savas_kyprianides

<p>Your choice whether 25 meg files are a pro or a con.</p>

<p>I'll shoot some by next week. I sent the LX3 to Panasonic to fix a focus issue and to look over all other functions while it's in their hands.</p>

<p>Bill, forget about the DP Review test. Because they say it, it's true? As a customer who pays good money for cameras, my viewpoint trumps any review, I don't care how highfaluting. I own the LX3 and find the distortion intolerable. I see stretched images in the outer periphery. I also owned the G10 and never noticed distortion.</p>

<p>I would just as soon bring my DSLR rather than a 4/3 camera. The size reduction of 4/3 is not that attractive. A small point and shoot is, so long as it's one of the better models. Though LX3 does show distortion at wide angle. G10 is better at base ISO. These are all about compromise. It's what the photographer can live with that matters.</p>

<p>Sports action photography is probably among the most expensive endeavors when starting out, assuming you want equipment with adequate reach and speed. Having two bodies is not uncommon; one set up for distance; the other for when the action happens near you. It also depends upon the sport and it's typical conditions.</p>

<p>Is termite infestation covered under the warranty?</p>

<p>Telling what you enjoy shooting, and under what conditions, will lead you to the answer.</p>

<p>I upgraded for other than the huge files sizes. I'd have been fine if it were 10 to 15 megs. But I am McLovin the detail I am getting when shooting the Big Kahunas.</p>

<p>I am waiting for a firmware fix for the CF door squeak.</p>

<p>Paul, very succinct and to the point.</p>

<p>I happened to have sold my G10 to get the LX3. So far, I have not missed the range.</p>

<p>If you can live with 24-60 focal range at f/2.0-2.8, shooting raw, in a pocket-able format, try an LX3 by Panasonic.</p>

All 70-200 versions are very good. You need to get the one that suits your shooting conditions. The 2.8 IS is a great choice

as you get maximum versatility from the lens, both action and static, good light and low light, all without having to swap

lenses when working within it's focal length.

Sky brightness also plays a role in the planes coming out nicely. Great shot, nicely framed.

70-200 f/4 is largely plastic. Half the weight of the 2.8 version, which is largely metal.

I bought the Canon grip knowing I would be hauling some heavy Canon glass on the camera. I don't want problems after

having saved a few bucks getting a knock-off.

If you need a fast zoom lens in that focal length, then it's worth the purchase. Visit the store and try it out to see if it suits

you before buying or passing it up.

Maybe for a noob, stick to shooting in good light and stop down. Then start experimenting with wider apertures in lower

light, perhaps staying with static subjects and observe the results. You will start to get the picture.

Is there such a thing as Numpty Dumpty?

Cord is redundant and unnecessary. Just maintain a backup battery and you are set.

 

Unless you might one day consider getting a flash bracket to hold the flash higher above your camera. In which case, keep

the cord.

Nick, Calimeras!

 

I am using the Markins M10 with my 70-200 f/2.8 L IS, the longest lens I own. Lens tripod ring is affixed to the ball head

clamp with an Arca-Swiss compatible mounting plate. The combination is very solid and easy to frame.

 

M10, as well as some other brands, come with adjustable friction tension control so that you can set the ball to rotate

smoothly with camera and lens on it, without flopping, when at its most open adjusted setting. Once framed, I turn the

knob one quarter turn or so and it locks the ball solid without any annoying faint movement that spoils precise framing. It

doesn not budge regardless the camera orientation. My Canon 5D with grip and the lens is nicely balanced on the tripod.

I also use an RRS L plate so that the mass is directly over the tripod when in the vertical framing position.

 

Markins sells directly, though I got mine domestically from Nikonians web site, who are wonderful to deal with. They can

comment on how the ball head might work with longer glass, in the event you are considering going longer.

also, try reformatting cards instead of Delete All when you want to get old pics off of it.

When you see the 70-200 f2.8 results, you�ll want to use it indoors and for other low light occasions as well, so an IS model

can be very useful once it is bought and paid for. Heavy? Maybe as compared with smaller range lenses, but not heavy

compared to longer reach lenses. It seems to fall in the middle zone, so some find they need support, some do not. I find

in the heat of action photography, I do not notice it at all - it is all about getting the shots. Coupled with a good hand strap,

the camera and lens becomes a part of you.

I use the non-rechargeable lithium and they last ridiculously long.

OP: Agony? Upset?

 

What if something really serious occurs. What words will describe it?

Bryan, a fast zoom works during instances where you need to change focal lengths

on the fly and where ambient light is not too dismally low.

 

As you already know, primes trump the zoom in speed and image quality. The

question is as to whether your subjects allow for one focal length when using primes

(or might require two bodies, each one dedicated to one focal length each.) Do your

subjects give you time to swap lenses in the case when you do not have two bodies

- rhetorically said. How dark the ambient light is becomes another concern. Do you

have adequate room to move your own person is yet another concern.

 

Personal preferences and field conditions help shape the direction to go in.