j_c36

I have a job coming up that requires white seamless paper, lots of light and several rappers for a clothing

company photoshoot. they want something that looks like a photo on this link:

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h209/missthangxxx/pharell.jpg

anyway, i have a speedotron 2400 pack with 3 heads, a medium softbox, several silver umbrellas and a

silver and gold reflector, oh and a 9ft wide seamless. i have messed around a bit, but i am not completly

sure i am getting the desired effect. i am shooting with the med softbox camera right, an umbrella on

camera left both around 4 ft away from the subject and at around eye level. i have those 2 spliting 400

watts, then i have another bare head pointed strait at the seamless from camera right at i believe 800

watts to blow the back out. is there a better way to achieve the bling effect? also i am pretty sure there is

quite a bit of phooshop envolved. i need to figure this out pronto. any help or suggestions are greatly

appreciated.

thanks

actually, I have a canon 1d mark II where the image is being cropped like 1.3

and the 30mm on the bronica looks very similar to what happens when i use

my 15mm fisheye on the canon.

here is a link to the same lense that i bought

http://www.adorama.com/BR3035PE.html

i want full frame, with no crop, like the hassleblad 30mm

I have a bronica etr 6 4.5 and just purchased a 30mm 3.5 fisheye. it

seems to not be fullframe on my 6 4.5. on a 6x6 the crop , i assume,

will be gone and it would truely be fullframe. Not sure if i am

right, but i need full frame. is there an etr camera in the 6X6

format. i know there is a bronica sq 6x6 but etr lenses do not work on

that camera. any ifo is appreciated, i have 2 weeks to return it, if

it doesn't work out for me, so i need to exhaust my options.

i have a norman 400 b and am curious of what the flash duration is? I believe

it goes from 50-400 watt secs with 4 different power levels. so at the lowest

level (50ws) i am hoping for way more than 1000th of a sec. thanks

i have a norman 400 b and am curious of what the flash duration is? I believe

it goes from 50-400 watt secs with 4 different power levels. so at the lowest

level (50ws) i am hoping for way more than 1000th of a sec. thanks

i have a bronica etr, will the 30mm work on it. or is it just for the ETRS? i would

love to have full frame med format fisheye , but don't want to spend the money

for the hasselblad fisheye, is this lense good?

my problem is definatly the ambiant light overpowering the sunpaks. i always

shoot on manual mode on both the camera and the flash and during the day

always at maximum sync speed (250th) and usually at 400 iso. my problem is

only during the day, in low light or night time there are no problems. i want to

use flash because i like to under expose the backgraound and fill the rest with

flash to bring the subject out more. i have tried shooting at 2 stops or more

under and i still have the problem. it is very problematic, and i need to figure

this out. also, someone said i should just forget the flash and shoot strait and i

do for sequences usually at 8000th of a second but for stills i really need to

bring out the subject(skater). I think the problem is the flash duration, i need

to freeze the subject and make the ambiant light secondary. i am sure

someone out there has the exact info i need. thank you all so far.

my problem is definatly the ambiant light overpowering the sunpaks. i always

shoot on manual mode on both the camera and the flash and during the day

always at maximum sync speed (250th) and usually at 400 iso. my problem is

only during the day, in low light or night time there are no problems. i want to

use flash because i like to under expose the backgraound and fill the rest with

flash to bring the subject out more. i have tried shooting at 2 stops or more

under and i still have the problem. it is very problematic, and i need to figure

this out. also, someone said i should just forget the flash and shoot strait and i

do for sequences usually at 8000th of a second but for stills i really need to

bring out the subject(skater). someone else asked what kind of film i used with

my f5 and i always used fuji velvia 100 and I would never have this problem

with that. I think the problem is the flash duration, i need to freeze the subject

and make the ambiant light secondary. i am sure someone out there has the

exact info i need. thank you all so far.

I recently made the switch from nikon to canon by buying an eos 1d mark II. it

is an amazing camera to say the least, but i am having one problem. I shoot

skateboarding among other things, and i can't seem to stop action during the

day when using flash. I usually use 2 or 3 sunpak 555s on 1/4-1/32 power

with pocket wizards, and either my 15mm fisheye, 70-200 L 2.8 or 50mm1.4

and i have the same results with all of them. at night i can use the same setup

and take the sharpest pics i have ever taken. also, i have used the supaks

with my nikon f5 and it stops the action pretty good. what am i doing wrong, it

doesn't make sense to me why this is happeneing?

I recently made the switch from nikon to canon by buying an eos 1d mark II. it

is an amazing camera to say the least, but i am having one problem. I shoot

skateboarding among other things, and i can't seem to stop action during the

day when using flash. I usually use 2 or 3 sunpak 555s on 1/4-1/32 power

with pocket wizards, and either my 15mm fisheye, 70-200 L 2.8 or 50mm1.4

and i have the same results with all of them. at night i can use the same setup

and take the sharpest pics i have ever taken. also, i have used the supaks

with my nikon f5 and it stops the action pretty good. what am i doing wrong, it

doesn't make sense to me why this is happeneing?