trex1

What's advantage of TTL metering? It never seems to be accurate in my experience. Oh, and what do you not like about the removable winder? I have never used one, and personally use an ELM, which I love!

<p>No, that is not what I meant. In my case, the repair was justified, and I thought that the 200 bucks cost for a new shutter was very reasonable. </p>

<p>However.........the 40D is notorious for locking up. I have read report after report of this phenomenon. I have also had friends tell me about the same problem. Additionally, my camera locked up a year later, so it could be that it had nothing to do with my daughter chucking the camera.</p>

<p>Anyway, I am not after money, but I think that low mileage 40Ds if they are locking up in significant numbers, which seems very much to be the case, should be fixed gratis by Canon, rather than having people cough up hundreds of dollars of their hard earned lolly to pay for repairs caused by an over-delicate or badly designed system.</p>

<p>Canon is a very reputable company, but so was Toyota. These companies feel like they are above accountability. Toyota will still not come clean about what was making their cars turn into speeding death traps. </p>

I just had my 40D repaired for the same problem. Shutter is shot my case, and it was a 200 dollar repair. Not bad really, except the camera has had very little use. I was going to complain, but when I asked the repair guy (I live down the street from one of their repair centers in Japan), he said it was probably shock (impact) damage. I swore it had never had a shock, and then remembered my 2 year old daughter having thrown it across the room once, it was a wood floor with some tatami covering, so luckily it was not too badly whacked. That was over a year ago, so if that was the cause it took a long time to show up.

<p>Anyway, this locking up seems to be a very very common problem, just google it, and I think it worth a lawsuit to get Canon to fix it for free, the same way people have gone after Toyota. Made in Japan just is not what it was once upon a time.

Oh, it has to be the PC. I am focusing on this damn screen all day, and surely that has an effect? I think the debate is still pretty wide open on environmental factors in deteriorating eyesight. I mean eyeglasses and people who are bookish is a cliche with a basis in reality, non?

Hey thanks very much you guys! Very helpful advice. I will remove the diopter and head to an opticians, but I have had little luck with the Japanese opticians, as they are quite inflexible and do not like to do something unless it is on the menu.

 

 

<p>The meter is well and truly dead, I tried cleaning the contacts but no luck. Also one of the small screws that holds the top plate on is broken. It screws in, but the head is half off. It would be nice to have a new set of those screws, and having a working meter would be the best, but my first challenge is getting a diopter as the view is not clear enough to my worsening eyesight (spend too much time in front of a PC, any ideas on how i can get my eyesight back, or is the damage irreversible?).

<p>Hi!</p>

<p>Anyone have any idea where I can get a -2 diopter for this beast, and how much one might cost? Also, the meter appears to be dead. Any common causes or corrections for this problem?</p>

<p>Thanks!</p>

Hi Q.G., and Russ,

 

The problem is that the release pin is sticking way out, and it is preventing the male part from going past it to mate properly. I am pretty bummed as I wanted to stick it in the lower socket and use the upper for a remote release.

 

While I have your attention, and tips on how to use the elm as a 645? I have a back. I guess a finder is next. How about a grip for tipping it on its side? I have the double grip, but that looks like it would be good for waist level shots only.

<p>At some point I removed the shutter release button from the lower hole on my ELM and stuck it in the upper one. Now I cannot get it back in the lower one. It just will not go in. Any ideas?</p>

Can someone send me information, with how to attach a standard 645n electronic release to a regular manual

version of the Pentax 645? I understand that the same release can be used on both cameras, but not on the 645nII

which has a different connection. Is this correct?

<p>Thanks Charles. These were just test shots, and my friend wears gloves, but unfortunately white cotton ones, hence the thread, which he wears to avoid prints on the jewelry. Maybe leather or surgical gloves would be better.</p>

<p>Your links show a variety of lighting set ups which illustrate what you are talking about.</p>

<p>another</p><div></div>

<p>Another</p><div></div>

<p>Charles, thanks very much for the links to those threads! I will post two shots I did last night. Used flash in both. Love to hear any feedback on these shots.</p><div></div>

<p>Hi all,</p>

<p>I realise this should be in product photography but I can't find the category.</p>

<p>I have a box at home with white walls, which I use from time to time, in order to take photos of stuff I want to sell on Ebay. I use a flash in manual mode at 1/16 full power and a Canon 40D, with a 60mm ef-s macro, and the flash is attached to a handle mounte diffuser. It works fine for taking photos of stuff for ebay.</p>

<p>However, I have a friend, a professional jeweler, who has decided that he would like to do his own product photography. The jewelry is really high end hand crafted and very expensive. They are really each one, works of art. We took a bunch of photos of his work last night, which I hope to post shortly. They looked pretty good to both of us.</p>

<p>He wants to get the very best highest resolution camera (within reason, I am assuming a full frame 35mm size sensor would be fine, not MF but if you think so, please say). </p>

<p>So, my question is, which would be the best for the job? Maybe a D700, which seem to be on sale used for about 1800 bucks these days. And, more to the point, what is the right way to do this kind of photography. My method is a little jerry rigged, as I do not have patience for messing around with lighting and tripods, and just use a flash, which I realise is not the best solution, but good enough for my needs.</p>

<p>What would be the right way to go about doing DIY jewelry shots, in terms of technique, lighting, equipment angles or any other thing you think is important?</p>

<p>Thanks!!</p>

<p>Hi all. I have a set of G lenses, a 28, 45 and 90. I am wondering if it is worth holding on to them for using with a micro 4/3 camera such as the Panasonic G1? I know they are sharp and all that, but they would become manual focus, and my question is is it worth it? Are they that much different from any other lens or perhaps the AF lenses being made for M4/3?</p>

<p>The adapter is about 125 bucks, the camera would be a bout 260 bucks used, and of course I have the lenses on hand. I could probably sell them for a fair bit, and get lenses for my EOS stuff.</p>

<p>My advice is to go with the EOS 5. I just sold an Elan 7 with grip for about 120 bucks, thinking I would never shoot film again, but a mint EOS 5 with the VG10 grip fell into my hands for about $35. I could not resist. Wow, what a camera. There is simply no question, no contest, this is the pinnacle of EOS camera body engineering, without a doubt. In many cases, the newer version of something is not as good as the older one. This is certainly the case with both the Elan 7 and the EOS 3.</p>

<p>Why? Well, for starters, the 5 is simply a flawless execution of a close to perfect design. It is a powerhouse of a camera. Belts out 5 frames per second without skipping a beat (my 40D has had its shutter button clap out with less than 30K shots, so no matter how nice a camera it might be, it is just a paperweight right now). It has a very quiet shutter, compare this to the obnoxious horrible jack hammer sound of the EOS 3, never even mind the 1 series! *rolls eyes*.</p>

<p>Then, the EOS has the near IR focus assist light, meaning it can very subtley focus in dark areas. This wonderful feature has been inexplicably wrenched from every camera made later than the 5 (maybe with the exception of the Elan II). This is such a useful feature, and I have missed it terribly on my 10D, 40D, 350D, and Elan 7.</p>

<p>The 5 has a silent rewind, worth its weight in gold in quiet places. Uses the standard type 2CR5 battery not those annoying batteries the Elan 7 uses.</p>

<p>It is ergonomically just right, perfect. The finder is much better, noticeably so, than the Elan 7. It is the cheapest camera in the world. I was in Costco today, and wanted to buy my daughter a kiddies camera, but it cost more than the EOS 5 I just got....</p>

<p>Go for the EOS 5, I can endorse it 100%, especially if it is mint, a real no-brainer.</p>

<p>People need to stand up for their rights. Use em or lose em.</p>

<p>Amazing.<br>

America is so far off course it is just jaw dropping. "Freedom," "the pursuit of happiness," "life" "liberty." These are the words the world should be thinking of when they think about America. Not photographers being dragged off by goons more at home in Nazi Germany or Soviet Russia.<br>

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/rob-kall/charges-dropped-against-j_b_433955.html</p>

<p>No, with me it is very clear that I am being forced to watch this obnoxious flash crap. I hate flash, and I have absolutely zero interest in role playing games, never did, and probably never will. It's like I am being held hostage by this ad, for a few precious seconds of my life before I can get to the forum to do whatever. It's like walking down 5th Avenue to get a burger, see a friend or whatever and being acosted by a Moonie or a Hare Krishna for 5 seconds, while trying to break their grip on your arm.<br>

It's not classy, and I am really surprised photonet has this crap. You don't get this on Flickr, let me tell you.<br>

Phil, you listening? You are way too smart for this stuff. This is the kind of thing that can really turn people off to photo.net, unless you are trying to turn up the heat and get us to cough up for the subs fee.</p>

 

<p>Well, I never thought Photo.net would manage to pull it off, but one of the best sites on the net has just dropped quite a few notches in my esteem. Every time I click to enter a forum here I am forced to watch a World of Warcraft ad for a few seconds before the forum loads.</p>

<p>THIS SUCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!<br>

Come on Phil and co. This used to be a class act. Not no more you World of Warcraft hustlers. Oy vey! the Shame!</p>

<p>Sorry Manuel, I meant to tell you that I really enjoyed your portfolio at pbase. That lens really comes into its own on a full frame camera. I wish I had a 5D. I could probably afford one, but I have become too attached to my 40D. I just wish the 40D was full frame.... So, you must really love wideangles to have the 14 as well.</p>

Hi guys,

 

I am considering a double grip for my ELM. It seems like a very useful accessory, but looks incredibly unwieldy.

There is almost no information online about this grip. Can anyone let me know about it? Thanks in advance!

I have found that my 9900F is now a giant paperweight, because the drivers for Snow Leopard do not exist. Does

anyone know of a workaround or some kind of solution?

<p>Hey thanks Manuel. Actually I made a mistake. There is no 18mm eos lens. It's a 14mm. So you prefer the 17 to the 17-40 L?</p>

The fridge-HiFi connection sounds awesome! You better get a patent on that. Someone over here in Japan has probably already read your post and engineers at Hitachi are working on it as we speak.