dennis_w3
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Posts posted by dennis_w3
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<p>What are the differences between these lenses besides the obvious difference in focal length? Size, price, resolution?</p>
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<p>Great photos, well composed, well exposed, very pleasing series of a vintage machine. Thanks for posting!</p>
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<p>It's an affliction...at least I do have a couple of RFs buried among those Topcon/Topcors; a trusty Olympus 35SP and a little Canon GIII. And due to arrive in the next few days, a Minolta XE7 with a 58/1.4. I have to stop.</p><div>
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<p>Tony, thanks for the pic of the 85. Nice chunk of glass, I'd never seen one. It looks a bit smaller than my Topcor 85/1.8 even though slightly faster, I guess due to the diameter of the lens mount on the body.</p>
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<p>I always liked the depth-of-field preview switch at the lower left of the lens mount on the 101; as I recall, it also turned the meter off when stopped down, except at the full aperture setting on the lens--a nice way to get around the futsy knurled switch on the bottom of the camera. </p>
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<p>A BSA Sloper, a lovely single, likely a 600 cc thumper (I'm and old BSA fan, having owned many of them)! Built in the 1920s so about 40 years older than your SRT 101. Both beautiful, both from times gone by. My first SLR was a 101, what a great camera. I'd like to see a photo of that 85/1.7 on that black body, please. Your photos above are very pleasing, as usual.</p>
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<p>I won't buy Wein cells. A ratio of 3 out of 4 are dead on arrival or last about 3 days, in my experience; that goes for Amazon, camera stores, and on line sites. Expensive for expired batteries. I use hearing batteries with # 9 O-rings, and add a lump of aluminum foil to get the same thickness as the old mercury cells.</p>
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<p>Update: per the Super D service manual, I removed the base plate and slightly increased the spring plate tension (lower left bar-looking thing which returns the shutter release mechanism to its pre-cocked position). Apparently, over time, the oil on the safety lever clutch shaft needs to be cleaned off and replaced, which I also did. Winding the shutter forward with the slots on the motor drive wheel, the shutter closed. It now is functioning like new. Opening this camera and performing this simple task reminds me how well Topcons are constructed. Now back to shooting some film with that 105 Topcor! Happy Holidays to everyone on photo.net!</p><div></div>
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<p>Is this the same as the Practisix? Looks remarkably similar; I had one of them many years ago, a non-metered eye-level prism, and a bunch of lenses that included the 180 mm f 2.8 Carl Zeiss Jena and a 640 mm f 5 Astro-Berlin. The whole outfit must have weighed 50 pounds, much of it in the 180. Neat camera, though; your results are great.</p>
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<p>Thanks, I'm hoping to be good as new in a couple of weeks, then I'll test this camera--likely will have some shots of snow by then here in Minnesota!</p>
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<p>I immersed the shutter in several rinses of lighter fluid, dried it, and re-assembled it after a thorough cleaning of all glass surfaces. I did use a couple tiny drops of electronic tuner cleaner in the gears since this will provide a modicum of lube. While I won't go so far as to say it runs like a <em>Swiss</em> watch, it runs out very smoothly now, without hang-ups or hesitation on any speed (it has 1/200 to 1/10 plus B). The glass is spectacularly clean and clear--it actually looks like it may be coated. I'm having a little back surgery next week, so it might be a bit before I can post photos, but I'm looking forward to having some fun with this resurrected little gem. Kris, again, thanks a lot for this one!</p><div></div>
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<p>Here it is, opened up; lots of crud, er, I mean crude, in there. I'll be working on this and re-assembling based on digital photos I took step by step. </p><div></div>
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<p>OK, the shutter blades are coated with thick oil. I removed the shutter assembly and front and rear elements, and was able to tease one blade enough to get the shutter to fire (it was cocked, as was expected). It will now cock and fire but the oil hangs it up every time. Next step is to remove the oil. This is a VERY primitive shutter, reminds me of a Pronto shutter I de-oiled some years ago. Hopefully I can get it working and get some photos. More to come...</p><div></div>
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<p>Both cocking and release levers will click a little but there is little travel for the cocking lever and no movement of the shutter blades. I believe it may already be cocked because there is some slight and brief buzz when I change speeds. If anyone here has info on this camera, I'd appreciate it--there's virtually nothing on the net. I don't see any coupling or gearing mechanism that would indicate it needs film in it to function. Lenses are clean and clear, so I want to shoot!</p>
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<p>Well, it's here and looks like a quite nice camera in good shape. Certainly not a Rolleiflex, but it may be a good shooter nonetheless! Thank you very much for your generosity. Now to figure out how to work it. There's a little knob on the front right lower side that is sticking out and it's spring mounted. I'm thinking it should be in the "in" rather than "out position," and I don't know how to get the shutter cocked. Might have to remove the film and reload to sort it all out. Any Start users out there, comments would be appreciated! And I don't see a manual on line.</p>
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<p>That last shot is amazing....</p>
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<p>Great work from a vintage camera and an accomplished photographer! Number 5 is fascinating, with that gun mounted above the center of the wing, I wonder how that thing was operated. Some daring pilots back then. You should post a few photos of that old Bronica, that looks like a work of art too. Wonderful job!</p>
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<p>Does it look like this?</p><div></div>
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<p>I'm SOOO looking forward to this. I used to have an old Rolleiflex, which was fun to use. This won't be a Rollei, but it will certainly be interesting; I just Bing'd it, there's some info out there. I will try to get some results posted here.</p>
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<p>I'd love to see it and shoot it!</p>
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<p>Next chapter. Set the speed on B, pressed the shutter button, shutter stuck halfway. Button now doesn't do anything, the camera is locked up. In 35 years of using Topcon Super Ds, I've never had one break! Oh well, I have another body, but I particularly liked this one because it has that neat knurled wheel for the mirror lock-up. Is this "curtains" for this body?</p><div></div>
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<p>Topcon made a really nice variable focusing mount for its short mount macro lenses (58 and 135), and all RE Auto Topcors fit it. Topcon sure seemed to have a thing for macro and micro work, they had an extensive line of microscope, bellows, and tubes. I still have a little automatic extension tube, which allows open aperture metering with macro. </p>
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<p>Oh, I know it's likely a softer lens...this is more just messing about with lenses and cameras; I want to see what it can do and compare effects like contrast and background, etc. I think it will offer a pleasing look. I have that 100 2.8 Topcor, I don't think there's anything out there that's comparable! I also had the 135 Macro a while back, a very nice lens, too. This 105 MF Topcor also goes to infinity on the bellows--just had to move the camera forward on the rails.</p>
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<p>I have a Topcor 10.5 cm f 3.5 P.S. lens in a Seikosha shutter; for some reason, it was included in a "bundle" of Topcon 35 mm items I purchased some years ago. Nice and clean and operates well. Always an admirer of Topcon optical quality, I want to try it out, but on a 35 mm camera. I would either lock the lens shutter or camera shutter open to take photos.<br /> So, here it is on a bellows with a focusing rail, mounted on an RE Super. Fits nicely, but I'm not sure how to secure it to the bellows flange without destroying its usability on a Horseman if I ever were to find one I could afford. The other question is how to get it centered well, since the rear of the lens is slightly smaller than the opening in the lens board.</p><div></div>
New zinc-air batteries 1.45 volt
in Classic Manual Film Cameras
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