jeffrey_steinberg

I usually print 8x10 or above on this printer. I have a client who wants 4 5x7's.

I can't figure out how to reduce the size of the print to 5x7. I am using a Mac, Adobe Lightroom, Adobe

Photoshop and the IPF-5000.

I am doing the printing from within Lightroom.

Thanks in advance for any help.

--Jeffrey

I spoke with Mamiya on 2/1/08 and Danny mentioned that there will be an adaptor to adapt

regular RZ II's to the ZD Back. He wasn't sure when. Just, In the future.

To not have one makes no sense to Mamiya. There are so RZ II's out there at adding and

interface would not be all that difficult.

I am waiting....

Very reliable.

Their cameras always come to me much better than the grade (they are conservative).

Never bought digital from them though.

--Jeffrey Steinberg

Well, I am fan of the old Olympus OM lenses and I am going to give you, what some might think, is a strange answer for a DSLR.

The assumption I am making is that you buy the Olympus camera. There is an adapter that allows you to put OM lenses on the camera. You lose Autofocus but that's not really a problem (I find).

With prices the way they are, you can get some amazing Prime lenses for not a lot a lot of money. There is a conversion factor to deal with so really wide is out. Olympus OM prime lenses are some of the finest glass around and great for portraits with your camera.

I have no experience with Olympus digital lenses (I use Canon). The reason I posted this is if you are happy with the camera, you don't have to worry about the future prospects since these are old lenses.

Now, for a general comment on Olympus as a Digital contender and I am not trying to start a flame war since these are my personal opinions:

--Olympus is going to have a hard time competing R&D wise with Nikon, let alone Canon. Digital cameras are all about chip R&D and that takes lots of cash, something Canon has as a diversified imaging company (eventhough Olympus is somewhat diversified itself, it is no where near the size of Olympus).

-This means that Olympus will probably lag in the Mega Pixel and feature race. Now, you really don't need more pixels than what they offer unless you are making really big prints.

--Personally I have always loved the engineering/design of Olympus products. They are not "mainstream" and somewhat eclectic (flim wise and I suspect digital wise).

I hope this has helps.

Your mileage my vary.

--Jeffrey Steinberg

goto www.certo6.com

Jurgen, from germany expertly repairs them and sells them. Always has great folders. I just bought a Zeiss Ikonta IV and its wonderful to shoot with.

You will love his repaired folders.

--Jeffrey

They are on e-bay all the time.

About $19.

--Jeffrey

I got a 503CW winder for my 503CW but it didn't come with a manual.

The Hasselblad website doesn't allow you to download manuals right now.

Did a search on the forums and can't find the answer.

I can get the rapid winder off and mount the Winder, but it is at an ange. I

can't tilt it into operating position. How do I do this?

--Jeffrey

No picture shown. Could this be a multi angle grip for a C330? I don't remember a RB67 version. There are some L brackets that swap between C330 and RB/RZ since they have the same anti-slip pins.

--Jeffrey

Ok, here is another solution. Its unconventional but it works.

I use a Gitzo Mountaineer 1227 (think that's the number). Its a small, carbon fiber tripod. I use a Novoflex reverse ball (the blue one). Its a very heavy ball head.

This set up works great as long as I hang some rocks or my camera bag/backpack from the center column's underside U hook.

I do that, use a cable release and use mirror lockup on My RZ Pro II.

Works like a champ.

Get the regular lens and add a diffuser for soft focus if you need it (lots of filters already). I would only get the Short Barrel version if you plan to use the tilt shift. While there are some applications for it, I can't see too many telephoto shift needs. Wide-angle/normal shift makes sense for architectual photos.

--Jeffrey

Jeff,

I have the Contax 645 and I just love it. Its an amazing camera. And I love that I can use my lenses on my 35mm Contax N-1.

That being said, Kyrocera just announced that they are stopping making Contax cameras (645 production will end in December, all others right away). Until its seen if another company picks it up, you would be looking at somewhat of an orphan camera. Spare parts should be available for a while but at some point they will not. Hopefully that is many years from now and you will have got a lot of use out of your camera.

From my perspective, the Contax has more system components than the H1 at the current time (although that could change).

Baring the Kyrocera issue, I would advise the 645 from Contax.

I hope this helps. BTW, the 140mm and the 35mm lenses are my favorite. If you do get it, get a vacuum back. Makes all the difference.

--jeffrey

I prefer the metered chimney finder. You can usually find them for about $300 used (they are not made anymore). If you want to use on a Pro II (not your case), you have to have it modified for $119 by MAC (my price last year). In your case it will work as is.

KEH had 1 for sale last week. Its a vertially oriented finder with meter that is accurate and I find looking down to be better than looking forward.

Whatever finder you get, get her a stand alone meter.

I prefer the metered chimney finder. You can usually find them for about $300 used (they are not made anymore). If you want to use on a Pro II (not your case), you have to have it modified for $119 by MAC (my price last year). In your case it will work as is.

KEH had 1 for sale last week. Its a vertially oriented finder with meter that is accurate and I find looking down to be better than looking forward.

If you are going to be hiking and want 6x7, get the Mamiya M7II with 50mm lens. Its an amazing lens and since there is no mirror you get very quiet, shake-free operation. Its a ligh weight, wonderful lens/camera combination especially with Velvia 100.

--Jeffrey Steinberg

Cermaics make sense--it looks like it and Contax was built by Kyrocera which is a major supplier and innovator in cermaics for industrial applications. If memory serves, the shaft the Contax AX used to move the film cage around (it was AF with MF lenses) used a ceramic core).

I hear vacuum and think "whoosh"

I have had my Contax 645 since 1999 and I love it. I finally decided

to buy the vacuum 220 film holder.

Dumb question: Can you hear the vacuum working? I was thinking I

would hear something but I don't hear a damn thing. How do I know its

working (other than waiting to see if I can tell from negative sharpness).

I wasn't expecting a hoovermatic-type sound but something.

Ok, I was in the same issue a few years ago. I have an RZ for at home/studio and wanted large (6x7) negs while traveling. I went for the Mamiya 7II (I have read what you wrote so far, but hear me out).

Used M7's can be had for not much more than the $1K with a lens. If you buy overseas, they are even much cheaper than in the U.S. some of the Hong Kong dealers have a great prices.

If you can't swing the M7, there is the Bronica 6x45 RF which is about $1K with lens. I know Bronica got out of the medium format SLR market but I am not sure what's happening with this camera. Its a bit smaller negative size but if you are going 8x10, should not be much of an issue.

Just my Two cents.

Joseph,

Agreed. When I ment not using a meter, it was if you didn't know how to place it. Many beginners don't understand that so that's why I wrote what I did (I was a beginner a few years ago when I made that same mistake).

--jeffrey

Don't use the meter!!!!

The meter will just make sure everything comes out 18% gray and night scenes are not that way (in my opinion). I learned this the hard way. I woke up at 4:00 in the morning to capture the sun coming up over the brooklyn bridge. I used my meter (similar one) and I got back "daylight" film. The exposure was so long (from the meter) that the early morning sky which was quite dark to my eye, looked as though it was the middle of the day.

There is a great book called "night photography" and it has rules of thum for shooting. A great book.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0817450076/qid=1112980435/sr=1-1/ref=sr_1_1/102-6602606-4248102?v=glance&s=books

I would go with a TLR 6x6. Mamiya C330's are that price range, take interchangable lenses and are built like a tank. Plus, looking down into the ground glass slows you down. Something that is important in my opinion.

I would stay away from the Kievs. If you get a good one, they are great but the I have heard too many stories about quality control/build issues.

--Jeffrey Steinberg

All you need to do is aim the spot at something that is 18% grey or close to that. Look at the aperature/shutter combination and dial it in and you are all set.

Most spot meters are either 1 percent or 2-4 percent coverate areas to help them "zoom" into a very small area.

Another thing--if it supports it--is to meter several different 18% grey areas and average the reading.

--Jeffrey Steinberg

The C330S shares the same lug as the Mamiya RZ Pro II. find a strap that fits that. Also, you can order the fittings that fit the lugs from Mamiya (I believe; double check).

--Jeffrey Steinberg