shaun_carter

<p>excellent guys thanks! i'm leaning towards the 7D MkII for the higher iso's and improved autofocusing.</p>

<p>Thanks Rick. i have the 17-40 4.0 lens as my wide angle. I've been doing some research this morning and it doesn't appear that photoshop or lightroom currently supports 7d MkII raw files. That would be a problem for me. I'm sure i could convert raw to tiff or jpeg using the software that comes with the camera but i'd like to still be able to manipulate white balance in lightroom using the full flexibility of raw files. </p>

<p>Thanks for the replies. I shot weddings part time for about 8 yrs but now mostly shoot just family events, kids sports, travel, and occasional portraits and events. Out of the 3 above, I can say the one I have been most disappointed with (sharpness) is the 24-70 2.8 when shooting indoor sports at 2.8. But my question above is just technically speaking, which has canon made the most improvement on for better image quality. I currently do not own a full frame (sold the 5d) but will probably get the 5d mkII sometime in the near future. Indoor basketball, volleyball, karate, baseball, marching band, I'm looking to gear up more for that now as opposed to weddings. </p>

<p>What's the better upgrade? Which has the most significant improvement over its earlier verision?<br>

Canon 7D to 7D MkII<br>

Canon 70-200 2.8 IS to 70-200 2.8 IS II<br>

Canon 24-70 2.8 to 24-70 2.8 II</p>

If you are indeed in england calumet

photo is a pro camera shop with

several locations across the globe that

offers classes in most areas of

photography including weddings. they

have a store located in manchester per

their website.

<p>i just found this out, but smugmug "share" feature allows visitors to email themselves pictures where then they can then right click and save or copy. so selection "yes" in the settings for protection only disables right click and save on the smugmug site. you have to turn off sharing in settings so folks won't have a way to get around the right click. of course they could always do a screen print, but at least their not getting the file.</p>

<p>i was wondering if i could get critiques on my most recent wedding. say whatever comes to mind! <br /> this wedding was a late starter and i haven't had a wedding start this late in a while (1-1/2 late!) but things eventually got back on track. fyi, i shoot with two cameras, a 40D w/17-55, and a 5D w/70-200 or 17-40. during the reception i would switch between the 17-40 (ex. garter and bouquet toss) and 70-200 (ex. candids) on the 5D...thanks!<br /> http://dscphotography.smugmug.com/Weddings/Shalonda-Tyree-8-29-10/13580989_wgFjK#1010838089_WZgso</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Canon 40d w/Canon 70-200 2.8IS: 145mm, 1/60th, f2.8, ISO800, no flash</p><div></div>

Typically the bride and groom like to have pictures to see when they get back from their honeymoon. That's been the feedback most couples give me. Taking that into consideration my target date is 1 week after the wedding. However, my contract says 2-3 weeks. Also take into account that there is a print sale "window of opportunity" you miss if you wait too long. If you hand out business cards at the reception most family and friends will check your website for a week or two and give up after that. The excitement wears off and it's not so important anymore to view and buy prints.

is there a must have lens for full length portraits on a 1.6 crop canon

camera?

Count me in...

Michel Company offers mini 2x3 and 3x3 10 page albums by Renaissance. I just addded them to my list of albums for 2008. I expect it to be a hit but we'll see. They make nice give aways too. So I'm thinking about giving them out free for album orders or print orders over a certain amount.

 

http://www.michelcompany.com/Albums-Any_Occasion/self_mount_albums/renaissance.html

thanks for the responses! i guess with the cloth being semi transparent it may not be a big deal. and the omnibounce does shoot some light straight ahead. i agree i can take a few shots before the ceremony starts and see what my results look like.

are there any photoshop cs3 users that consider lightroom a "must have" versus

a "nice to have"? if so why? thx!

i visited the rehearsal of an upcoming wedding to scope out the place. nice

room but i'm wondering if i should change my flash strategy. the lighting is

really low unless you're standing under one of the spot lights. i don't think

i'm going to be able to get away with no flash at all. normally i use the

omnibouce on a stroboframe flash bracket with the flash head tilted 45

degrees. is that a good idea in this situation? the ceremony will take place

on the floor where all that stuff is hanging from the ceiling. looking for a

little advice...thanks!<div></div>

i have gotten my post processing time down to about 1 minute per picture using

actions in photoshop cs3 for my wedding workflow. i'm interested in lightroom

and i believe it can speed up my workflow because about 10 of those 60 seconds

are spent waiting for each image to save after applying my actions. the set of

actions may be different based on the picture's needs so i haven't really been

able to set these up to batch process. i'm thinking i can cut down on my time

because the "save as" command comes in the end when you export and this is

something you can do to the whole set of images with one command. my question

is, can the actions i have setup in photoshop cs3 somehow be pulled into

lightroom for use there? can the kubota actions be used in both photoshop and

lightroom? thanks!

thanks for the feeback everyone. the helps reinforce the fact that there is no one formula for fill flash. depends on the lighting conditions and desired outcome. sounds like key is knowing what you want before you even take the picture and having a REASON for firing the flash in the first place...

excellent site dave, thnx!

1. locate bride and groom in full shaded area

2. take meter reading with sekonic flashmeter and get 60/5.6@iso200

3. set 30d to manual mode and dial in 60/5.6

4. set 580ex to manual mode, turn dial on flash and push shutter until

distance shown equals actual distance from couple.

5. dial flash down -1 to -2 stops

6. take the picture

 

does this sound right? i'm a little confused about step 2 to 3. do i set my

camera to the actual meter reading?

thanks for the replies! i looked into one of the double sided ones from bhphoto. they are more expense than i thought but still beats studio lighting and backdrops.

anyone using collapsible backdrops (maybe 5x7 in size) for tight portraits of

the bride and groom? if so what is your lighting arrangement? i'm finding

that a few brides are wanting backdrop shots and i currently own none. if

they're stuck on having those shots i just refer them to someone else. i don't

want to invest in expensive studio lighting and large backdrops for only a few

shots. i'm thinking of something small and quick to setup and tear down and

something i can use 2 580ex's with. thx!

Thanks for the replies. My DOF is normally very shallow, maybe 2.8. I use a 20D and 30D and sounds like switching focusing points is the way to go. Thanks.

when using a tripod with an off center subject, does it make sense to establish

focus first and then set the camera on the tripod? i've been finding it kinda

clumsy trying to focus off center on a subject's face with the camera on the

tripod. just wondering what's the right to do it. thanks!

I agree, it looks better with some work on the highlights. Nice fix Ron and Dave. Thanks!

here's a photo from today's wedding that i'm strugging with whether or not to

tone down the highlights in the dress. i'd like a few opinions on whether the

dress is blown out or not. would you leave as is or fix it? thanks...<div></div>