mike_willis1

Thanks for the answers. As to the cords I do have a SC-29 cord, but wanted to not use it, since the SB-28 doesn't work fully with the D50, since it's not iTTL capable. I'll probably get a SB600 soon. As to the lens length tracking I mean auto-zooming of the flash in association of moving a zoom lens in or out.

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

I am contemplating using a SU4 to activate a SB28 mounted on a bracket on a

D50. What I am looking for is to extend the flash capabilities of the D50

without spendimg any more money. I know this will work, but I am going to have

the SB28 mounted to the side of the D50, will the lens length track as it does

when the SB28 mounted on my N90s, will it do likewise on the SU-4? Or will it

not because it is basically being slaved off of the internal flash on the D50?

I just recently got the SU-4, so I am no expert with all of it's interactions

with the SB28.

Yesterday I took over 300 photos at a local Blues Festival with my D50 and 18-

70mm DX AF-S zoom, while doing so I had the supplied hood on the lens. After

getting home and uploading the pics to computer and viewing them I noticed on

many of photos I had shadows or image cut off in the corner. Is this a known

problem with the supplied hood? The lens instruction manual does list an issue

with it blocking the flash on cameras with built in flashes, but I wasn't using

a flash.

Shooting indoor high school basketball, I'll shoot at 5 frames per second,

which is necessary to get the action, but some of the high school gyms are not

that bright so I use flash. I am already using a 300mm f2.8 lens. So I find

that the first frame or second is the right exposure, but there after nothing.

I have three SB28 speedlights available but they can't obviously keep up, but

do you guys have suggestions as to how to either configure a SB28, or what to

keep up with that speed. Do you guys know of something that can work with

multiple flashes to do this? Maybe sequentially fire the flashes to give them

recovery time, but what piece of equipment can do this?

Lowepro Toploader 65 AW

I bought a 2Gb SD card with my new D50 from B&H, but was wondering, I have seen

4Gb cards out there, do they work with the D50? Anyone try this yet?

Well I received my first digital SLR yesterday a Nikon D50 and find the camera

pretty cool, kind of mad at myself for not getting one sooner. I had a thread

asking as to what lens to get, well I decided on a 18-135mm DX, so while

waiting for that I am using my Nikon 28-105 AF and a Sigma 15-30mm AF, but

noticing how exposed to possible damage the read LCD is, I wanted to know what

you guys recommend for protecting the LCD.

 

I was in Calumet Photo checking out lens and a guy walked in with his two day

old D200 with a cracked LCD, and was told by the salesperson, that he was up

the creek without a paddle because that is not coverd under warranty. What do

you guys think of the Hoodman LCD protector?

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

I decided for New Year's that I would dive into a digital camera, so I decided

to start out basicly, so I ordered a Nikon D50 with a 2Gb card from B&H. I was

hoping you guys could give me good direction as to which lens to get. I would

like to get a zoom that would cover a large range with a minimum of distortion.

This camera will be my basic general grab and go camera, I am not looking to

totally leave film behind. My choice for the D50 over the D40 was because the

D50 can work with non-AF-S lenses.

 

My grab and go rig previously consisted of a FG with MD14 motordrive, 28mm

f/2.8 Series E, 50mm f/1.8 Series E, 75-150mm Series E and a Sunpak Auto 266D

flash in a little Tenba P211 bag. I keep an old Slik U212 Deluxe tripod in the

trunk also. Hope this helps, the new 18-135mm look interesting, the 18-200 is

little too much money this close after Christmas.

You are correct I need a few more Andersons, there is another 30+ guitars not shown. It's a real shame that Tom Anderson decided to let everyone go and become a one man business again. It will severely limit the amount of Anderson guitars out there. I believe Andersons are one of the best made guitars ever built.

 

William John Smith, looking at that camera, I may have to agree, you probably have put more film through it than all of mine together. Looking at that pic, I tend to think you are as one with that camera!

Yes, but if I bought the stock of those companies instead of the cameras, I wouldn't of had the pleasure to hnadle those cameras, which just led to me taking more photos, therefore, it kept more of the photography industry going, not just the camera manufactures.

I finally took some real quick photos of some of my cameras. I still have to

take pics of the F4's and F5's. As you will note, I originally started using

Canon back in the early 80's and then changed over to Nikon.

 

I know some of you like looking at gear shots, so I threw in some of my music

gear also.

 

http://community.webshots.com/user/thegrooveking

I have been using an FG since 1986, same camera and it has taken a beating. I have three of them in my collection, add a MD14 motordrive and really becomes easy to hold.

 

The flash sync speed on the FG is 1/90, the SB15 is a perfect match as flashes go. I also have used the Sunpak Auto 266D with great results too.

 

Yes the flash circuitry is TTL on the FG. A lightning bolt on the right side display in the viewfinder will light up when the flash is ready. Immediately after taking a shot if the lightning bolt is flashing, that means the previously shot image is most likely going to be underexposed.

I finally got through to them via phone, thanks for the info, it turns out that whoever at there place who clicked to send me the email about the shipping and payment info, hit the wrong button.

 

Thanks,

 

Mike

Not sure if this is the correct forum, but it in regards to a Sigma lens for a

Nikon camera, if not moderators please move to where appropriate.

 

I was wondering if any of you guys had the same thing happen to you. I used the

BuyItNow option on ebay for a new Sigma 15-30mm lens a few days agp. Earlier

today I receive an email from them saying that I will be receiving an email

from Ebay for canceling this transaction and for me to click okay and that both

of us would not have any negative history. I didn't request for anything to

stop and followed the payment requirements? I checked the feedback on photo.net

and didn't see this listed.

 

I emailed Cameta, but no response through aol or ebay.

Yea, what he said...

Thanks for the information, another relevant question. What is the difference between the Coolscan V and the Coolscan 5000, both are listed at the same resolution, yet the price of the 5000 is twice that of the V. I checked them out on B&H.

In a previous thread that I now can't find I had mentioned that I took some

Velvia 50 in for processing and requested the Hi Res CD-ROMs too. Well this was

my first time doing this and even though I am an analog guy at heart, the fact

of being able to share my pics via the internet strongly attracks me. Well I

was warned by some of you that these Hi-Res scans wouldn't be impressive and I

have to say you are right.

 

I use Helix camera's lab to do my processing and when I asked the guy at the

counter when I picked them up, what type of scanner do you use? His response

was "I don't know". That should of been the warning. Well when I arrived home I

threw the CD into my computer and found out that these so called Hi-Res photos

are only 3.88Mb each. I thought that if they used the Nikon or similar scanner

the files would be larger or even larger if they used a drum scanner.

 

The scanned images definitely do not pop like the images on the Velvia 50 do.

This tells me that if I want to my photos in a digital file, I will need to buy

a slide scanner. Please recommend one for me and any pros and/or cons , I was

thinking about the Nikon Coolscan series. Also what size file do those of you

who do use a Coolscan unit end up with?

Tom Keenan, please check your 5th edition. On page 143 on the lower right is a grey square and it lists lens and hoods that he has tried and used with success. Don't get me wrong, yes I didn't use the depth of field button. I was taking photos at almost dusk and it was one of those situations were I was driving and saw this beautiful view, unfortunately I didn't have a tripod or monopod and had to use f2.8 and f4, via handholding. There was no solid object to lean against or put the camera on.

 

I started this thread because in previous posts I had read some others were confused and even within Moose's book it lists the HN-1 is the hood, but that chart that lists other hoods that work is contradictary.

 

I realize that as the master of my camera and it's related equipment that I am the only to truely blame and believe me I am mad at myself.

I bought a used Nikon 24mm f/2.8 about a year ago, I look into getting a hood

for it. So I check in my Nikon book by a famous photographer that goes by an

animal name it lists HN-3 for the 24mm f/2.8. So I find one about 2 months ago

in a used bin at a local camera shop. Well I took a trip back in Late

March/Early April and burned a few rolls of Velvia 50 of some beautiful

landscapes. Well I thought beautiful, I just picked up the slides and high res.

CD-ROM and low and behold vignetting badly on every shot that I used that lens

on. I check some other Nikon references online and sure enough they list HN-1

is the correct hood. The live and learn applies. Makes me wonder what other

words of wisdom in that book is not correct.

I agree, she was out of line. I accidently clicked on a buyitnow for a F-1 Speedfinder, not realizing until I checked further that is was the a Old F-1 and not a F-1N. I paid the guy and it sits on my shelf until I either sell it or buy a camera for it.

 

The old addage buyer beware applies, customer service starts with the customer. A great line from a company I know is "We will bend over backwards for our customers, but wont bend forwards".

 

Ocean, unless you know this guy, I think you are out of line. I would check to see if she has left allot of negatives for others. Contact ebay and ask them to review it, you may be able to have them withdrawl the feedback, or at least take it off you numerical feedback.

Bill, you listed that you used mirror lockup, did you close the viewfinder shutter? I am not sure but is some of the metering in the prism and if light comes in through the viewfinder window, it may throw the exposure off, not sure just speculating.

Thank you for the information and the links, very clear now. I may get some of my AIS lens converted too.

I am familar with AI and AIS lenses, but I read recently about a series of

lenses that are listed as AI-P, which from a data standpoint I believe is

between AI & AIS, but in some articles/books it makes it seem as if they were

before AI. Confused to say the least, any info on the AI-P lenses would be

helpful.

Popular photography did a review of this lens a few years back and they stated that it out performed the 28-70. I have also read elsewhere reviews that agree with this, I think many overlook this lens because it doesn't have HSM or the broader range of the 28-70.

I plan on buying one.

This topic interests me greatly. My local lab offers both the regular CD and a high resolution version for more money, for 36 exposures they charge $35. I will be picking up the first high res CD tomorrow. I have them doing it to a roll of Velvia 50, so it will be very interesting. I have not yet converted to digital, I am still very much in love with my F3's, but the lure of digital is very tempting.