brucecahn
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Posts posted by brucecahn
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<p>No pictures are required unless promised. I send a few (3-5) to be kind.</p>
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<p>A 100 to 500 watt frosted household bulb in a Smith Victor reflector is a beautifult budget light. I have even shot people on 16x20 film with it. </p>
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<p>A macro will be sharper. You didn't mention what the surface of the vase is. If glossy, the lighting will be tricky. You might try a light on either side to avoid reflections. It doesn't matter which you use, flash or tungsten, as long as you get the color temperature right.</p>
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<p>I never liked color film. Too expensive at every stage of the process and it easily deteriorates. For me digital color is the answer. But for b&w I still prefer film, 8x10 sheets when possible.</p>
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<p>Fighting isn't always the best option. </p>
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<p>You are not crazy, just retarded. Try a Mamiya RB, Hasselblad 500 or Pentax 6x7.</p>
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<p>After many years of trying them all (med format film cameras) I have happily settled on a Mamiya RB 67 Pro SD. The only disadvantage is the weight, which will not matter in the studio on a tripod. Overall, I get the best results of any medium format I have used with this camera. You can get one at KEH for well under $1000 used in almost new condition. Extra lenses are $200-400. I prefer the results to Hasselblad, Pentax, Rollei etc.</p>
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<p>I don't know. I have both Canon L lenses and Zeiss for my 5D2. I think the Canon 85L is a great portrait lens. I don't want anything sharper, though the Zeiss is maybe a little sharper.So is a Leica 75 or 90. </p>
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<p>Bellows tend to sag when the camera is left open for extended periods. You can put something under the bellows to prop it up. Dust can also be a problem.</p>
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<p>My suggestion is skip the retouching.</p>
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<p>. It is an infrared film, but not quite as infra red sensitive as other such films. You do get the infrared look. I used the 4x5 sheets, and was a little disappointed in the quality of the picture. Not as good as a normal 120 film. Also, many of the sheets were missing the notches, so it was easy to lose track of which side was out.</p>
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<p>Sounds like you got a good deal. As far as lenses go, the 210 is a good all purpose choice. If you need a wide lens, the 90, as mentioned above, is the most useful. Wait until you see that you need it before getting one. A 135 is very useful as well. If you happen to be nearsighted you don't need a loupe, just look thru your bare eyes. </p>
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<p>I used to be able to hand hold a Linhof down to 1/4 sec, a Leica at a similar speed. Now, older, I never hand hold below 1/60. It is a question of how old and steady you are. When hand holding a 35mm camera for a vertical, brace both elbows against your chest. Do not fly one in the air in the commonly used position.</p>
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<p>A similar problem with an M6 was fixed by Leica USA. A few years later the meter still works perfectly.</p>
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<p>The 24L is the one to get if possible.</p>
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<p>For maximum sharpness always use a tripod & make sure the (portrait) subject is not moving. If that is not enough, an L lens would help. But that won't even be necessary if you sharpen the pictures with Lightroom or some similar program. Also the aperture is important. For max sharpness shoot somewhere between f4 and f11, 5.6 to 8 being the sweet spot on most dslr lenses.</p>
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<p>I made that switch about a year ago and am sure it was a good move. I got a pair of 5D2 bodies, the 85 f1.2, which is a great lens, the 24 f1.4, also a great lens, and the Zeiss 50mm macro, which is extraordinary. I can recommend them all. I am thinking about a 70-200 L, mostly to get the 70mm capability. Your list sounds good, but there is no backup body, and the 24mm is a great lens for the street, and for special situations, including getting a different look.</p>
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<p>Steve: About wearing out FM2 shutters: I went through 5 of them on two cameras. I used to shoot portrait customers with that camera. I liked it because it was simple and had a 1/250 flash sync speed. What that meant was that if the subject was moving a little, the picture was not blurred at all. But it did kill shutters. I got about 35,000 shots from each shutter.</p>
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<p>There are many thousands of people who make photos seriously as art.</p>
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<p>Do you get what you want from your Canon? If so, why switch? I prefer Canon, and switched myself from Nikon in order to use the 5D2 and 85mm f1.2, two items that Nikon lacks. Both companies make good cameras though I think the 5D2 beats the pants off a D700, and some of the Canon L lenses are unusually good. The 85mm f1.2 is actually sharper wide open than my Leica 75mm f1.4.</p>
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<p>My suggestion is to start with one light. Learn to use it, then add as you need it. </p>
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<p>I use a 140 macro for portraits, sometimes the 127, sometimes the 180. It doesn't matter much. You can also use the 110. They are so inexpensive these days you can get them all and then decide.</p>
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<p>For no shadow light from the side(s).</p>
Which lens should I purchase?
in Canon EOS Mount
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