joel aron
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Posts posted by joel aron
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<p>Just bought my tickets today.. he'll be at the palace of Fine Arts in San Francisco. Looks like tickets are going very fast, but there are still some available for the front row seats, and private reception.<br>
<a href="http://www.fotovision.org/salgado/">here's the link.<br /> </a><br>
And for those that have VERY deep pockets, and love our planet as much as they love the titanium M7 kit....<br>
<a href="http://www.crunchgear.com/2009/04/13/sebastiao-salgado-leica-m7-up-on-ebay/">there is this.</a></p>
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<p><a title="R2D2 in the elevator by mrhollygolightly [ Joel Aron ], on Flickr" href="http://www.joelaron.com/" title="R2D2 in the elevator by mrhollygolightly [ Joel Aron ], on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3572/3394670570_89799040ca_o.jpg" alt="R2D2 in the elevator" width="408" height="600" /> </a><br>
M3 : 50DR : RolleiRetro400 : Rodinal 1:100 : Standing Develop for 22min<br>
<em>The elevator outside of my office at 6pm on Friday night, and a childhood hero.</em></p>
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<p>Bruce Gilden.. great stuff. love his commitment.</p>
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<p>get it. the only drawback I can find, is that it has no way of wearing it around your neck. ;) I love it. It's always on my M3, and makes the trip over to the Mamiya c330s from time to time. I'll often pul it off my m3 in low light, and use it like a mini spot meter... walking around w/ it, sampling shadow areas, and calculating my exposure.<br>
I love it. Not once have I felt that I needed more form it. In fact, I was shocked that it only cost what it does. <br>
There is one little thing.. and this is just a tiny nit-pick.. but the over/under arrows are backwards from what I see in my M6.. so when I'm shoting w/ both cameras, there's a good chance of getting confused. (I often keep 100asa in the M6 w/ a 35mm, and 400asa in the M3 w/ a 50mm).</p>
<p>You'll be amazed at how small it is when you hold it in your hand for the first time.</p>
<p>get it.. don't look back.</p>
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<p>looking at the images, it's pretty safe to say that the shutter curtain is swiss cheese. looks almost like the camera was sitting with a lens on (without a lens cap) facing the sun for a very long time. First bit of solid evidence.. the bubble are in the same place in every frame.<br /> simple replacement with a CLA (that I bet the IIIf needs right about now!)</p>
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<p>very common problem. (you'll find this in a few threads here in the forum) Usual suspect.. the gear/washer under the film spool rewind dial backing out, or coming loose.</p>
<p>Send it to Sherry (Golden Touch). I've been told that it's one of the issues that plagues M6's... it's sometimes due to vibration (micro-vibrations) from flying, and not having the camera in a bag that can absorb 'said' vibrations. My M6 is w/ Sherry at this very moment, as the rewind and shutter was starting to seize (similiar, but not the same issue you're having. ..and I can attest to the fact that the camera was not in a neoprene bag for 3 of the 6 flights I was on a few months ago. Now it's in for service. When I questioned Sherry why my M3 doesn't have the same problem, I was told, "there is nothing on the planet that is built like an M3". Not saying that flying and having an M6 is death to your camera.. but what you're experienceing is pretty common to M6 and M4 bodies.</p>
<p>Good luck.. Sorry to be the messenger of bad news.. but the good news is, it's a simple fix. .and probalby a good time to get your camera a CLA. :)</p>
<p>cheers,<br>
-J</p>
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<p><img src="http://joelaron.com/public/asia_2008/P2_KODACHROME_Hanoi.boyLake-44.jpg" alt="" /><br>
Hanoi, Vietnam : Nov 2009 : Kodachrome 64 : M6 : 35 Summicron-asph</p>
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<p>Hi Robert..<br>
You brush on (very lightly) the Purell to teh camera body... and you have to work fast, cause it's slowly drying up.. the sticky back of the leather is so strong, that as soon as you stick it to the camera body.. it's goin to stick.. to the purell gives you about a 2 minutes to massage the leather into place..After all of the leather was in place, I rubbed it perfectly flat before all the purell dried. soon as the purell dries.. your done. Then I left the camera to cure for about a day.<br>
extra added perk.. when you hold the camera up to take a shot, you no longer smell an old camera... you smell italian leather. ;)</p>
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<p>Loved dealing with cameraleather.com. I'm tempted to re-cover my m3 from them...<br>
here is my Yashica 14e.. red leather.. used their 'purell' method to place the leather.. worked amazingly well.<img src="http://joelaron.com/public/cameras/14e_redleather.jpg" alt="" /></p>
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<p><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3128/3125622098_8943b7aeb0_o.jpg" alt="" width="720" height="485" /></p>
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<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/8559071-lg.jpg" alt="" /><br>
Little India Market, Singapore<br>
<em>Leica M6 : 35summicron Asph : portra 400nc</em></p>
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<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/8559071-lg.jpg" alt="" /><br>
Market in Little India, Singapore<br>
<em>Leica M6 : 35summicron Asph : Portra 400nc<br /> </em></p>
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<p><img src="http://photos.jpgmag.com/417059_104064_17f0bf978f_p.jpg" alt="" width="658" height="430" /><br>
m6 : 50 SummicronDR : efke25</p>
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<p><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3128/3125622098_8943b7aeb0_o.jpg" alt="M3 " width="720" height="485" /><br>
M3 : 50 Nokton 1.5</p>
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<p><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3187/2767636312_8445114be7.jpg" alt="" width="491" height="500" /><br>
<strong>fomapan 100 + rodinal 1:50 + Leica M3 + 50-summicron-dr </strong></p>
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I'm in Hanoi right now.. and looking for used camera shops, and I can safely say.. nothing is to be found here that I have seen. I'm heading out again tomorrow in the morning to see what I can find.. I'll send an update tomorrow night, but it aint looking good.
What is interesting, is the cheap color film (that I may have to try!) ..stay tuned on that also!
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yeah... they have a Canon 1Ds MkIII
for $1250 new in box. these guys are no legit... no way.
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Vic, and all,
Thank you so much for the comments!
I've tried all of the above, and it's still there. I'm going to shoot with in asia regardless. (gotta leave in a
week..so no question there) Leica called me today (wow...amazing customer service!). Mark, from Leica,
returned my call, after we talked the day before. He mentioned that if the spot would not go away after a lite
surface cleaning did not clear it up, then they would be very interested in seeing the lens.
I shot a test roll last night, and I'm going to shoot another one tonight of a test grid (yeah...I'm that geeky).
Last night's test roll does not show any problems. (yay!). I'm sure the grid shots will tell me for sure.
For any geeks like me that are interested in this outcome.. I'll post a few images (if I see anything), and I'll
let ya know if I send the lens in to Leica, and what they say.
Side note... so blown away from my conversation w/ Leica today... they were seriously interested in the issue,
and it makes me want to send the lens to them regardless of the severity of the issue...just so they can test it
for future lenses.
Thanks again everyone!
Vic... please don't feel guilty! The lens is still the best glass i've ever used! ..stuff (you know what word
I'm trying to use).... just happens! :)
cheers,
-Joel
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Was blowing some dust off of my 2 year old 35 Summicron-M, and when I looked at the surface of the outer lens, I
saw what appeared to be a small (just under 1mm) perfectly round violet dot. If I hold up the lens to the
light, and look through from the front, looking to the back, the dot goes away, but when I slowly move the lens
around, I see what looks like a small amount of distortion where the dot is.. like a very tiny inverted water
drop. It's not on the surface of the out element.
Could the coating be coming off!? This is such a bummer, as I'm about to head back to Asia to shoot.
It's almost dead center. I take very good care of my lenses...and even more so w/ this one, as it's new (bought
from Vic here on the forum).. so it's kinda strange.
Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Should I not worry about it, and just shoot? (duh!), or is this the
start of something that could be very bad when I get in the to isolated humid hills of China?
thanks as always!
-Joel
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Tristan.. thank you so much for all the DIY movies you've uploaded!
After watching them all, I had one of those 'this is why I love the web' moments. So... no need to remove the wax for top plate removal on the M6? And.. what size flexi clamps do you use for both M6 and M3? ....please save me from the $200 set to get 'em all, when I know..i only need a few.
thanks again!
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that's 'pull' your times. :)
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http://www.freestylephoto.biz/techtips_filmdev.php
...that may help. I use xtol for my foma films. appears less aggressive on the highlights. You may even want to try rodinal or pyrocat if you're not so concerned about grain.
You can push the 200 pretty well.. go for 800 as a test, and use hc110 'b' for about 6min. ...5min for 400. best to lull your times a bit w/ Fomapan. No matter what, the negs are stunning!
good luck!
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sorry.. i meant d76 developer, not tmax.
good luck!
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curious what your agitation method is like? Possibly a few things. For starters... you may of figured this
out..but till you get it nailed down, use a practice roll..
<p>
<b>
-try all new chemicals (of course, mixed and diluted with distilled water)<p>
-fixer is possibly tired?<p>
-do you use plastic spools in your tank? If so, they may be warped in some way, not allowing fluid to pass
through<p>
-agitation not vigorous enough?<p>
</b>
<p>
My immediate suggestion.. pre-soak your film in distilled water for at least 1 min. Agitate a few times with
the pre-soak.
<p>
Any one of the answers here in the forum could be right. My money is on bad developer, and too gentle of a
agitation. (agitate at least twice a min for tmax dev...hard at that, and for only 7-10 seconds every 30
seconds.. and smack the tank down after agitation for the first couple of cycles)
<p>
hope you get it worked out! thats a bummer!
do you know the camera in this photo?
in Leica and Rangefinders
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