jon_robert

October 11, 2010

"lens 50/1.4" Everyone seems to recommend "fast" glass. I am convinced that it is just habitual repetition based on the fact that "fast" glass is expensive and therefore must be better - right?. The equipment bragging lists following peoples posts on some forums I feel supports my claim. No one lists the cheapest stuff out there after their name. (actually I have seen one) Fast glass has perhaps 2 features and maybe 3 that glass that slower glass don't have. (extra stop, maybe better bokeh and maybe better quality construction) My point is do not be convinced needlessly that you "need" fast and expensive lenses. I have 30 years of SLR's under my belt and don't "need" fast glass. In addition I think that a 50mm lens is a terrible lens to be stuck with. (results in about 75mm on digital) A zoom in the range of 18-200 mm is perfect. Err on the side of the 18mm side. If you get a good deal on an 18-105 then it is almost perfect. 18-55 is maybe OK but lacking zoom cropping ability for sporting events. Never the less target the 18mm to start. 18mm is the 28mm of the film days. I even prefer my 12-24mm for indoor get it all in shots. A pair of lenses covering 18-200mm is ideal.

Any DSLR (or SLR) will give you improved photo quality. Look on eBay or Craigslist and get the best deal you can. Don't feel that you need the latest and greatest either because DSLR's can shoot 100,000 shots or so. I am a Nikon user and recommend them. But Canon has a loyal following also. If you feel you might like to play with and wheel and deal with used equipment then go Nikon. Canon abandoned compatibility with older stuff when auto focus was introduced.

You might pick up the deal I describe, DSLR and 2 lenses 18-200mm for $400-600 dollars

October 10, 2010

Your key factor here is shutter speed. You must maintain a shutter speed that can freeze the motion. Therfore you should use shutter speed priority setting of say 60, 50,or 40 Depending on your lens and subject movement speed. The shutter speed is then locked and won't change any slower to result in blur. After that the auto ISO and auto aperture either can compensate for the lighting condition or it is just to dark for both to make up for the locked shutter speed that can not get any slower. Your too dark photo could probably be rescued with lighting shadows adjustments in PP. I use PS Elements 5.0 Perhaps the photos of concerts you refer to were also brightened and lightened with PP (post processing)

October 8, 2010

In layman's terms.

Point and shoot: Lower quality construction compare to SLR and DSLR I have gone through numerous point and shoots where I have never actually broke a SLR or DSLR. They are smaller and more portable. Like for hiking the difficult trails, visiting a zoo with 10,000 children from 2th grade tagging along (seems like 10,000) etc. A new P&S can cost as much of more than a used SLR or DSLR The photo quality is less than a SLR or DSLR Canon seems to dominate the P&S market. (probably for good reasons)

SLR and DSLR: D stands for digital. No "D" and it is a film camera. "S" "L" "R" are the initials of the type of construction they used to make the camera. The camera has a single lens and a mirror that allows you to see exactly what the film is going to see. Some camera have a viewfinder lens off to the side and no where near where the photo taking lens is.When you take the photo, the mirror moves out of the way and the film sees what you were just looking at.

Both use the interchangeable lens concept which is their number one attraction. It is a very desirable feature. And perhaps the main reason for buying one. But at the same time the interchangeable lens cameras also posses higher quality construction and can produce the best results. On most SLR's and DSLR's you can control all settings. So You really can't buy one feature with out the others. It all comes in the same package.

You can get an SLR that is all automatic thus getting the lens/extra quality with out the trouble of having to set numerous settings. The normal SLR, DSLR can also be set to all automatic but has numerous other settings as well. The extra settings can be error potential for those happy with full auto. I had an auto exposure Pentax laying on the table that I just loved. Grab it, manual focus and take the photo of the kid.

If you take a couple dozen photos per year at family gatherings etc that you just want to add to the scrap book like they did years ago but are looking for a little better quality result, then a SLR can be had for a bargain price. If you want to get involved with computer editing of photos and you seem to always be reaching for a camera then DSLR is the better choice. Nikon and Canon dominate the SLR market to the tune of 80% plus. (For good reason)

If you decide on trying film SLR first and then keeping the lenses for a DSLR later keep 2 things in mind. 1) Get an SLR with auto focus to use on the DSLR later. Check to see if it is compatible before buying the SLR used deal. (see below) 2) Nikon is the way to go for SLR now and DSLR later plan. "The Nikon F-mount is one of only two photographic lens mounts (the other being the <a title="Pentax K mount" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pentax_K_mount">Pentax K mount</a>) which were not abandoned by their associated manufacturer upon the introduction of <a title="Autofocus" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autofocus">autofocus</a>, but rather extended to meet new requirements related to <a title="Light meter" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Light_meter">metering</a>, <a title="Autofocus" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Autofocus">autofocus</a>, and <a title="Aperture" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aperture">aperture</a> control." http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikon_F-mount

October 3, 2010

Here is an interesting discusion about ND 10 and welders shades from another forum.

ps I use 10 stops ND i.e. basically everything I own including the polarizer stacked (hand held) when getting a shot almost directly into the brilliant setting sun.

Other post:

My cheap 13 stop ND filter

There is another thread on this but im starting this one because it is slightly different. I read up here about using Welding mask filters as ND filters, then did some looking around on other forums where more people had done it better and was really impressed by the results. I have always wanted to buy a ~10 stop ND filter but couldn't justify the price for something that wouldn't get used very often, so after some messing around i acquired a #11 welding shade from work and got the glaciers to cut it into an octagon shape to fit better on a cheapo deglassed filter. I attached it to the filter with double sided tape and used some more tape to stop any light leaking in or out of behind the filter. The welding glass gives a very strong green cast, but setting custom white balance fixes this surprisingly well. Shooting raw is a good idea too, but in the end I just shot manually until the histograms looked similar as the AV exposures were completely underexposed. The welding glass i got was only about 50mm across so it will only cover lenses with small filter sizes, i used an olympus manual focus lens for these shots, set at f/8 but i'll be buying some bigger glass that will hopefully cover my sigma 10-20mm lens. Here are some examples, they are pretty boring as it is overcast today but it gives an idea on the impact on image quality (which looks minimal to me) I adjusted the images slightly to make the colours similar to each other but they look pretty good without any adjustment other than custom WB. http://forums.overclockers.com.au/showthread.php?t=832990

October 2, 2010

Actually if anyone can specify where I can find my shutter release data I would like to know. I'm just not stumbling onto the location as of yet (D-90)

October 2, 2010

follow up to the D-90 starting over at 10,000. I can find nothing in the manual or the file information in photoshop, or the Opanda exif reader which I downloaded, but I find this on the web "

DCRP Review:

<h1>Nikon D90</h1>

Images are named using the following convention: DSC_####.JPG, where #### is 0001 - 9999. File numbering is maintained ever if you switch or erase memory cards. http://www.dcresource.com/reviews/nikon/d90-review/using

October 2, 2010

I would call and ask someone at Nikon what they think about this. My D-90 which release date is not very old (August 08) has just turned over 10,000 shots. It now reads 2548. I could sell this camera and people would not really know if it has 12,548 or 2548. I think your model release date is July 09. If the count starts over at 10,000 could your camera be 10,189 after 14 months or less? To me that would equate to about 4 weddings at my rate of average 2500 per wedding. Ask if the shutter resets to zero at 10,000 or ? etc.

October 1, 2010

You said "I've found this interesting stuff, didn't know about it before."

Here is another thing worth exploring for close ups. Remove and reverse a lens that you hold tight to the camera since you can't attach it. http://www.earthboundlight.com/phototips/closeup-stacking-reversing.html

September 22, 2010

Incident is the amount of light the sun (or lamp) is putting on an object and every other object anywhere that light is shining on for that matter. Your camera really don't care about this amount of light. Reflective light is the amount of light entering the camera. Your camera cares about this light. You do not need any rules to combine the two to get a correct exposure. All you need is a meter in the camera. Technology has voided the need for the other methods of measuring light as far as the "correct exposure" is concerned. I suggest that your confusion indicates that you do not need an incident light meter. If you did you would know why you need it and how to use it for that purpose. So I say forget the incident meter.

September 18, 2010

You would benefit to web search weather proverbs and lore. http://www.cmos.ca/weatherlore.html

And maybe buy a used book Field guide to the atmosphere. = $4.00 USA about at http://www.amazon.com/Field-Guide-Atmosphere-Peterson/dp/0395976316

The moon and the weather may change together, But a change of the moon, will not change the weather.

---A ring around the sun or moon, means rain or snow coming soon.

---When grass is dry at morning light Look for rain before the night.

---Dew on the grass, rain won't come to pass.

---Sea gull, sea gull, sit on the sand, It's never good weather while you're on the land.

---When sea-gulls fly to land, a storm is at hand.

---Rain before seven, fine before eleven. Evening red and morning grey, two sure signs of one fine day.

---The sudden storm lasts not three hours The sharper the blast, the sooner 'tis past.

---The higher the clouds the better the weather.

---Cold is the night when the stars shine bright.

---Sound travelling far and wide, a stormy day betide.

---When the forest murmurs and the mountain roars, Then close your windows and shut your doors.

---When leaves show their undersides, be very sure that rain betides.

---Chimney smoke descends, our nice weather ends.

---When the night goes to bed with a fever, it will awake with a wet head.

---When stars shine clear and bright, We will have a very cold night.

---When the ditch and pond offend the nose, Then look out for rain and stormy blows.

---Three days rain will empty any sky.

---The farther the sight, the nearer the rain.

---Rain long foretold, long last, Short notice, soon will pass.

---The sharper the blast, the sooner 'tis past.

---If bees stay at home, rain will soon come, If they flay away, fine will be the day.

---The first and last frosts are the worst.

---When clouds look like black smoke a wise man will put on his cloak.

---A rainbow afternoon, Good weather coming soon.

---A rainbow in the morning, is the shepherd's warning A rainbow at night is the shepherd's delight.

---When the chairs squeak, it's of rain they speak.

---Catchy drawer and sticky door, Coming rain will pour and pour.

---The winds of the daytime wrestle and fight, Longer and stronger than those of the night.

---Dust rising in dry weather is a sign of approaching change.

---Sun sets Friday clear as bell, Rain on Monday sure as hell.

---No weather's ill if the wind be still.

---The squeak of the snow will the temperature show.

---When smoke hovers close to the ground, there will be a weather change.

---When down the chimney falls the soot Mud will soon be underfoot.

---When the sun shines while raining, it will rain the same time again tomorrow.

---When the wind blows from the west, fish bite best. When it blows from the east, fish bite least.

---If salt is sticky, And gains in weight; It will rain Before too late.

---Red sky at night, sailor's delight; Red sky in morning, sailor take warning.

---When clouds appear like rocks and towers, The Earth's refreshed by frequent showers.

---When the wind is in the east, 'tis neither good for man nor beast.

---The more cloud types present, the greater the chance of rain or snow.

September 16, 2010

If you got water in it then you can boil it out with a vacuum pump. The vacuum causes water to boil and turn to vapor at room temperature and get sucked out by the pump. Any sheet of heavy plastic can be used to make a "bag" The vacuum will suck seal it. I have done this with watches and cell phones etc.

September 14, 2010

Very simple Walgreens, Target, Woodmans etc. . The only people that can see them are those you send an invite to. It is free as Walgreens etc. hosts your album in hopes that you buy some prints. Actually you do have to buy I think 1 print per year to keep your account active at Walgreens the others I forget.

September 14, 2010

I am going to venture an assessment that you have a lot of vintage "stuff" that is for all practical purposes not worth using. The exception might be the Pentax and the case of lenes. As long as you don't mind the film thing compared to digital.

The Pentax and case of lenses is likely usable but not the current way things are generally done. Today the case of lenses have been replaced by 1, 2 or maybe 3 zoom lenses. And film has taken a back seat to digital.

The way to find out what you have and what it is worth is indeed on the internet. I suggest that you go on eBay and simply type the item in the search line and see what the market activity is. I think you will find little interest in most of it. I have found in times past that Europe paid more for vintage stuff so if you try to sell it on eBay via your own or a friends account be sure to include world wide shipping.

September 13, 2010

I assume you are a good cropper/composer and theefore see only one main issue to consider. Yes shadows/time of day but you have to deal with that as dealt. Let the family decide the setting time of day etc.

The issue is do you or do you not want the back ground in focus. Actually shoot both and then they have choices.

You need to understand your equipment performance. Just go out today or whenever and take test shots. Stick a broom handle in the earth and focus on the broom. Play around with the lenses and apertures to learn how to be in total command the depth of field issue. Your 50mm and 35mm are probably going to be your best DOF/Bokeh lenses http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/bokeh.htm

You have way more than enough equipment to do this.

September 12, 2010

Simply focus on the subject that you want to be in focus and you can pretty much not worry about much else except that the photo is properly exposed. You should have an exposure meter in the camera viewfinder. If that camera you found does not or it is broken then you are in trouble. It is the only way to know if your settings will result in a proper exposure. (other than seeing the finished print)

However if you want to add a few tricks to your bag then you can adjust for depth of field as follows

If you want as much in focus as possible: Like people at 5,6,7,8, feet away then use as small of hole/large of number aperture as possible to get a proper exposure for the given lighting situation. An additional trick here is to add ND or neutral density filters to change the given lighting situation entering the lens so that you can definitely use the smaller hole larger number aperture. I take thousands of photos a year and rarely need ND filters for this purpose. It works the vast majority of the time just to use the smallest hole I can at the time.

If you want as much out of focus as much as possible: Then use the largest hole smallest number of aperture for the given lighting situation that results in a proper exposure. Many use this approach with the much touted "fast lens" The fast lens can be used in low light but perhaps its best quality is the lovely "Bokeh" that they can produce. http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/bokeh.htm

You said "to predict what effect the aperture will have." To explore the concept of depth of field with actual numbers of what is and is not in focus for a given lens then simply analyze the real numbers on a depth of field calculator. Type in depth of field calculator on a search engine. You will find some like this one (at the bottom) : http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/technical/dofcalc.html

Now that we have covered aperture for controlling how much is in focus lets also answer what you asked "Is the aperture something you mostly use for controlling the amount of light"

The answer is yes, but. In addition it also affects how much is in focus. Shutter speed also is "something you mostly use for controlling the amount of light" In addition shutter speed can freeze frame motion.

Besides the obvious of getting a properly exposed photo what choice do you want most? Freeze frame or how much is in focus. To get one the other must be sacrificed. To freeze frame you speed up the shutter speed and need to use a larger hole for less in focus. To get the most in focus you use a smaller hole aperture but now must use a longer shutter speed Both will produce the same exposure with differing depth of field and freeze frame consequences.

September 11, 2010

It is fine. People are used to lousy photos. But your corrected version is a fine improvement. If you want a better wide view then get a 12mm lens and correct it's distortion.

September 11, 2010

This decision is easy. Nikon. Canon and Nikon dominate the used market to the tune that 80% plus are these 2 brands. Thus you have a great selection to choose from for camera, lenses and accesories. Canon old to new compatibility ceased in 1985 "Canon flushed compatibility down the toilet in 1985 when it created a new and completely incompatible system of AF cameras and lenses called EOS. Nothing works together before or after the great divide of 1985." http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/nikon-vs-canon.htm

The Nikon FM2N is probably the best all manual deal you can get. (light meter is an automatic feature of sorts so it is not all manual technically) The Nikon FE2 is probably the best Manual/automatic camera deal you will ever get. I just absolutely loved my FE2. The Nikon FM3a combines the best of both and if you can only buy one body it would be my choice. Other wise I would buy one of each of the first two for a 2 body system if you can afford that. The current prices on ebay are reasonable to cheap for what top of the line quality cameras are going for

September 7, 2010

Definitely not a 12mm as it lacks the tell tale signs. - distortion. Beyond that is is a rather pointless question due to the fact that it has been cropped.

Just about any "normal" lens could have taken this shot. Could have been anywhere between 18-about 130ish and then cropped as it appears now.

September 4, 2010

I am one of those that I guess you might think as giving you a bit of a swat on the behind and will follow up to your new comments / questions. Which is:

"Would I be better off saying no to everyone while I come up with the money for the lenses and beg other photographers to let me help them for free? Please, tell me if you have all the answers. Again, thank you to those of you who were willing to give advice. I really, truly appreciate your kindness."

The answer is : Dance with the one that brought you. Dance with the one that got you there.

Your first post did not revel that you have a style, approach and "thing" that people like. It sounded more like something from nothing. Truly a novice thrust into the big time.

Take what they like and continue to do it.

If you want to get more specific equipment then by all means do so but don't panic. All the fussing and rushing may cause you to lose grasp of your style in all the ruckus.

I do weddings and everything else with a:

Nikon D-50

the Kit 18-105mm

Tokina 12-24mm (my favorite)

Nikon SB-400 flash

Polarizer filter

And I need nothing else. I want nothing else. I don't need a fast lens nor do my customer have the slightest clue what equipment I do or do not have as to details. They just love my results. I dance with what got me there and nothing else. Simple, effective and no trouble. The only time I would become hyper equipment minded is if I started selling for publication. i.e. stock.

As for the chastising tone of some of the replies. I would take them as more like a parent telling the enthusiastic kid (could be a 30 year old kid) Don't do that. I know. don't Rush into doing that thing like you are. Are you sure about this thing? Etc. but when it is all said and done and the kid does it then the parent is right there to take the supporting role.

September 3, 2010

You just have to live with depth of field realities of a camera lenses. Use this calculator to explore thouroghly the limitations of depth of field.

http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/technical/dofcalc.html

September 2, 2010

First of all I would like to know how you can not be a photographer one day and be swamped with business the next. I have to assume that these are all free shoots.

Secondly why in the world would you want to chuck the very awesome D-90? And announce the SLOW-ness of the kit lens if you are really new to this game and don't know much? Perhaps you read the techno geek raves too much. i.e the newest most expensive must be better. Believe me the latest and greatest will not produce great photos. You will! Or won't.

First of all you can do all the great work you want with the D-90 and kit lens. All you need to add is a Tokina 12-24mm and a flash. You could do quite well with the humble SB-400.

Total $ = 4-$600.00 if you buy a used 12-24.

As for the Horses it is either they turn up the lights, you use flash or forget it. I have a folder full of the Dancing Horses Theater photos that are basically useless. The place was too dark.

If you insist on working on the edge of total failure then go ahead and get yourself a fast lens. It is like saying I want a boat with lots of horsepower because I like to ride right on up to Niagara Falls and escape just before I go over. It is much better to not need the fast lens but occasionally than to routinely need it more than not. Save your money and get the lighting in order to satisfy the "contract" to get photos. The only thing a fast lens might be irreplaceable for is a particular bokeh that one may produce.

September 2, 2010

Your only hope is the polarizer filter. Here is a link to a video tutorial demonstrating exactly that in great detail - canyons - haze - polarizer

http://www.dslrtips.com/workshops/How_to_use_polarizing_filters/reduce_haze_deep_blue_sky.shtml

September 1, 2010

There are 2 observations here.

1 To avoid red colored subjects do a remove color cast in Photoshop Elements 5.0 or equivalent for whatever program you use.

2. This is a classic application of rear curtain flash principle. The camera will meter and expose for the ambiant lighting and then fire the flash at the end to freeze frame and properly expose the foreground subjects. With traditional flash the background tends to disappear into darkness. Rear curtain flash gives you the result you see in your sample photos.

See "Rear-Curtain Sync" on pg 71 of your D90 manual. And then try it out.

August 31, 2010

I have the D5000's daddy the D90 which is basically the same inside. I suspect that you might have your fingers over the focus assist lamp. I can think of no other reason that it would be giving you fits. Make sure the focus assist lamp issue is OK.

You have a great camera and it is not to much for you. No one ever complains that they have too much quality. You can easily survive every shot for the next 10 years using nothing but auto setting.

August 31, 2010

Probably not. Even the best equipment in the hands of 30 year pros results in vast quantities of rejected photos. (A recent digital Photo Magazine had a short bio: 30 year pro/actually published 2000 photos - doing the math = for full time work only 1.28 photos per week were deemed the best. Yes I know there is a lot more to the story.) Let me be the one to risk deflating the balloon before much hope and dream is invested. On the other hand maybe you are one of the few that can make it. So don't think I am trying to crush you and beat you up. I just don't like dishonesty like those kinds of adds that say "make 5,10, $15,000 a month and never leave your couch" Your camera is certainly capable of taking awesome photos but the stock photo industry is difficult.

There is a very simple way for me to demonstrate/ you experience what I say. Microstock is a simple way for you to submit photos and get you feet wet. Be prepared to have most if not all of your photos rejected. Furthermore be prepared to see none sold of the few that are accepted. You basically have to take photos of what people are buying. For example photos of young attractive business attired people shaking hands and exchanging papers. A photo that could represent anywhere any time with any company. If someone can make money by using your photo to help generate the sale than you might sell it. Or niches like food etc. http://microstockinsider.com/guides/analysing-what-sells-microstock http://microstockinsider.com/guides/people-photos-are-they-good-sellers-or-not

But don't just take my word for it. Try Microstock it is easy but at the same time it is a brutal business with a lot of rejection. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Microstock_photography http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fotolia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IStockPhoto

Good luck.

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Posts posted by jon_robert