35mm film there used to be 24cut rolls, and 36cut roll, but can be used on any 35mm films, in MF film holder or magazine but be specific for the type of roll it takes. there fore you must varify this first before loading the film. If you like Rf type camera than mamiya 7 or 7II is for you. If you want simple MF than TLR is for you. Rolleiflex TLR is very expenasive, but there are also cheepr TLR, of course all used. and if you want a versatile MF system than hasselblad is you carmera. and if you want a panorama camera than linhof, Horseman, noblex, or fuji is for you, but they are very expansive and heavy. So consider your need before deciding, from what you wrote above, I'd recommend the mamiya 7 or 7II.

mamiya 7II with 43mm lens, or Rolleiflex FW 4.0

I Just can't stop being amazed by medium format picture.

I have may 35mm cameras, including lecia M's I impressed by thier results, but MF cameras results always make me say WOW. Also Hassy isn't fading away, not yet at least.

Enjoyed the Picture very much.

Thank you all for your information.

It was a great help to me.

Yesterday a close friend of mine gave me a Yashica mat-124G TLR that he found

among his fathers relics. he siad he didn't want it sold, but he has no use

for it and he knew I like collecting cameras especially the Old RF and TLR's

so he handed it over to me. But it had no filters, can anyone give me

information on the size of the filter is use's. form the look of it it looks

like Bay I size but not sure. Thank you.

P.S. I never thought I would find this camera here in Korea.

The simplest method is to make a shade over tha lens with your hand.

All what a hood dose is block the glazes by making a shade over your lens. I use this method always - that is if I didn't get to do so.