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jkelly04

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Posts posted by jkelly04

  1. A good user M3 and either a Summicron or Summitar should come in well under $1000. You might want to take a look at KEH.com. They have a 60 day unrestricted return policy, and they typically grade their gear conservatively. You can try the equipment, and if you find it is not for you, all it will cost is the shipping.

     

    Right now they've got several "bargain" M3 bodies for $460 to $599. These cameras will more than likely be in very serviceable condition. They also have several "bargain" grade Summicrons for between $325 and $399.

     

    Oh, and learn to shoot meterless. You'll never go back.

  2. L. David Tomei,

     

    No, I did not use a filter or hood. Like I said, this was my test roll, and I wanted to push the len's performance. The roll was shot this Saturday in late afternoon on a very sunny day, so flare conditions were at a maximum. Still, I did not expect this much flare, as half of the frames display it, especially the shots with the sun at a tangent to the lens.

     

    Ronald Moravec,

     

    I did as you suggested, and there does appear to be a slight rainbow haze on one of the inner elements. I'll bet this is the culprit. I'll probably send the lens to DAG or Sherry to clean out. Still, when it does not flare, I like the performance of this lens.<div>00LTzu-36947484.jpg.f4c71db31cf0ce452fb4cacb027f5feb.jpg</div>

  3. I just bought a late (1956)collapsible Summicron 50mm from KEH. As expected,

    in the first test roll, the images are very sharp, but the flare is out of

    control. See example image below. The glass is perfect, and there is no haze

    that I can see. I also have a late Summitar, which hardly ever flares. Even

    my Summar doesn't flare this bad.

     

    Can someone tell me whether the collapsible Summicrons were especially prone

    to flare? I suppose a hood is the best remedy. Thanks for any information.<div>00LThe-36940184.JPG.cb6cdd2df99154b1d8bcad0ea8547b09.JPG</div>

  4. I've made several purchases from EU countries and Russia without a problem so far. Shipping costs from Europe to the US do not have to be outrageous, although it is obviously more expensive. There is one particular European vendor on Ebay who frequenly has nice Leica stuff, but I refuse to pay his customary $49 shipping.
  5. I just started within the past few months developing film after a 25 year hiatus. So far, I've developed about a dozen rolls, and I'm just getting back to the point where I can successfully process a whole 36 exposure roll without ruining any negs. To make the learning process as simple as possible, I use Kodak D76 full strength and follow the film manufacturer's quides (Kodak, Ilford and Fuji) for development times, agitation, washing etc. My goal is to get to a point of consistent results before I begin to experiment with other recipes and techniques.
  6. Frederic, I wear glasses and use a Leitz SBOOI finder with my IIIa, and I haven't scratched my glasses yet. It's possible to do so if you place your glasses against the rear of the finder, but the image is so big and bright that this isn't necessary. It's not as bad as an M3 finder, and for that I just use one of Aki Asahi's eyeglass patches.
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